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2dof to 3dof DIY Seat mover

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Nick Moxley, Mar 3, 2014.

  1. eaorobbie

    eaorobbie Well-Known Member SimTools Developer Gold Contributor

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    Yep agree I would use the lathe to bore a hole in for the pot attachment and I use 1.6 ali to hold my pots to the motor, it flexes if it needs too.

    On connection pots dont short the 5V and GND together , you will not like the result.
    Using the same pot (hall effect) as picture above (same as Daves and mine) connect 5v from jrk to +5v on pot and GND on Jrk to GND on pot and the FB on the Jrk to the Vout on the pot. In total the pot has 3 wire going from it to the jrk with none shorting together. Leave all the other pins on the Jrks disconnected.

    In total you should only have 7 wires connected to each Jrk.

    And yes the connecting of the fan is correct , just run it off the powersupply most only draw 50mAmps which is nothing to worry about and yes the leds in the fan normally are internally connected to the 12v lines in the fan body, as they have advised above.
  2. bsft

    bsft

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    for the OCD , ADHD in us, heres a clearer pic of jrk wire up
    jrk to wiper wireup fixed.JPG
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  3. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    when i said short the 2 wires, I dont mean 5v to Ground, I mean there's 2 wires on a JST connector. 2 pins on the 5v and ground.......following ? lol

    so Dont use both pins on the 5v and ground on the JRK ? Just one pin ?
  4. eaorobbie

    eaorobbie Well-Known Member SimTools Developer Gold Contributor

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    Sorry my misunderstanding, read short and went ahh no!!! , lol.
    That is correct should only have 3 wires connected to 3 pins only.
    Any way just use the three pins labeled FB, +5v, GND for attaching the pot to.
  5. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    No problem Robbie im sure with the PS pin shorting question's and what not it was a bit confusing. :blush

    Talked to Pololu today and the tech was Very pleasant to deal with and explained what i needed to know in detail. No problem with using Both Ground and 5v pins together......like this

    [​IMG]
  6. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, 3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    Axle bolts drilled for the Pots, Buddy's easily excitable when it comes to projects like this so when i just showed up with the bolts he was forced to set up the lathe (took him 30 secs lol) and we went ahead and got the closest bit size to the Pots, #3 bit. I Dont have the pots yet to test, but measuring the hole seems up to snuff. I'll prolly use a dab of shoo goo to hold it in place if its got an wiggle which it technically shouldn't.
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  7. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    So Shifter mounting, Seat or Frame ? Im personally thinking Frame.
  8. bsft

    bsft

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    usually with 6 speed h pattern, seat near knees like a real car. sequential, up near the wheel. Choice is yours, move it around and test a bit.
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  9. Historiker

    Historiker Dramamine Adict Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    I too have been kicking this one over. I like having my h-pattern mounted to the seat as Dave suggested but I have been wondering if I should fabricate separate sequential shifter to mount next to the steering wheel. My DIY h-pattern is big and bulky but it does double duty as both H and sequential very well.

    There are so many nice setups available now though, I might give up my DIY set and buy the new Fanatec shifter. Hard to beat the feel of my DIY shifter though, it really feels like a real car shifter.

    Sorry, rambled a little off topic there.
  10. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Its a CSS so i sorta have to find an in between happy place. Problem is that it was rather tucked up beside and touching the seat before and now with the seat moving im sure ill have to give it more clearance which will change where it sits....Also effecting my mount tray, but I'll have to find work around for all that in the end anyways.


    Historiker, the CSS is an AMAZING piece of Sim gear imo. WELL worth the $$ and wait time. Again placement is key so ill just have to mess around
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    Last edited: Mar 19, 2014
  11. Historiker

    Historiker Dramamine Adict Gold Contributor

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    I think you are talking to me and not Rob, so I am going to respond, lol.

    I agree, the CSS really looks amazing and I have been very happy with my Elite pedals and Porsche 911 wheel as well. Does the CSS have it's own USB port? The only thing that I do not like is the PS2 plug system that Fanatec uses.
  12. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My bad Historiker. Unfortunately No the Fana does not have a USB, Typical Fana style. :confused:
  13. prodigy

    prodigy Burning revs

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    I can answer this one, there is separate USB adapter for CSS which can be buyed for extra money, from Fanatec. A bit lame but considering how pricey Fanatec is, it's nothing suprising. I have Fanatec stuff myself, but not the shifter, I'm using Thrustmasters TH8RS shifter, pretty good comparing to Logitecs. Also sequential and H-shift in one, good value for the price.

    Here is some discussion CSS vs TH8RS
    http://insidesimracing.tv/forums/topic/10648-fanatec-css-sq-vs-thrustmaster-th8rs/
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  14. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Seat, CV joint and lever's are all at the welder's bring prepped....just waiting on the Pots, heatsinks and Rod ends now. Getting Oh soo close.
    • Like Like x 1
  15. eaorobbie

    eaorobbie Well-Known Member SimTools Developer Gold Contributor

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    Sounding close indeed, I was able to retain the original mount for my gear shifter from transfering it from a static unit to motion.
    I like my shifter in the same place as I reach for it naturally, but most games due to the competion online , l use the flappy's. So having it as a sequential change near the steering wheel seems more logic.
  16. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    I would like to try the more SQ style mounting but have a button box and tablet on the right hand side already along with the mouse tray, running out of room on the RHS. lol
  17. Historiker

    Historiker Dramamine Adict Gold Contributor

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    Can you share your button box layout with us? I have been thinking about fabricating one for a while. Especially a "sorry" button ;)
  18. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    I didn't built it myself. that's still a future project for me to dive into. Before the Fana gear i was into the G27 with SRW S1 attached. Over the years i acquired a few more S1's and was able to salvage one of the busted circuit boards and use it as a Basic button box. Also having the 12 way rotary is pretty handy when playing SRW. I also left the throttle paddle on to act as a Handbrake depending on what game.

    [​IMG]


    the Guts of a S1 and G27

    http://s150.photobucket.com/user/davidmoxley123/library/SRW-S1 wheel MOD?sort=4&page=1
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  19. Historiker

    Historiker Dramamine Adict Gold Contributor

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    Thanks for sharing that. Very good repurposing of materials.

    I guess what I was asking was what inputs to you think are needed the most in racing? A button for "woops" which sends a macro apologizing for bumping that guy off the track and into the guard rail further eroding his confidence resulting in his quitting iRacing becoming addicted to jelly donuts with his wife leaving him for the dentist whom she met while taking him in to have his teeth pulled when they rotted away. You know, things like that :D

    I am new to online racing and wonder what inputs should I be setting up to use during races?

    Thanks,

    David
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  20. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    Hi David,
    For rFactor, the strict minimum is "pit stop" and "speed limitor".

    It would be a good idea to share the answer to your good question: I'm also curious about this :)