My wooden 2DOF simulator 24V

Being a handyman, I wanted to build my dynamic simulator.
To start, I looked in the trade for a pleayseat.
- In steel, I find them not very solid to undergo the movements and a lot of criticisms on the internet concerning ergonomics.
- The aluminum was too expensive, I didn't know if my project was feasible.
So since I do a bit of carpentry for fun, I looked for ideas and ended up finding plans...

After a few months, the platform was finished.
Always with the aim of minimizing costs, I found a seat on the side of the road!
I bought a volent T150 to finally try it on my PS4 with Grand Turismo!

I am still very far from the beauty of the original!

I recovered at my work two 24V/350W motors with integrated reducer, these are brush motors for floor washers.
Here is the result after renovating them, bearings, seals...

Making a homemade gimbal... Inspired on the forums.
3cm steel plate bent, welded, four holes, a little paint and here is a gimbal!!!
I had looked for gimbals like the one used by @raté but couldn't find on Amazon, aliexpress... or too expensive at tractor parts sellers.

Box for electronics with an old PC power supply.
1 Arduino Uno:

2 driver modules for motors:

I kept the power supply fan to connect it to the 5V of the arduino and oriented the heatsinks of the cards for better cooling.
The problem is that the fan is having trouble turning.
Any ideas? Where to connect to have a permanent current of 5V?

Simulator base: 18mm MDF wood fiber plate 1220x610mm.
For the playseat, steering wheel... I also used MDF but I reinforced it with 34x44mm cleats.

Arm for the motors: 3mm thick steel, 10cm long, drilled to the diameter of the shaft and the shape of the motor key.
The black tube is to stiffen everything, it is fixed by 2 needle screws.

Motor pulley: Aluminium: 60 teeth, diameter 42mm, belt thickness 7mm, held by grub screws.
Potentiometer pulley: 20 teeth, diameter 16mm
Belt reference 2GT-200

5V DC potentiometer without stopper, for the tension of the belt I ovalized the fixing holes.

Installation of 24V/20A power supplies
15Ah would have been a bit tight (the motor consumes 14.59Ah), no regrets they are the same price as the 20A!

Small reminder for power calculations:
P=UI => Watt=Volt X Intensity
=> 350 (motor) = 24 X I
=> 350/24=I
I= 14.59A

Some information on other possible food.

You can also put two 12V batteries in series (to get 24V).
But beware! For a duration in time it is necessary to take Deep cycle batteries (open lead acid) and not car batteries (car batteries do not like to be deeply discharged).
The deep cycles will be able to be discharged up to 20% of their capacity, on a 100Ah battery (in C5) we can only use 80Ah (so in my case 2H30 of use), it is necessary to respect that it is important , below 20% is called deep discharge and the battery deteriorates quickly.
So it is necessary to control the intensity level of the battery, and connect an ammeter in parallel to the +/- terminals.

For me there is no point in putting this type of power supply, unless you live in the woods
1° Expensive batteries: minimum 150€ X 2
2° Installation of an ammeter that must be monitored
3° Low autonomy

2 power supplies 110/240V => 24V/20A are worth 40€ or 80€ for both.

The calculation is quickly done

Placement of the gimbal on a post about 30 cm high, i.e. a total of 40cm for a good clearance.
I added steel plates to increase the grip surface, I'm afraid the wood will tear off!
I also put a plywood plate (I only had that ) to facilitate the assembly of the playseat.

The pole is not aesthetic, but it is only provisional, when the simulator will work correctly and durably we will see for the beauty.

Finished assembly!

I put the wiring back.
Pay attention to the quality of the connections (crimping), I had problems afterwards
For the wires of the potentiometers, H-bridge... don't do like me, I took what I found (1.5mm). They are too big, too rigid, it quickly becomes complicated to work with them in small spaces. I have since changed following a problem with 0.75mm.

Yes it works I had a few mechanical problems, but I will soon make new posts with the video in operation and explain my errors and the difficulties for the settings.

As promised !

As promised !

It's edited, good viewing.

It's been months since I showed the progress of my progress, small mechanical problems, electronics, holidays...
let's catch up on this delay:

After assembly, I immediately managed to make it work on LFP, but problems with poorly adjusted parts on the outputs of the motor gears slowed me down: too much travel, the potentiometers went out of adjustment...
I always make modifications to recovery parts (from my job).
The black piece is a nylon motor end that connects the motor to the brush of a floor scrubber (perfectly adjusted and very solid)!!!
I assembled everything with screws: pulley, simulator lifting plate and nylon ring.
Result, more play, more noise, movement and linear.

After his modifications, I played a few races and all of a sudden the engines started shaking!
I unplugged the simulator, checked the connections of the potentiometers, of the cards... Nothing!
I restarted the simulator which got up and then turned off!
Result dead!
After expertise, the 2 H-bridges and the Arduino: BRUNT!!!
The cause: GND connections on an H-bridge were badly crimped.
I'm not drawing you a picture! Increase in amps...
Result: 3 cards burned.

If anyone has a link for 6-pin connections, I'm all ears!!!
The "dupont" connectors are really of very poor quality! (to be polite)

I replaced them with electrician connections!
I am ashamed!
I promise I will modify as soon as possible

Since the beginning of the week, the motivation has finally returned! I'm back!!!
Thoroughly! Lots of goals...
As you can see on the video, the silumator works perfectly or almost!
The sensations are good, but not enough travel, on smc3 the MAX limits are at Maximum!
I find that the motors do not peak.
For me the pulley at the motor output is not big enough.
Tell me if I'm on the right track?