[wDOCw Project 2dof ] Convert existing static simulator

Hi again Guys, really i 'm start my project from here http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/help-to-choice-a-linear-actuator-for-2dof.5777/ when looking for information about a possible actuator to use...
well thanks to the ready support of @eaorobbie @bsft but also other I Decided to proceed using the worm gear motors, certainly in comparison to linear Actuators type SCN5 / 6 on the projectile is more complicated but the end Result (if positive: P) can give great satisfaction, resulting from the cost savings and the fun that you try to build the system of movement.
I'm a very newbie and this is the first attempt of a dinamic, I have homebuilt my static simulator about three years ago, and I want to make the changes necessary to move the seat , then in the future add an extra degree of movement for the loss of traction.
I retrieved (thanks to the previous post) the material required for the electronic \ mechanics
2x Worm Gear motors
2x pololu jrk 12v12
2 power supply
many potentiometer and many cables....
now I have to decide the structural modifications of the simulator.
I have many ideas about it but not a single project and defined. I therefore ask for advice and help to the whole community to proceed.

I show you how it's my current sim.


built by me and inspired by the sim Zalem ....

Now continuing on Zalem style I would like to add the parts that I miss being inspired by these pieces ....







......this later in a second moment for traction loss.






ok this is my idea and I will use this topic to ask for help when I get stuck on a problem and I can not find the solution in other existing topic, thanks to all

are you wanting to move seat only?
full frame including wheel and pedals with screen static (still)?
or move everything?

I want move only seat for now, classic seatmover, maybe later add a traction loss effect with an extra dof that move the rear......
Now i need make a solution like this and go to adapt my postation.

Ok seat mover is one balance point, full frame is another balance point. Drift frame is not too difficult and guys like @Historiker and @Nick Moxley are putting drift frames underneath.

hi guys! I tried to connect the wires before building the structure, i hope that have made a correct connection, sorry for the photo , I know that are chaotic and poor quality ...






i also have some question to ask you and the problem to be solved:

1 - can put a termal pad to fix little cooler in the jrk instead of thermal paste?

2- I could not find a good cv joint, where can I look for? you have any links to suggest?

3- i have 2 type of pot, many 5k and many 10k, which is the best to use?

thermal pad and heatsink just fine
drive shaft as opposed to CV joint is better,
Look up any second hand rear wheel driveshaft - tail shaft and get it cut to size.
I take it you are going to fit the pots to the back of the motor shaft somehow? 5k pot will do.

ok i have take a nice break, but now i work hard, I decided to leave the project traction loss for now and focus me on the motion, one step at a time ... : P
Today I started welding the joint ....


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Ok guys today I made good progress, I have almost completed the structure as you see from the photos...

I have completed the seat, created the levers, (7.2 cm center to center) and arranged some fastening points for the seat in case of weight balance relative to the fulcrum


............but I have a doubt in anticipation of setting the values of min and max in jrk control panel (edit)..
I' ve try to move the gear motor gear manually, it is very hard and i fear to broke it..... so I opened below, practiced a groove and made a hole on the bottom now I can easily rotate the gear motor with a screwdriver ......

I did right? what other solution?

UP

............but I have a doubt in anticipation of setting the values of min and max in jrk control panel (edit)..
I' ve try to move the gear motor gear manually, it is very hard and i fear to broke it..... so I opened below, practiced a groove and made a hole on the bottom now I can easily rotate the gear motor with a screwdriver ......

i have put feedback pot in the rear of motor with a drill. ther is other way to move it now manually for set the min and max in jrk panel? this fix work but it's slow.
thank's

Im sure @bsft can help but he is darn under so its 4am there

ah, you have the higher torque gearboxes.
It was a bitch to set up on my friends frame as well.
For the feedback, drill and tap for a 6mm bolt to go into the rear, then use a coupler to attach that to the pot shaft.
Set the pot up on a bracket on the motor gear box, so the pot reads directly off the motor shaft.
with setting the feedback, once I fitted a lever, I unscrewed the gearbox from the motor and turned it but hand to the most level position I could. Then I screwed it back on.
Next step there was no 12v power on, just the usb cable power
Setting feedback, with the pot connected with its shaft to the gearbox, I opened the utility program, went to feedback tab, click "reset to full range" , clicked apply, the I unscrewed the nut holding the shaft and using a permanent marker texta, I rotated the pot body around and I looked in the graph, (top right hand corner) , in fact I double clicked it to make it bigger. I turned the pot till it started to show a reading of the line. Once I found the 50% mark, I put a mark of texta on the motor housing and a mark on the pot body so I knew where the centre was, from that point I turned it slowly one way till I found the near 80% mark, put a texta line, then turned it the other way till I found the 20% mark in the graph, marked it again with a texta. Then I moved the pot back to the centre.
Now I know where I need to set my max min.
With the pot shaft still loose and no 12v power, I clicked the "learn" button and slowly rotated the pot body one way till I got to my first texta mark, click "ok" as that was my "max" settings, then rotated the pot body the other way till I got to my minimum mark, clicked "ok" , then apply settings.
Then I rotated the pot body back to my centre spot and tightened the nut holding the shaft body.
I then went to the MOTOR tab and set in max accell 100, max duty 100, max duty while feedback out of range 100, current calibration 130. This makes the motor move slowly so once you test, you dont risk breaking anything because you have a chance to stop the motor.
Then I applied 12v power and went to the INPUT tab of utility and ticked the box "automatically set target", clicked run motor, and I moved the slider to see if the motor moves up and down from centre.
If it does something like spin right around and stop, try changing motor direction and or feedback direction in the appropriate tabs in utility program.
To get the actual centre position more spot on, I wrote the current feedback numbers on paper, then I manually change the feedback numbers up or down 50 at a time , applied settings, moved motor in input tab slider, and did this several times till I got it about spot on.

Once you get the motor moving right, then you can go back to PID and set basic on 4/4 ,0/3 ,4/4 and you can wind other motor settings up to 400 . After that, you can later work with PID , just P and D , leave I at 0/3 . and also with motor settings if need be.

See how that goes.
Dave.

Dave tnx so much! with your post I was able to move and control motors, manually for now, with pot in my hand, because (tell me if it is normal) if i fix pot (centre position) in the motor and click "run motor" lever make an half movement and stop . they are normal? he go to max (or min) and stop because out feedback range set? ...but after need replace ad recentre pot manually or not run in reverse......
....anyway the build is made, now i need to test and verify if the geometry can be ok and later paint and make a good electrical box.
i am actually happy to be able to make the right connections and see start to move something, but they are also fearful for subsequent end tunig engine.

after setting the min and max range of feedback potentiometers in jrk panel, and PID set and motor tab as u suggested (what is the right value for Max current (A)?) later can i go into simtool program and to start tuning?

Thank again for support

...a pair of shot of last progress and video of first time move!

Max current set at 0 (unlimited)
With setting the feedback, normally with the pot shaft attached to the motor, we usually just move the lever up, click "learn" , click "set max position" (I think), then move the lever down, click "set min", apply settings.
With yours, you need to set the lever at centre and move the pot body to set the feedback point instead.
The only video I have to show what I mean, the pots were on the frame, not the motor, so put the pots on the motor, but it gives you an idea of whats going on

and testing the running of the motor in the silder.

If they are single turn 270 deg turn pots which they look like, once you set the feedback, just be careful when making sure the motor direction is moving right, in case it tries to go the other way, you could break a pot.
If the feedback is set correctly and the motors move up and down in the slider fine with no overshooting, THEN, you can turn up the power in motor tab. Settings like 400 max duty, 400 max accel, 400 max duty while feedback is out of range is good.
Once all that is satisfied, then go into the simtools program and set up the jrks.
http://www.xsimulator.net/community...-set-up-simtools-jrks-and-write-profiles.112/

OOooK Guys , work finished at 90 %, et it work !!!!!
i have to thank @bsft for full support and your guide to setup Simtools is fantastic and really easy for beginners some me.
SIMTOOLS is an AWESOME program very intuitive and absolutely not complex ! thanks to all that have program this tools really

ok but now i want show you that i have made, yhe work is partially completed, but need only a bit aesthetic touch and some fine tuning setting in motor and\or in simtool setup.

i have configured 2 dof (surge \sway) and work well , i can now feel the acceleration and g lateral force, that combined with Oculus rift dk2 is a completely experience in my Assetto corsa esperience, very great and incredible sensation

A lot of photo and 1 video where i test dof output with simtool, not in game but manually with mouse slide cursor.
A video in game maybe later..







Ok now i have some question to optimize tuning motors, i have set in jrk application some @bsft as suggested

now the question is : if i want go to increase a little bit performance what i can touch?
which one valor i can go to increase progressively to try have better performance? In PID or in motor tab?

I also noticed that in simtools tab axis assignements I had set to 100 values of surge and sway otherwise did not feel enough and was not exploited the range min \ max feedback set, the PDF guides created by @bsft says to set values starting from 20% to these numbers but I do not perceive enough movement....
Finally I would like to know if I can add some other dof "heave and yaw" or better to leave surge \ sway only.

thanks all again! and ever excuse my bad translation

What is your Max duty and Accel currently at ? With the Surge, Did you Try a Very Small # in the tuning center before going to 100% in the Axis assignment ? You shouldn't need to Use 100% Especially with surge if you have a proper # in the tuning center.

Do you understand how the P and the D all relate to each other ? P is the Power the JRK's are sending to the motor to Get to its next known position, D is the Brakes, when it reached said position it needs to stop the motor so that is the D, I as i have been explained has to do with Oscillation if u have any to deal with. Ive personally never ran Any I.

Ok, try max accell and max duty at 500, max duty while feedback out of range 500
current calibration 130
max current 0 (unlimited)
PID period 20ms
Integral limit 10000
With PID, Leave I alone and at 0
Using the slider bar in INPUT tab of utility only, no simtools, this is how its done.
Set P, I , D to 0 in the decimals, apply settings, now start with P only and work up in increments of 0.1 , aplly settings, go to INPUT tab, tick the box "automatically set target", click run motor and either slide the bar fast from side to side or use the home/end buttons to do max, min motor throwing.
Work up in 0.1, so next would be 0.2, then 0.3, etc. Until you find when you move the slider bar, the motor twitches like a bugger. Once you get that, halve that figure you have in P. So if its say 0.7 , you would put in 0.35.
Now dont worry if when you click apply settings, that the number is not exactly what you typed in.
Once the P number is halved like I said, go to D and work up in increments of 0.1 like you did with P. Apply settings, go to INPUT tab, and run motor and move the slider back and forth fast until the motor lever stops overshooting its stop point and starts to be very solid in stopping.
So for example, you may have a final figures of P 0.3672 , and D of 0.8231 for example. Do not use those figures, I am using an example of what may be the final numbers.
I have found when I do put in say 0.8, apply settings, it gives me 0.79999 or something like that.

With setting forces, you can add as many as you like, but as I say in the guide, work with each one till it feels more or less right.
On my rig, I run surge, sway, heave, pitch and roll. 5 forces.
I work with each one till its feels more or less ok, then after all that , I mix them all up and fine tune if needed.
Yes some of my percentages end up higher or lower in axis assignments, but the base to start at is 20 % for each one.

See how that goes.
Dave.

Ok, tnx again guys, now i can try to find a very fine tuning in jrk motors and ingame software .....
@bsft i have already set max current at 0 in jrk motor tab, but the jrk become very hot and go in error he switch off/on very fastly.....then i have set it at 23.010 mA ( this is the power that the motors need to work) and work well .....I really tried this without fan on ..... I have to try again? it is important to set the value to 0?
Ps : in my experiment i have already broke 5 pot.... Hihihi.... now i have buy a big pack of 10 potentiomenter and no have fear

Flex coupler's are your Friend.

you have tried WITHOUT the fans on?
Thats one reason.
Did you put a heatsink on the big chip like we told you to and put a fan over it to cool it?
If you set the current to 23 amps, yes it still will work, however, the moment you make the profile harsh, the JRK will go into a max current error and stop.
Heatsink on big chip and fan cooling a MUST!
If the rest of us can run ridiculous amperage through them using the heatsink/fan, then theres no problem with that setup and unlimited current.