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Start of a Joyrider Based Simulator

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by SimonUK, Jul 13, 2009.

  1. SimonUK

    SimonUK Member

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    Hi Guys,

    This is the start of a project thread for my Joyrider design simulator. The design of the simulator is based heavily on Thanos's Joyrider but will be made out of much studier parts. I will also be using Thanos's AVR and H-brdige to drive the motors.

    Obviously building the Joyrider out of studier/heavier parts means that I might need a more powerfull H-bridge / motor combination. (I'm hoping R-eng's HPMhb-150A (High powered H-bridge) will be ready in time :)). I will be using a 24 monitor and G25 wheel/pedals as the simulator will be mainly used for driving games.


    I spent most of Sunday building the frame. Here are some pics of the progress so far 8)

    caster.jpg


    frame1.jpg

    frame2.jpg

    Everything is fully adjustable at this stage so the height and width of the simulator can be tweaked as it progresses.

    The next step is to start work on the inner frame which will include the seat and control mounts. Have been searching ebay for a cheap bucket seat :).

    I've started creating a shopping lists of parts for the AVR which I will order from Farnell soon.

    So what do you guys think so far? Does anyone have any comments or suggestions?

    Cheers,
    Simon
  2. bill72pa

    bill72pa New Member

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    Looks good so far. Any updates yet?
  3. tronicgr

    tronicgr

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    Hi Simon,

    You need more sideways support... Doesn't look enough to me!!!

    And its good idea to start building the inner cockpit frame around the bucket seat dimensions. Also try to balance things not only in horizontal but also in vertical manner, since with rotation you will get more mass offset...!

    Thanos
  4. SimonUK

    SimonUK Member

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    Hi Guys,

    The simulator is progressing well and I have even made a start on the AVR and H-bridge electronics.

    Here you can see I have started work on the inner frame. The angle of the foot support and screen support will need changing and also the seat is only resting in place at the moment.
    31072009124 (Large).jpg
    In response to your question Thanos, the sideways support is more than enough. The base is very very solid as the metal work is so strong!


    Here is the almost complete AVR electronics and the H-bridge which is ready to be etched.
    31072009131 (Large).jpg
    Its my first time making PCB's at home and the've turned out quite well using the Iron on method.
    I'm hoping the DSMhb will be powerful enough to drive some 180Watt motors that I have my eye on.


    Simon
  5. SimonUK

    SimonUK Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Update

    Bit of a progress update for you guys. Have recently had some time to work on the simulator a bit more and things are coming along nicely!

    Thanos's AMC and Hbridge have been fulled assembled and tested.
    Here is the box for the electronics:
    004.jpg
    And inside... 002.jpg


    Both motor mounts have been constructed. For the Roll axis motor I have mounted it differently to Thanos's original Joyrider. This arrangement seems to work well although at the extremes of the motor travel the tension in the belt becomes looser and the motor starts to slip. I'm currently working on a fix for this. Does anyone have any other ideas?
    008.jpg

    Here are some more pictures:
    009.jpg
    010.jpg
    007.jpg

    Next thing to do is to mount the pedals and steering wheel and then I can find the perfect balance point for the simulator.

    Simon
  6. Frakk

    Frakk Active Member

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    To get rid of the belt slack, use some sort of adjustable tensioner.

    Attached Files:

    • x.jpg
      x.jpg
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  7. Guppie5220

    Guppie5220 New Member

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    Frakks idea is still going through my mind even though the bungie cords are working for me. Have you tried either one yet? pm me and I can email you detailed images if you need them.

    mario
  8. SimonUK

    SimonUK Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, 3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    Today I had my first proper ride in the simulator! I was having issues with the belt slipping under quick changes of direction so I have decided to get rid of the belts and use chains intead 8) . The results are much better now.

    I think I now have a problem with Thano's H-bridge circuit. One of the motor outputs gives nice smooth movements, but the other output causes the motor to be very jerky and overshoot. What could be causing this?

    There is still lots of fine tuning to go but here is a quick video so far:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ukltGtmsP8


    Thanks for the suggestions on fixing the slack in the belt. I'm using a horizontal bungee cord to keep the chain tight and it seems to be working well!

    Simon
    • Like Like x 1
  9. SimonUK

    SimonUK Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Well I have fixed the motor problem. It turns out the AMC had forgotten the KP settings for the motors and one was set to 3 while the other was set to 25! I'm not sure how this happened but it works nicely now.

    I'll work on getting another video up when I've sorted out my x-sim profile settings.

    Simon
  10. egoexpress

    egoexpress Active Member

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    Good job!

    Looking forward to a video with improved kp settings.

    regards
  11. SimonUK

    SimonUK Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, 3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    Just a small update on the simulator.

    I've attached some pictures of the new chain setup. This has greatly improved the performance of the sim as there is absolutely no belt slippage now :).

    IMG_2073.JPG


    Here you can see my bungy chain tentioner:
    IMG_2072.JPG


    I've also strengthened the top mount for the pitch motor assembly:
    IMG_2069.JPG


    Bank motor with hosepipe connection to potentiometer :)
    IMG_2067.JPG


    And finally a new video of the sim in action running Live For Speed:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OV63GigxdiA
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  12. egoexpress

    egoexpress Active Member

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    Thanks for the update!

    But unfortunatly the motion profile in the video is horrible. Do you know how to gather the max values for effects?
    You have to clear the max value, then check the auto max detectionbox, then go on track, and perform a full throttle start, and after that a full brake. The important thing is, to make no collision during this process, as it would falsify the correct max values. After that, uncheck the auto max detection box. Now you have the max value for accelleration braking.
    ( repeat the same thing with lateral and vertical effects later)
    I'd suppose to start with longitudial (acceleration/brake) effects only at first, and add more effects one by one then.
    When the gas pedal is fully pressed, your seat should be go back almost the full movement range, and when pressing the brake hardly, the seat should incline almost fully forward.

    Try this please, and post another video update here, to see if you got it right.

    Regards
  13. SimonUK

    SimonUK Member

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    Thanks for replying. For the max and min values I've just been picking numbers at random that felt OK. I'll give it a try using the auto max detection and post back my findings.
  14. robervalllll

    robervalllll New Member

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    SimonUK quite liked your simulator, good idea to use bicycle chains, does not have the slip, the engines also seem quite strong, the simulator itself is pretty fast, congratulations.
  15. SimonUK

    SimonUK Member

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    Egoexpress,

    I have just tried your method of using the auto set max. However, now the seat hardly moves back at all. I seem to get a larger range of movements when I choose a much lower value than the auto max setting chooses for me.

    I've had more luck with a profile I have made for Dirt 2. It feels much more realistic than LFS and Rfactor.

    Heres a video:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXQx8Dui7RI
  16. bvillersjr

    bvillersjr Active Member

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    Make sure that you don't crash when recording the maximum values or they will be so high that there is almost no movement.
  17. madmajor

    madmajor New Member

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    Hi Simon.

    Great Motion Sim you have there.
    How much stronger than an average wipermotors are the motors you used in your setup?
  18. SimonUK

    SimonUK Member

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    Bernard, I made sure I did not crash and just accelerated flat out and then braked to a stop in a straight line.

    Madmajor, the motors are 180Watts, 12V DC and are used for golf trollys. They seem to draw about 10amps when changing directions quickly. I'm not sure how this compares to a wiper motor.
  19. bvillersjr

    bvillersjr Active Member

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  20. av8tr

    av8tr New Member

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    Nice Work,

    Looks great, what kind or motors did u use, looks like they were meant to have the pulleys attached. Also could u show a closeup of how the Pots were attached to the motor ?

    Thanx, Looks great, av8tr