Sort of DIY

I bought a used (broken) DOF reality P3 cheap. As I only fly helicopters and small GA planes in MSFS, I found the backlash and cogging to be very jarring and totally immersion breaking. DR's putting together a kit like I'm building, but it will be some time before it's available for my model and the cost will be pretty high compared to what I paid for the machine. So I decided to mod it myself. I've mentioned this rig in a couple other thread but thought I should move it here and document the procedure. I want to start with a question though.
I purchased the 5:1 planetary gearboxes prior to doing the math. I even cut one to fit the motor. Was a serious learning curve regarding precision aluminum machining, but I now have the proper measuring tools and knowledge to do it; so i can't begrudge the $65 I spent on the box if it proves to be useless for my needs.
I can send the other gearbox back and get 3:1 boxes if the 5:1 stop-to-stop time is not acceptable. NOTE: I'm older with a not-so-great back, so I don't want to be slung all over the place.
I'm using the original motors and mounting point on the rig that DOF Reality used so I know the geometry works.
Here's my math.

Motor speed = 3000 RPM = 50 RPS
1605 ball screw = 5mm per/rotation
Total length of ballscrew travel = 70mm

5:1 GEARBOX: 50 RPS / 5 = 10 RPS = 1.4 seconds stop-to-stop.
3:1 GEARBOX: 50 RPS / 3 = 16.67 RPS = 0.839 seconds stop-to-stop.

Total distance of actuator arm travel = 92mm. This is 90 degrees of total rotation, using the existing DR actuator arm, with the seat link located in the last hole.

What do you guys think? Keep the 5:1 gearboxes so I only have to cut one more, or get the 3:1 gearboxes?

Gearbox input housing removed,

Mounted,

cut,

Finished,

Fitted,

It's alive(ish)...

Hello Noorbeast.
The unit isn't bolted down yet. Hence the bungee cord. I was just testing for clearance before I drill the holes in the the base and mount. I'm going out of town this weekend so I won't get to play with it, but I couldn't wait to see if it would move. Your right about the settings. There's a FB group dedicated to modding the DR machines. I have a request in for SMC3 and SRS settings from folks that have the manufacturer's SFU/planetary motors. I still have to put it through it's paces before I commit to making the second one. Cogging and backlash look pretty much nil even with the standard settings, but the speed needs to be increased. Still haven't ruled out the 3:1 planetary in place of the 5:1 that's on it. I hope to have it bolted in place and put some weight on it next week.