6 DOF from scratch

Sorry Pierre
there is a very big misunderstanding due to the translation with deepl.com
The german word "sympatisch" means "likeable" or "nice"
I hope you dont kick me

That´s funny:
translate "sympatisch" to english => "sympathetic"
translate "sympathetic" to german => "mitleid"
translate "mitleid" to english => "compassion"

Never trust the weatherman and all translation websites !!!

Hey, no worry. I had understand what you meant. In french, it's Sympatique. So, it was easy for me to get.
I make errors all the time in english.
The only word I know in german is Kaput. We use it all the time here in Quebec.
"Ton char est Kaput" = Your car is not in working order anymore.

I have absolutely no idea what you are talking about.
What does "Kaputt" even mean?

Oh, wait....
You don't mean by chance these short interruptions in the challenge to build a working rig?
Sometimes (especially today) it looks like this:

But that is not "Kaputt", it´s just a small deformation and more work for the 3d printer. *rofl*
... and of course a new "Herausforderung" ;o)

Greetings to Quebec

We certainly use the word 'Kaput', with the same meaning.

What? You mean my life was based on a lie! I've been told since my childhood that Kaput means broken in German.

I need to do a research before I finish this post...

I am confused... Wikipedia:
The German word kaputt ("destroyed"), from which derives the English colloquialism 'kaput' or 'caput,' meaning done, or finished, is not related to this word. The origin of the German word, and consequently the English words, is a borrowing from the French: être capot, lit.

First confusion: You were lying to me. You knew what it meaned. You were making a joke about you're poor rig (that is not Kaput, yet) that you pushed beyond its limit, right? I've been there too. Glad that you have a good attitude about it. Build, Break, Repare, Build...

Second confusion: Kaput comes from a French expression? WTF! Être capot. Which means that you are broke, ruined. I had never heard of that before.

Life is full of surprises.

Like I said in another thread, I received my eye tracking module from Pimax.



Right from the start: Don't buy that thing. It's a piece of scrap.

The installation paper is a joke. It basicaly says : install the eyes trackers and follow instruction on screen.
You have to STICK the eyes trackers ON the lens. YES, STICK.
The tracker attach to support by magnet that barely hold them up. Cheap.
It introduces reflection.
It reduces the FOV.
It introduces lots of distortion at lens edges.
It introduced delay in the display of parts of the environment (seemed ok once loaded). The Pimax beta Pitool is required. Maybe that's the problem.
The New foam is thicker and less conftable for me.
I calibrated it. It has a delay of 100-200ms. (GTX 1060) and it's not precise.
I have no idea how it works beside calibration. No further instruction.
I tested it with Elite dangerous. No change (beside loading delay). I have no idea what to do with it so far.
I hate it so far.




Listen to that video for a descriptive example. I had similar results.


As for the rest. I did a new calibration for Elite Dangerous using my new knowledge from calibrating Dirt rally. I am not quite satisfied. Sometimes, the rig is choppy. Really hard time to get a smooth result.

A little update that is not really one.

I have installed my KDMAS comfort kit for my Pimax, but I had to remove the eye tracking.



It looks cool. The eye tracking was incompatible with the adaptor that you have to install for the head wide strap. Of course, Pimax were not aware of this and I had to explain it to them. Am I the only person on earth with a 8k and an eye tracking? They say they are looking for a solution. What about refund?



Pierre.

The end of an era.

After almost a full year that my rig was down, I decided last year to tear it down. First the controls.


Then the seat and stairs. Unfortunately, we had to let go our cat and put her down as she was sick.



Then the carbon structure.


Then the actuators.



Note to myself: Never put electronic in a cramped place a ground level. Once again, my wires were mostly cooked to dust by the current (reason for the failure of 2 actuators).



Remove the electronics and clean the base.



The good news are that almost another year later, I have moved almost all my stuff to my other house (so I can get back my music studio) and I am starting new experimentations about simulation and rigs. I made this little miniature rig during Christmas vacation, putting my 3D printer back to life. I am testing a rig in the style of SeatTime. I should start a new thread soon.




See Ya!

Nice. Good to see your getting back into it. I have my rig currently set to 300mm stroke due to the fixed screens and its silky smooth/fast (16bit data/servo encoders). Remember that if you are now only using 3 motors they need to be plenty strong to support your weight+rig+inertia. All the best, have fun .

hello guys, I am on page 10, it will take time but good source of inspiration having the same e30-150 engine, but I only want to use 4dof, but in real ibt2 not copy them, but I am having difficulty for the 20v 1000w power supplies, and the house source is old, I am in the process of redoing a line in 5x4mm2 63amp 30ma, for 4500w let's hope that it will be enough.. can't wait to read everything with the links it takes a lot of time and effort reflection.. great job in any case

I ended up using three LED Power supply (24v, 12.5A).
I think the thread is a good read as it is full of good information.
After, you could check out my new thread where I rebuild it differently with the same parts (almost).

Lalancelot's Rigs Experimentations

And in this video, I explain the power management of the motors. It is the same than my last rig.



I never had any issue with the motors. They are great.
Good luck with your build.
Pierre.

hi,
you say :
I ended up using three LED Power supply (24v, 12.5A).
it's not sufficient ?
for the same 750w motors ? 12.5A ? not sur with ibt2 no battery i think?

24V 40A 1000W ?? that ?

I saw it really well, but my English isn't great so I don't understand much.

3 power supply * 12.5A = 37.5A.

I bought my power supplies at a local store. Make a research on amazon for a DEL Power Supply 24 V , 12.5 A.

I had 6 motors that could drive around 10A each. 60Amps! This is why I used batteries in case of a surges. I had only one issue with that rig: the wires were melting at the Sabertooth inputs. No problem with the motors.

I did run one actuator on only one power supply on my new rig and it was stopping, the arduino was getting confuse. I guess it was doing a surge on the power line. As soon as I put all 3 power supplies with the batteries, all worked fine.

Pierre.

ha yes… it gets hot lol…. but I thought you had the e30-150 as an engine since you were talking about it, because these engines are much more than 10a, they must not be the same, sacred installation all the same!
Cordialy,
Stef.

They are e30-150 ampflow. I put all the details in the first post:

6 DOF from scratch

And all the calculations in this one:

6 DOF from scratch

Pierre.

Yes thx, i m on the page 12,
what I remember is the motor will then draw like 125 amps (at 24V). So electrical power will be 3000W. Nothing converted into mech power, but everything converted into thermal power. A big heater (and smoke generator after a few secs) arfff not good !

Because if the motor blocks or when changing direction, it will automatically increase and demand intensity. of and power
we are far from 12.5a, I admit that I am a little lost, but hey I still have more than 30 pages to read, and the sabert 2x60a I am not counting on it, with the batteries I might as well go on from srt80.. I don't want to end up being electrocuted or my house catching fire, it would be a shame to die...

therefore changes of direction and power peaks require for 4 actuators, 12000w on a 6kva installation which trips if more than 6000w is requested simultaneously.

"what I remember is the motor will then draw like 125 amps (at 24V). So electrical power will be 3000W. "

That is if the motor is at full power and that it cannot turn. It wont be the case. Do not worry about that. With the weight of a person an four motors, they will be always be strong enough to turn. So they will transform the Watts into mechanical power (and not heat).

Peaks of 10 to 13A per motor is a good assumption, and they will rarely do it all at the same time.

Pierre.

rhoooo thank you very much, that’s the info I wanted!! on the other hand I ask myself a question given that with the weight of the chassis the arm tends to go in and come back down. So we find ourselves at the stop or at the limit switches so how does it work to restart them you have to go up by hand to remove the limit switch.?

Yes, every time I reached the limit switch, I had to move the actuator and reset everything (computer, arduino).
It was a pain in the butt.

yes it's rather annoying that, I have to take care of the endstops too, but I have to see how to put a block underneath, to think about it then...