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Showroom 2 Dof Seatmover with Cytron MD30C

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by FGR FPV, Jan 22, 2021.

  1. FGR FPV

    FGR FPV New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2021
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    Location:
    Sarstedt, Germany
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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    Hello there,

    I'm completely new to this forum as a member, but I've been watching it for a long time, dreaming of my own motionsim.
    Now, finally, the time has come and I'm starting to build one!

    I've designed a custom rig wich will also carry 4 bassshakers and a windsim. Since it'll be my second selfmade rig, I know what I have to keep an eye on concidering dimensions, so that part works out.

    What's kind of new to me is the softwarepart, I have some questions regarding how it behaves under specific conditions. But first, I'm going to show what my rig is all about:

    SimRig V3.jpg

    This is a rendering, showing the new 8020 profile rig with some steelparts I designed.
    I'm using a Sunrise 80ZYT165 Motor wich together with the wormdrive will create around 63 Nm.
    I want to drive them with two Cytron MD30C motor drivers.
    I have bought two 500W power supplys, one for each motordriver, to keep things seperated.
    Since I don't want to use a battery for regenerative breaking, I've bought two shunt regulators, wich the team of cytron told me to do.
    Instead of potentiometers, wich will degrade over time, I'm using hall sensors, wich should work the same way from the arduino point of view.

    I'm still waiting for parts, so except the baseframe nothing is built yet, but I have a question before even starting, because that could make things easier.

    I've read a lot about SMC3 and also found out already, that I need a modified version for the MD30C, because otherwise the motor would behave different in one direction. In that same thread somebody wrote, it is mandatory to start Simtools first, and then fire up the system. Also, you should turn the system off before closing Simtools, because otherwise the motors would ignore the hall sensors input and just spin, wich would destroy my rig, as the levers cannot do a full rotation.
    But what if my pc crashes? What if the software crashes?
    From a logica point of view, wouldn't the arduino just send a 0 if it does not get any input from Simtools? Wouldn't the system just stop, if the pc is turned off? Because if not, if the system will really just spin endlessly instead of stopping, when no signal is detected, then this would be the wrong solution for me...
    Can anybody clarify that maybe? Also, what if the arduino breaks or a cable of the potentiometer will come loose? Will SMC3 stop the motors if one of the pots or the pc won't give an accepted signal?

    I think that's it for now, I'll post some more details when starting to build. If I've forgot anything, please tell me, I'll do my best to provide every information needed!
    Thank you!
  2. Ads Master

    Ads Master

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  3. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

    Joined:
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    Innovative tech specialist for NGOs
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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    Nice render.

    @Blame73 used the MD30C, so would be in the best position to give advice on their use.
    • Like Like x 1
  4. ChubbyWeasel

    ChubbyWeasel New Member

    Joined:
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    Occupation:
    Retired
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    USA
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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    I like the specs and price on that motor. I’m also planning to use the MD30C but you’re ahead of me.
  5. FGR FPV

    FGR FPV New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2021
    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Sarstedt, Germany
    Balance:
    63Coins
    Ratings:
    +8 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    I've progressed a bit after my last post.
    The base from aluminium profiles is nearly done, just waiting for the sheet metal parts wich a friend of mine does for me:
    Base Rig.jpeg
    Excuse the not so cleaned up room, I just moved here and there's way too much stuff for a small apartement...

    I've printed some gimmics that will help me keep the rig clean and do some cablemanagement:
    Cable Management.jpeg USB Hub Holder.jpeg
    Cables for my motion sim are mostly done. The motors, the e-stop and the sensors are ready to go, I've also printed a hull for the sensor cable, so it does not break too easy:
    E-Stop.jpeg Sensor.jpeg
    Sensor with plug.jpg
    Motor Wired.jpeg
    I've designed a case for the gearing, wich will keep lube inside and dust outside.
    The gearing increases one rotation of the motor to three rotations of the sensor. I'm only using around 60-80 degrees of the motor, with the gearing I can make use of the sensors high resolution. The case and the gearing looks like this:
    Gearing installed.jpg Printed Gearbox.jpeg
    It works perfectly from the first tests, I have to verify that later though.
    I've tested the sensor with an arduino and the SMC3 desktop app, that part works like it should.

    I already have two T-Amp S150 amps and 4 Reckhorn Bs200i bassshakers laying around. The rendering in post one is outdated, mounting brackets for the shakers have been added to the seatbase and the pedals.

    The next few days I'll build a case for all the electronics, so I can start to wire the controlbox.
    This will include:

    - 2x 500W 24V power supplys
    - 2x Cytron MD30c motordrivers
    - 2x Shunt regulator for those drivers (polulu 26V)
    - 1x Arduino uno R3 with a sensor shield for easy and clean wiring
    - 2x 24V to 12V Stepdown, one for the arduino, one for the fans
    - 2x 92mm Noctua fans for cooling the motordrivers
    - 1x 230V Relais for the e-stop and power switch

    The sensors will be connected to the box via GX12 3 pin connectors.
    For the motors I'm using XT60 plugs known from fpv-racing.
    I've purchased a usb-B extension cable for the arduino, wich will be screwed to the box.
    The e-stop will be connected with a powercon plug wich is known in pa technology. It's impossible to touch both pins, that's why I chose this, for safety.

    The box will be cnc milled from dibond wich is an aluminium composite material.

    I'll try to do some wiring diagrams to upload here soon, I personally don't use any for myself.

    I hope the rubber feet will work as intended, keep the ffb and vibrations away from my neighbours but not from me...

    I'm still waiting for the sheet metal parts, that could take a while. I cannot wait to finally drive this beast and try motion in ACC!
    • Creative Creative x 2
    • Like Like x 1
  6. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

    Joined:
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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    very skillful rendering!
    what CAD software are you using?

    could you share a link for Sunrise 80ZYT165 Motor spec and price?

    Keep going man!
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. FGR FPV

    FGR FPV New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2021
    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Sarstedt, Germany
    Balance:
    63Coins
    Ratings:
    +8 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    Thank you!
    I'm using Autodesk Inventor for modelling and drawing and Keyshot for my renderings. Works great!

    I got that motor from a local reseller, over here in germany. But this is the link to this motor, where you can order it directly from the factory.

    It's rated at about 440W, outputs 50RPM max, the technical drawings differ between 59 and 63 Nm, I'm not sure wich one is correct but both numbers should be more than enough (I hope).

    https://m.made-in-china.com/product...ushed-DC-Gear-Motor-846702315.html#ampViewAll
    • Informative Informative x 1
  8. FGR FPV

    FGR FPV New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2021
    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Sarstedt, Germany
    Balance:
    63Coins
    Ratings:
    +8 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    A few days have passed and it's time for the next update!
    The control box is now finished and works as intended.
    While building I noticed a few things I would change, that is:
    1. Space for the E-Stop Relais. This one takes more place as expected, due to the thick cables and cable shoes.
    2. routing the USB cable. Having USB next to 230V can cause issues with signals due to induction. I would place the usb to the other side of the case, but routing it over the power supplies works just fine, so no need to redo the case.
    3. Plugs. I would use different plugs for the left and right motor. If just I'm using this it's fine because I know wich motor goes to wich port, but it can be connected the wrong way around, wich would be a desaster because one motor direction ist flipped, wich would cause the other motor to spin endless when connected to the wrong port. (powering the motor only leads to the feedback going away from the setpoint with the wrong port)
    4. Leave place for connectorrails (don't know the correct word) so I can split a single cable to two, with the cable shoes. Now I have soldered those cables instead of using shoes, wich works, but does not look great.

    But enough of that, this is how it looks:

    The Outside:

    Gehäuse Front.jpg Gehäuse Heck.jpg Gehäuse Seite.jpg
    Gehäuse Oben.jpg Gehäuse Unten.jpg

    The inside:

    Gehäuse Innen 2.jpg

    I've tested the motors already, one has a lot of play (deadzone needs to be 1), the other one has basically zero play.
    They're pretty silent, the power supplies are louder as expected though, but still not as loud as my CSW V2.

    I'm still waiting for the metal parts, no updats on that side, except they have been cutted already and will be bend the next days. Only welding and painting will be left then, so hopefully I'll be able to finish this thing next weekend.
    • Like Like x 2
    • Winner Winner x 1
  9. FGR FPV

    FGR FPV New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2021
    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Sarstedt, Germany
    Balance:
    63Coins
    Ratings:
    +8 / 0 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    There have been some complications with manufacturing of the sheet metal parts, but they'll hopefully be done next week.

    In the meantime, here's a video of one motor running a sine wave:



    It's very silent, I cannot wait to see, feel (and hear) it in action.

    I'm currently thinking about adding dampeners, because many people told me that will smooth out the experience. Has anybody here any tips on that?
    • Like Like x 1