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Starting a classical 2DOF Arduino/Sabertooth/24V DC

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by vthinsel, Feb 26, 2015.

  1. vthinsel

    vthinsel Well-Known Member

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    Humm. Good spot. Looks like the chicken and egg problem. it should go through a charger instead of directly the battery maybe. Better idea: switch to sabertooh 2*32 :roll
    Any hints on the resistor to use to sink the current ? ohm/watt ?
    Thanks.
  2. vthinsel

    vthinsel Well-Known Member

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    After having spent some weeks on the arduino stuff, I'm back on the motion rig topic. I made a first draft using sketchup based on @RacingMat rig , using 40x20 metal. Something like that:
    [​IMG]

    I then realized I needed something adjustable for the kids :p
    Making the seat asjustable would be too much complicated for the gravity center, so it is the steering wheel that will need to move. So I found out the pieces must go ont into the other. I'm thinking of going for a 30x30 2mm thick with a 25*25 going into it and secured with welded nuts and bolts. This leaves 1mm to slide them one into the other. This will require the structure to be absolutely parallel. Any good advice to make sure it is parallel when ssembling ?
    I'll post more pictures soon, once I have converted the current structure to 30x30 and 25x25
  3. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    • Informative Informative x 1
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2015
  4. Wanegain

    Wanegain Active Member

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    :thumbs
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  5. vthinsel

    vthinsel Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I was thinking of using the seat rails I have on my static rig as they will become useless as the seat will be on fixed mounts. Same idea :p for the pedals in addition to the global adjustement using the profiles

    here is an attempt:
    [​IMG]

    I was wondering on the angle which I set to 60° on this design. Does it sound reasonsable ? more ? less ?
  6. vthinsel

    vthinsel Well-Known Member

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    Here is the final "draft"
    [​IMG]

    Should be enough adjustable.
    Will get the metal tomorrow at FIC (french shop for metal). 6m long pieces :eek: (luckily, they can cut it on site)
  7. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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  8. vthinsel

    vthinsel Well-Known Member

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    Wonderfull. Thanks. I'll make sure I'm in line with those models.
  9. vthinsel

    vthinsel Well-Known Member

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    I'm still alive, just a bit busy with other projects (my wife broke entirely the bathroom.....no comment)
    [​IMG] :rolleyes:
    So I was finally able to get the metal bits:
    [​IMG]
    18 meters total (for 30 euros): 6m of 30x30 , 6m of 25x25, 6m of 20x40
    I'll cut them this week-end and check with my friend for a welding teaching day :p
    Oh ! I also ordered some hall effect sensors, like the ones thanos is using on his AMC board. I like the contact-less thing with this approach.
    • Like Like x 2
  10. vthinsel

    vthinsel Well-Known Member

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    Here is the final design for the moving part:

    mrig_004.PNG
    As I has exhausted the 6m of 30x30, I will use some 40x20 for the seat mount. Should be enough ?
    The 500mm sliding into 450mm should provide enough range for steering wheel height. If needed I will shorten the 500mm after trying, in case I can't get low enough.
    I'll adjust the 560mm depending on my seat mountand the seat angle of the back, but I should be pretty close with 560mm.
    I attach the current sketchup file. If you have comments to make, make them now : it will be too late tomorrow :D

    Attached Files:

  11. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    Keep doing first what your wife wants!
    When I see your bathroom, I prefer not to fancy what she could do when she's upset! :mad:
    • Like Like x 1
  12. vthinsel

    vthinsel Well-Known Member

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    Still alive, and bathroom has not moved an inch..... :rolleyes:
    But I started to weld the rig
    [​IMG]
    At least I see now something starting. I jumped on it and it looks solid but I'm not very happy with my soldering skills, so I'll try again with my "teacher" when he comes back from his holidays
    I'll put all pieces together, then he will review/correct the suspicious solders. Just to make sure and double-sure it doesn't break under rough tracks :grin
    • Like Like x 1
  13. Pit

    Pit - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Gold Contributor

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    learning by doing - I cannot say it better. When the rig is finished, your skill level has grown up for sure (in some cases too late :p ).
    • Agree Agree x 2
  14. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    • Informative Informative x 2
    Last edited: May 22, 2015
  15. vthinsel

    vthinsel Well-Known Member

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    Yep, an inverter. Together with an automatic helmet. I plan to use this for house work as well.
    This long week end I hope I Will weld a bit the sliding parts. Parallelism Will ne my moto...
  16. Atlas974

    Atlas974 old school

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    Really good design, i love it, metal tubes and the way youre going to adjust pedals, :thumbs
  17. Wanegain

    Wanegain Active Member

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    Wow prices for welding are very attractive o_O!
    It makes me want to invest :p
  18. vthinsel

    vthinsel Well-Known Member

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    Some welding today, under a heavy sun :p
    [​IMG]
    Max/min should accomodate adults & kids with no problems, even wih very long legs :D
    I also found a cheap gimbal nearby (the garge guy has dozens..... for future projects I guess)
    I hope I will have some time this week-end to weld the two mounts. Parallelism will be the key here.
    Last edited: May 29, 2015
  19. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    If you are using a CV joint you may need to want to consider a cross brace with heim joint ends between the top and bottom frame to prevent unwanted torsional twist.
  20. vthinsel

    vthinsel Well-Known Member

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    • Old Old x 1