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Question DIY FFB Wheel Motors?

Discussion in 'DIY peripherals' started by Jonatha.F, Mar 23, 2020.

  1. Sieben

    Sieben Active Member

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    I know that high pitch sound is not you matter, but conducted a test with about 24 volts and one BTS. By lowering the pwm to 2.8Khz In MMOS, and lowering Max Force to 40% I get such result. One BTS do not go in protection.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    So it seem to be working fine. The only thing I changed was the frequency. By all the same psu's in 16 khz it was off.
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2020
  2. Jonatha.F

    Jonatha.F New Member

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    Graphs look good to me but still, I want 16Khz PWM so that it is quiet. I will buy 2 BTS but hopefully only use one. Anyways, I looked into the possibilities of running a 2 motor setup with 2 smaller motors (2x MY6812) but to me, it still looks like the my1020 would give me better performance and keep cooler. Do you also think so? Maybe the fidelity would be better on 2 small motors? BTW I don't want to talk money here but does 200euro for all the electronics and motor for base+pulleys and belt seem reasonable? Also I found someone on Cousin of OSW that stated that I would need more than 12v 30amp 360w PSU wich doddynco said would be enough, He suggested 12v 80amp or 12w 1000w which doesn't make sense to me and is against what you told me aswell. Should I go with bigger PSU to be safe?
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2020
  3. Sieben

    Sieben Active Member

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    Can't say anything about two MY6812. As you see yourself My1020 is aproved already and seems to be a good choice. Talk some more with those who made wheels on this motors. What they say.

    does 200 euro for all the electronics and motor for base+pulleys and belt seem reasonable?


    Depends.

    Also I found someone on Cousin of OSW that stated that I would need more than 12v 30 amp 360w PSU which doddynco said would be enough, He suggested 12v 80amp or 12w 1000w which doesn't make sense to me and is against what you told me aswell. Should I go with bigger PSU to be safe?

    Look. Stall current draw depends on the voltage and winding resistance. I=E/R. The motor itself. I will talk again in example with MY1025 that gotta have, calculated ~34/40A stall torque draw under 12v. And ~85 Amp draw with 24 Volts. Don't forget to double that from that on a spikes in rotation direction changes, but kind of may neglect that here for now. As well that you will not race with this set ups with this motor for long. It overheats quickly. You can have this draws with Arduino and Max Gain 100 Constant 100%. If you would have even 1000+ amps PSU with 12v the motor will not take more than those figures, (~40a draw with 12v) depending on the voltage applied. BUT, what am I talking about, that if you are in MMOS, that have halfed current draw compared to Arduino, but not affecting the final voltage amount to the motor at the same time, so that will have those 12 volts on max signals levels still. So why run then for up till 100 amps PSU, for it's comfortable work? I guess Italians do not take that into account, and thought that they have the motor specs current draw too with MY1020. And wanna limit that too by means of a lowered voltages, leaving more space for PSU. Also as if motor will take more amps from PSU with lowered voltages, for the same amount of torque to be produced, as it need current not voltage, but all again MMOS do have less current draw vs arduino programs in full settings. So that all appeared nothing more then just an overkill specs for PSU. Which is good, but there might be no such an obligate rush for it with MMOS and that motors. I may be wrong in terms of that 1020 motors exploitations conditions and figures, but having experiments with 1025 I at least kind of having such a picture.


    Also if you would pay attention to the Nm tests I made with 12v33a PSu with EMC, you can see that I obtained ~2NM difference in that test with 4%Constant vs 100% Constant. 5Nm vs 7Nm.
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2020
  4. Fzonta

    Fzonta New Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    i use stm32 with mmos + my1020 + 3bts + 100a server power supply, it’s very hot, 45min and it’s very hot with 3 fans.
    I have these settings for + - 9 months.
  5. Zahid

    Zahid New Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Im planing to use a arduino Leonardo. But in future im planing to shift to direct drive wheel. So what can do for now so that i dont lose a lot money or can use those parts later?
  6. Faisal Nyan

    Faisal Nyan Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Did you figure out the overheating problem? I will be building with the same specs, with a 48v 1000w My1020
  7. LuisG

    LuisG New Member

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    What is this Manus' MY1020 thread you are refering to? Couldnt find on the forum...
  8. Sieben

    Sieben Active Member

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    • Like Like x 1
  9. evolaco

    evolaco Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF
    I use a my1020 1000w 36v feed with 12v and 82A. I use 4 ibt2 and get 9nm in lock directly. IMG_20200312_221709.jpg
    • Like Like x 1
  10. elnino

    elnino Active Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Depends what you call hot - MY1020 48v @ 12v here. 3 X IBT and EMC Developments firmware (which seemed to run cooler than MMOS). Runs 100% at about 75-80A but it can't sustain that, the windings will melt. At about 2/3 power for about 1hr of racing my motor is somewhere between very warm and hot. I would estimate 45-55 deg C. I have a 120mm fan on the back drawing air through but it could be better. Direction matters too!

    I have also found that if i finish a race and immediately turn off the wheel via eStop, thus turning off the fan, it gets massive heat soak - The motor will rise at least 20deg. This is because all the heat is in the windings/armature and not the motor body. It then radiates out due to no air flow. This highlights the need for good air flow. It might even help just removing the mesh screen from the holes.

    Ideally, i would enlarge the ~10mm vent holes out to about 15 to get better flow but for the moment it's fine. Maybe next time i have it apart...
    • Like Like x 1