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DANIEL'S 2DOF SCN5+12V WORM GEAR MOTOR TL

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Danny255, Jan 17, 2017.

  1. Danny255

    Danny255 Member

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    But problem is,when my pots have 4mm diameter shaft,i can't find some coupler with these parameters,maybe i will think about new pots,because these are not so acurate in feedback.
  2. ilbiga

    ilbiga Active Member

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  3. Danny255

    Danny255 Member

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  4. ilbiga

    ilbiga Active Member

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    I'd say it's okay, right? Is it a problem adapting your engine shaft to 4mm?
  5. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Flex couplers can be had in any size you need for the most part. Just gotta search is all.

    I would HIGHLY suggest better pots with a more standard 6.35mm shaft that way you dont have to buy couplers all over again when you realize cheap pots are junk in yo trunk. ;)
  6. Danny255

    Danny255 Member

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    Ilbiga:I already have 4mm shaft on motors,so i need 4x4mm shaft coupler

    Nick:I could be maybe best solution,but i want to try it with these pots(easier way),because new pots means make new shafts for wiper motors and for middle motor too.

    I found this coupler from neighbor my country Slovakia,good shipping and price,but they are little bit different in build.They haven't got that cut in the middle,i don't know how much effective there are with closing the pot.Do you know something about them?This is momentaly best solution for me.

    Link:

    https://www.fablabfactory.com/products/flexible-coupling-4x4mm
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  7. RandomCoder

    RandomCoder Active Member Gold Contributor

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    Personally I prefer the type of flexible coupling you have linked, these tend to be more robust than the other type available as shown below...
    [​IMG]
    The type pictured above have failed many times in the past before changing to the style you have found (they were fitted to a 100T press to monitor position). The clamping onto the potentiometer and motor shaft is not a problem. Some have a split and just clamp onto the shaft, Others use a grub screw to grip the shaft and some can even come with key ways.
  8. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Cant say we have Ever had A Flex coupler fail around these parts. At least not that ive seen.....care to share a picture of a broken unit ?....and in reality if your flex coupler fails, its due to VERY wrong forces being applied to it. And i HIGHLY suggest you check thing's before proceeding.
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  9. RandomCoder

    RandomCoder Active Member Gold Contributor

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    @Nick Moxley I agree with your sentiment, both type of coupling are rated at 3 degrees of misalignment but in my experience the type that @Danny255 linked perform better than the ones I pictured. I'm not able to show I photo of a failed coupler as we no longer use them having replace for the more reliable style. But they always tended to fail dead center of the coupling.
    We use to monitor ram positions on our presses, an encoder shaft is driven by a rack and pinion connected to the rams. Obviously there must have been too much misalignment for the units to fail, but with no other adjustment the coil style couplers have survived.
  10. ilbiga

    ilbiga Active Member

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  11. Danny255

    Danny255 Member

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    That couplers from Slovakia side what i linked here,they don't have them in stock.So for better function,i decided to buy new pots,with 6,35mmshaft,which is more supported in "couplers" world and easier to found.
    I found this pot in Conrad,it looks solid:
    http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product...lastic-Potentiometer-1-W-360?ref=searchDetail

    That pot has lower resistance than my actual pots 5 KΩ.I don't have experiences,can anybody tell me,when i will use these pots,will be there some difference?

    Shaft diameter is 6,34mm
    Will be good with this coupler 6,35x6,35,if the difference is 0,01mm?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flexible-Mo...hash=item1c7e0790a8:m:mEOsJUV4hbePNGKSL7uLdZQ


    Thank you for your reactions :)
  12. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    I can only suggest the Very well known, Very Durable Hall effects we all run from any of the major electronics retailers.
    6127V1A180L.5FS


    And for the coupler, 0.01 wont make a difference at all, they aren't exactly 6.35mm when not tightened, they are slightly over sized and clamp down to 6.35
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  13. ilbiga

    ilbiga Active Member

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  14. Danny255

    Danny255 Member

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    Hi Ilbiga,That Vishays looks good,i have linked one here.
    Finally i decided to order this hall sensor,what Nick posted:
    http://cz.farnell.com/bi-technologi...ey=http:cz-CZ/Element14_Czech_Republic/search

    which is most used,what i read in the forum,so i surrely can't make a mistake with them.
    Also i will order coupler 4mm to 6mm,or 6,35,whatever.Finally i have plan :D
    When the stuff will arrive,i will make new posts with testing movement in action.
    Thank you all guys for supporting,see you soon,bye :)
    • Like Like x 1
  15. ilbiga

    ilbiga Active Member

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    Great. The hall effect sensors are undoubtedly better than potentiometers (which have rubbing parts).

    I'm curious to see the progress of your project! :cheers
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  16. Danny255

    Danny255 Member

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    Hello guys, it's been a few months since my last post. I did not have too much time to work on the simulator. But now I want to finish the job and enjoy a lot of fun with my friends, they can not wait for the first ride :): D.(again sorry for my english...using google translator :D)

    I decided to buy new engines, the best choice for me propably will be:

    https: //www.ebay.com/itm/GEAR-MOTOR-12-VOLT-GREAT-FOR-SAWMILL-CRAB-POT-PULL-FEED-SIMULATOR-75- 80RPM-50-1 / 371596157992? _trkparms = aid% 3D111001% 26algo% 3DREC.SEED% 26ao% 3D1% 26asc% 3D41375% 26meid% 3D887b775d920c46f49e1c11b4dd892fc9% 26pid% 3D100033% 26rk% 3D2% 26rkt% 3D8% 26mehot% 3Dpp% 26sd% 3D371596157992 & _trksid = p2045573.c100033.m2042

    I decided between a 25: 1 and a 50: 1 gearbox, I'd rather choose 50: 1 for my simulator, have more pulling power, and that's exactly what I need,because i have a full frame steel setup.
    Please can anybody tell me some ipinion for that?:)

    I use jrk boards,and saw only 1-2 projects with these 50: 1 motors with jrk combination .
    I'd rather ask,before i'l spend a lot of money...does anyone have some experiences with these engines from pgsaw (Canada) and jrk boards ? What is their maximum current?That motor i have for traction loose 60:1 from motioncontrol.uk make too much current,and i can't use it effectively with jrk..simtools just crashing down,because of much amps)because that i am worried about my choice)..and wiper motors are too slow for me.So is this motor good for pid settings?What about errors and crashing down with simtools?
    I'd like to order motors as soon as possible and make some testing videos. :)

    Thank you in advance for your advice and opinions.
  17. Danny255

    Danny255 Member

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    From last project update,i did just one thing.Make fitting for wheel..which is a little bit height adjustable under angle..tightened by screws from side.Not so good option,but better than nothing :D
    Photo of wheel fitting and complete rig.


    Next will be fitting for sequential shifter with hydraulic handbrake.

    Attached Files:

  18. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    You are correct, the 25:1 will be faster but the 50:1s have more torque.

    I am pretty sure @shannonb1 uses the pgsaw 50:1s with JRKs, being a big guy, I use the similar 50:1 and 60:1s from Motion Dynamics with JRKs.

    See here re setting up the JRKs: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/faq/jrk-setup-guide-eaorobbie.14/

    JRKs can be a bit sensitive to PSU power surges, particularly with server PSUs (lower the settings a little to compensate), but are pretty good with LED PSUs.
  19. Danny255

    Danny255 Member

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    Some update after long time :)
    I have made holder for sequential shifter and hydraulic handbrake.It's little bit height adjustable by screws.
    Also I've got motors from pgsaw (50:1),inverted gearbox for left and right.Next thing i have to do is make new shafts for motors.
    Some photos from my last work :)

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 3
  20. ilbiga

    ilbiga Active Member

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    Beautiful work! congratulations for the minuteness! Did you work all the metal parts yourself? (welding etc. ...) :eek: