2 DOF Seat Mover - GIB

Thanks mate, I have read through that manual and found that part.
You are correct, I am using the 600PBS power supplies. I have changed the psu over to see if that makes a difference. No luck. I can't see any evidence of any short anywhere on the controller. No stray strands either.
I have also cleared all the settings from that jrk multiple times. Unfortunately that did not fix it.
I have set up the first jrk without any problems and then went on to do the second one.
I'm not sure if it will help you but here are the settings I put into the controller:

Maybe I need to get this one jrk replaced...

Just my 2cents... are you able to re-apply Firmware 1.4 just to fully reset all the logic??

@noorbeast - This is how it is wired. The wires for the Pots are: AUX (Red) on 1, FB (White) on 2 and GND (black) on 3. This is the pot http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/potentiometers/1642661/






Again, even without pot and motor connected, the issue remains. I have also tried a different usb cable.

@Archie - worth a shot too. I will look at doing that.

send an email to pololu about it

Will do.

Have you tried connecting pot's red wire to 5V pin instead AUX?

I actually never used AUX, don't know what it does, it was always 5V, GND, FB..

EDIT: Nevermind, I've missed your sentence where you said you're having same problems without the pot..

Just FYI:
The AUX line is an output that is generally high whenever the jrk has power. The line will only go low for two reasons:
1. If the jrk’s microcontroller goes to sleep (because there is no VIN supply and the device has entered USB suspend mode), the pin is tri-stated and pulled low through a resistor.
2. If the Detect disconnect with AUX option is enabled for either the feedback or the input, then the jrk will drive AUX low for about 150 μs each PID period to check if the feedback and/or analog inputs are disconnected
So with the AUX you can check, if a pot is connected or not.
Selecting the Detect disconnect with AUX option activates an extra feature that allows the jrk to detect if the FB pin becomes disconnected from the analog voltage input device or shorted to 5 V. This option is intended for use in analog voltage feedback mode with a potentiometer connected between AUX and ground. When the option is selected, the jrk will periodically drive the AUX pin low, verifying that this results in a 0 V signal at FB. If the line does not respond as expected the Feedback disconnect error will occur.

Just a question and I may have missed it?
Why do you have extra wires soldered on? like I have circled?
The green, black, yellow, and red?
I can see the alligator clip wires would be for the pot

I used the AUX pin because that's what was recommended in the Jrk manual I believe. I have also tried it connecting to the +5V instead.
The soldered on wires are for a status LED's and a reset switch on the dash board. Just like @Archie has done here - http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/jrk-reset-switch.6642/

I have contacted pololu about the problem and am now waiting to hear back.

Hey @GIB SimRacing - While this won't solve your issue, something I did on my JRK to ensure nothing shorts at the terminal block is put the GND in the middle.

So on the JRK you have VIN, GND, A, B - The motors don't care, so I made A my motor's GND so that I don't get any short from the terminal blocks when everything is neutral.

Of course the motors go both ways, so the potential is always there during use, but in initial power up, the chance is minimised / zero.

See Pic:

@noorbeast - I agree with you. I will get those isolated.

@Archie - I also thought about that initially, but then like you said, it will change while operating anyway.

Still waiting to see if this can be solved. I am in contact with pololu so hopefully this can get sorted without the need for a new Jrk. I'm not holding my breath though.

In the mean time, more building.

I started putting things back together.







This is how the motors ended up getting mounted. I welded the lever directly to the axle. Safes having to rely on nuts holding things together. I know it's more work if I have to replace parts as I have to make them again, but I think it's worth it.



The potentiometer is mounted directly to the end of the axle. Where the shaft of the pot goes into the axle it is held in place with a grub screw.

While I had everything apart, I changed the Screen positions slightly. So I thought I better go for a monitor test fit...
It ended up exactly as planned!

@noorbeast - I'm looking forward to recording that video!
There are still a few things to do before it will be "finished". But at least it looks like a simulator again at this stage.

I still have to get the problem Jrk sorted so I can start setting things up motion wise. But it looks like I may need to get a new one...

What size fuses do you use in your 12V circuit? I am thinking to wire a 30A fuse in between the PSU and Jrk. I know the Jrk is only rated for 12A continuous but has a peak current rating of 30A. But then again, the motor has a stall current of 32A...what is your experience?
I just want to be extra cautious now, since I ran into problems with the motor control side straight away before even getting to use the sim.

Excited!!!

...to say the least!