6 DOF from scratch

If you're specifically trying to get more clearance where a bolt attaches to a rod end, you might also look for "rod end misalignment bushings". These slip into the ball and smoothly continue the rounded surface so that the ball can rotate even farther, plus they offset the bolt head or nuts farther from the ball joint.

Yes, the duty cost to pass the border is a killer. I'm used to that. This is probably why they charge so much. They want us to buy locally. So, it Canadian Tire time!

@dododge I really like those. I even have a company name. If I can get a normal shipping cost, that would be great.

Google-searching "heim joint mis-alignment spacer site:ca" will also find some options. amazon.ca has a few models with free or prime shipping, though the pricing varies quite a lot and most of them are barely in stock. tmrcustoms apparently machines them in-house so they have a lot of size options (and a Canada on-line store); no idea about their shipping rates, though.

Thanks @dododge , I will check those because I went to the Canadian Tire. After talking to the auto part guy, after he finally understood, after he went back store, after he came back, after I saw he did not understood, after an hour of search, I got nothing at the end. What a waste of precious time.

But... I got the POWER! tu tu tu tuu tuu tuu...



Soldering those wires is quite a bitch, the kill switch needs to be added, but I have 25.05 Volts!




I checked with my actuator for movement spacing, and I think it's clear for all wide movement. I also need to add a wood top to cover all of high current parts. It's coming along. Next, the relays and limit switches and soon, we shale start the production of actuators.

Small update. I ordered some heim joint mis-alignment spacer, I should get them in a few days.

I did some shopping for some recommended protection gears. I also got smaller wire to connect the motors, a few screws and square brackets for wood assembly.



I did a cover for the high current parts of the build. I will put more fan to keep an air flow under it.



You can admire my fancy wood work!



Then the kill switch to break the circuit between the batteries if needed.



I also printed all parts for a new actuator. It's a lot easier when they are already designed. I am not yet into the relays, but I am starting to put a layout on the base. It's starting to get crowded on it.

You've said you checked for movement spacing but should double check this particular mount point. From my point of view that cover is so close that it's possible that the actuator will crush into batteries cover (and batteries themselves) in certain platform positions.

Thanks for your concerns @lromaniuk , but I had the intention of setting the actuators this way. This is why I moved the batteries on that side (hence, the little space where you point out) to give more space to the actuator on the other side. This is also why I put the kill switch there, so it is easier to access. I am still concern the batteries may be in the way. This is why I will make the platform a bit bigger so the actuators point outside.

Are you sure ? it looks really close there

To tell you the true, no, I am not sure. But it looks like the better option. If you look at this picture, this is where I want to put it (green square pointed by the yellow arrow). I'll put it as far as I can from the batteries, but I am still concern that they may interfere in the movement (red arrows). If it is the case, I will have to come up with an other solution. I still got room and I can remove part of the cover. I will adjust from the actuator movement. For now, I hope for the best. It still has a decent range of movement as for now. We will see.

Quick question to all Actuator makers out there.

How long did you let the main shaft out of the actuator when this one is at the bottom, at the lowest point of its travel?

Ermm I don't really know if I get your question but I let mine go as far is safe for it to stop at the limit switches

No, I'm not saying it right.

The shaft that is comming out of the actuator (carbon tube), when the actuator is at the bottom limit switch, how long does it stick out of the actuator.

An image says a thousand words:

ahhhhh

I'd say mine sticks out about 60mm ish

I think as much as you need/want.
Too long and you get your structure too high.
As @SilentChill said, 50 or 60mm is enough, just to not touch any other part.

I finally got to my relay, but I found out they were not as strong as I thought. Here they are:

http://www.littelfuse.com/products/...lers-and-plug-in-relays/iso-power-relays.aspx

I took those because they were rated at 70A, but only for 12v. I will be running at 24v, which does cut the current in half, but also the rating to 35A. So, I am baffle. Does the rating of 35A at 24V will be enough? Or should I really get something closer to 70A at 24V?

Christmas again!



Cables for my printer, gift from Hictop. And my spacers for the joints. The funny thing here is that they come in pairs. If you order 12, you get 24 spacers. I probably could have save a few bucks here. Oh well, its part of the many mistakes I made in this build.



Talking of mistakes, I found out that I did not buy a USB booster, but a Ethernet dispatcher more than one year ago. How brilliant. Got back to the store to get what I needed.



Mistakes... I asked to have a little relief to what goes into my carbon tubes. But with this relief, it won't go into my bushing.



So I went back to my friend, so he could remove a bit of it until it goes through the bushing. I took the time to take picture of the device that created my actuators. There is also the white milling at the end of his shop. I should get back my parts next week.



Still, I was able to connect my actuator to my power supply:



Following the flow for an actuator, we see my computer connected to the usb booster that will dispatch to the 3 arduinos.



The usb cable goes to the arduino. The arduino also has 3 inputs (orange, orange, white) from the actuator that are the connection to the potentiometer. To the far right, I use the psu 12 volt to go through the limite switch and power the relay. In the final build, I will use an external 5 volt into the limit that will drive a single relay that will provide the 12v to all 6 high power relays. Only 5v will go through all the limit switches and the panic button, all connected in series. From the arduino, it goes to the Saberthoot via 2 small cable. The Saberthoot takes the power from the psu's and the batteries to transfer to the motor. One of the lead to the motor goes through that high power relay. So if the limit switches series circuit falls open, all will stop. Nothing is fixed yet, as I may change some wires to move parts to their best positions.



I did not test it much or fiddle with the parameters, but it follows the curves quite well.





With everything working nicely, I am working on the next actuator. Next will be the platform for the seat, made out wood. I am still missing 2 arduinos and 2 saberthoot. It's slowly getting into shape, even reusing some rods from my first actuator made out of wood. :O

can i Highly suggest you get your print bed adhesion solved vs using Brims ? I can only Imagine how tedious it must be to clean up all those parts of the brim layer, Ideally your parts shouldn't be lifting off the bed so harsh as to need such large brims or ANY at all unless its a very unique part or tiny part...... What's your printer and build platform ? What do you use for filaments ?

I think i used a brim once, lol hated it and never again.

Brim is not what bugs me the most. It is support that I have to add for many parts of the.. parts. Like the limite switches box, the inner of the ball screw part. It adds supports in holes that I don't really want.

At the moment, I don't mind it to much. As long as I have working parts. But I consider every advise. Thanks.

My parts are visual thing's so i guess im picky for the perfect First layer and subsequent print quality in general *One tiny mishap and my parts are usually not usable due to the part not being 100% perfect.

What Slicer are you using ? S3D you can Automatically set supports, then go in and remove specific Supports you dont want or need. Ive become used to making my own Custom supports and Very Finely tuning the settings to get a Perfect bridge layer or that initial layer on the supports.

For supports too, you should be able to add a solid base layer if your having any adhesion issues with supports.