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smc3 help and sim tools

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Building Q&A / FAQ' started by Che Franklin, Dec 31, 2019.

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  1. Che Franklin

    Che Franklin im alot brighter than i look.. Gold Contributor

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    ahhh i swapped im now using 1 pwr suppl for 1 and 1pwr for the other ive got plenty of power available ive got a few 24v that i could use a step-down on.. idk.. but honestly dude for the amount of money i paid for sim tools and gold whatever i expect WAY more help than this ive been sat here all day waiting for a response

    x-other is looking pretty good but do i want re learn all shite again HUHUHUHU soo close yet sooooo far
  2. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    I feel your frustration but no money goes to anyone that's attempting to help you unless its Yobuddy or RaceRay. One is an expert on Simtools and the other on website management but not on every damned thing. If you can't handle the frustrations that can come with DIY then maybe try commercial instead. Also if you want to be frustrated even further and to no end then go ahead and try the other software if you wish ;).
  3. Che Franklin

    Che Franklin im alot brighter than i look.. Gold Contributor

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    Deadzone This creates a hysteresis zone for the motor feedback If you need values greater than 1, you probably have too much “slack” in your mechanical setup.

    can someone explain this a bit... My current "working" is M1 Dead z 4 M2 Dead z 3 ????
  4. Che Franklin

    Che Franklin im alot brighter than i look.. Gold Contributor

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    Thanks for lettin me vent... im sooo close and your right BEAST has been ON Point if he's not getting paid... there could be a "tipping" system.. ??
  5. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    It could be that I'm wrong or this is no longer the case now that Simtools is making major bucks. But as far as I know revenue is not shared. I know it isn't with me for sure.
  6. Che Franklin

    Che Franklin im alot brighter than i look.. Gold Contributor

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    any tip for adjusting the PWM motor 1 is wacky... and im going to isolate one of the motors and test that also ...
  7. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR - The Next Generation Staff Member Moderator

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    Do each of the motors behave properly if only one motor is used at a time?
  8. Che Franklin

    Che Franklin im alot brighter than i look.. Gold Contributor

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    YO Beast... so i took a motor apart following your guide link... so when i test there are 3 Brush connections to the Chassis which one should i cut ????All three have cont...

    "Tell your sister you where right...."
    (D.V.)

    PS i added a 10 Farad Hybrid battery capacitor for the amperage

    Attached Files:

  9. Che Franklin

    Che Franklin im alot brighter than i look.. Gold Contributor

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    Nope...
    Tests Done:
    1 motor at a time.
    two diff PWR supplies
    swap m2 controller to m1 and vise versa no change.

    all i can say is Motor 1 get EXTREMELY HOT while motor does not.. what would cause that ??
  10. Che Franklin

    Che Franklin im alot brighter than i look.. Gold Contributor

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    When i do the test in SMC3 for motion M1 and M2 work as they should EXCEPT M1 has no LOAD/not connected This is with close to the same settings as M2.. when i attached the tie rod i need to jack all settings WAY UP to get it to move the chair similar to motor 2 then it will do the motion and then shut down i think its protecting its self...
  11. Che Franklin

    Che Franklin im alot brighter than i look.. Gold Contributor

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    how do i get them both to work togethere
  12. Che Franklin

    Che Franklin im alot brighter than i look.. Gold Contributor

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    Bueller,,,,,,,,,,, Ferris Bueller....?

    Motor One draws a SUPER Amount it takes the VOts right down to 8v????
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2020
  13. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    I'm no expert on wiper's but you should only need the brushes that oppose each other. I'd cut the other one then test the two remaining brushes to make sure they don't have continuity with the outer case.
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  14. Zed

    Zed VR Simming w/Index Gold Contributor

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    Like BlazinH says, high current draws and saggy voltages with wiper motors generally are due to not breaking the ground connection inside the cases. I don’t know that all have an internal ground but many do and that can definitely do that.
  15. Che Franklin

    Che Franklin im alot brighter than i look.. Gold Contributor

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    Ok UPDATE...

    if you need a better understanding of PWM this really helped me.


    need a better understanding?
    This help with tuning in SMC3


    i have removed power supply im running a Ford explorer battery with a 10 Farad Cap..
    add 2 safety switches And 1 Emergency...

    im going to upload my current settings would someone take a look at the SMC3 utility Data?
    PLS
  16. Che Franklin

    Che Franklin im alot brighter than i look.. Gold Contributor

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    i cut all three brushes 1 by 1 they ALL still have continuity to the chassis of the motor?

    Also how come motor 2 works mint but motor one is not? this is the last week i have to finish this before work again..

    Help pls ive done all in the guides no joy..
  17. Che Franklin

    Che Franklin im alot brighter than i look.. Gold Contributor

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    im trying i cut all 3 one at a time no joy FML lol ok so whom evers looking
    when i do the isolation test i get the same result on all 4 motors i have (NO CONTINUITY) on case.. the only time it BUZZes is when i touch + To - i get tone...

    Now according to the isolation test, I DO NOT NEED TO DO THIS.....????
    also i put my meeter on the motor output i get 13v then 0 in sine wave what should i be getting?
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2020
  18. Zed

    Zed VR Simming w/Index Gold Contributor

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    I haven't used wiper motors and haven't had to do the surgery so take this as I think this is how it is but can't say from experience. Maybe someone else who knows better will chime in...

    I don't think your brushes should have continuity to the motor frame. If they do, you have to find that path and cut it or else isolate your motors from your rig to where voltage on the wiper motor frame/chassis doesn't have a path through your sim frame to anything grounded or to the frame/chassis of the other motor.

    The motors are run by H-bridges so the motor direction can be reversed by electronically swapping which motor lead is + and which is -. If there is a path to ground or to the other motor through your sim frame, linkages, etc, when both motors are having the same voltage applied to the brush that is grounded, things kind of work. But when one or the other changes polarity, it's like a direct short across your motor power supplies through whatever frame parts are between them.

    If you are inside the motor and don't see where the ground is, you can lift a brush away from the commutator and check if that brush frame is still grounded. One will be and one won't be. Your mission is to do what you need to do to cut that ground so both brush frames in a motor are floating. If you can't break that connection for whatever reason, you then have to make sure that your motors are electrically isolated from your sim frame as well as any position feedback pots or whatever you are using. You can't provide a path between the two motor frames for current to flow, or to ground if any part of your sim frame is somehow grounded.

    You'll get there.
  19. Che Franklin

    Che Franklin im alot brighter than i look.. Gold Contributor

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    thanks for the input, im completely stumped.. its def an issue with motor one
    im going to try again to isolate the motor i have a lower back issue so i cant pull the case off again is there any other way to isolate the gnd?


    if i do get the motor1 isolated, do i need to do both?
    sorry you guys
  20. Zed

    Zed VR Simming w/Index Gold Contributor

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    I was re-reading and it looks like you tested continuity between the power leads and the wiper motor body and do or do not have continuity? You seem to say both.

    If you have continuity between the two motor leads that is normal. The brushes connect to the armature and those are pretty low resistance windings. Depending on what your meter calls continuity, it will beep or whatever or show a very low resistance.

    What you don't want is to have continuity between either of the motor leads and the metal motor case. If you get the beep/buzz or see low resistance when testing that, then you have to isolate or do motor surgery. If you don't get continuity to the case then you have some other problem.

    Continuity?

    Also, know that because H bridges reverse the motor connections electronically, you may see a problem with one motor and not the other - until current gets reversed. It sounds like your rig isn't moving yet so depending on how it is sitting or blocked, it is possible to think one motor is good and the other is bad but actually have both motors bad. If you have continuity to the case in one, odds are good you have it in the other. It just may be the other one has its H bridge putting ground potential on that terminal so it looks ok but actually isn't if that makes sense.
    • Agree Agree x 1