Showroom 6DOF Build (Bodine Motors, Sabertooth, FlyPT Mover)

Actually @pipis2015 is correct, 8A is 8A, doesn't matter what voltage level supplies it.

While Technically correct, Its a Moot point as Craig pointed out.

I was not trying to give a lecture but safety is an issue here and specs are there so components are operated within their designed envelope.

Other than that everyone is free to do whatever they feel like is best for them according to their point of view.

Guys so I wana order these pots
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...j3Xg/E%2bT4uaGQMLkF/ZbX4q0Jou%2bC/VeFbkRN3Q==

What shaft coupler goes with these one? A link would be appriciated. Thanks

the Fancy 180 hall effect Pot output shafts are 6.35mm in diameter. The other end of the Coupler will depend on the motor/Configuration your running.

Click on "Datasheet" when looking at technical components as such and it will give you Everything.

I agree 1/4" pot shaft and then direct to your motor or you will have to fashion a connection on the motor side. I recommend you drop the FS (flat shaft) spec on the end of your hall pots and just use a round shaft instead.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC0.A0.H0.Xflexible shaft coupler.TRS0&_nkw=flexible shaft coupler&_sacat=0

@BlazinH , @Nick Moxley , this is what I am trying to do.

So for the 5/8" coupler with key way, gona get the one shown in the link and weld CTC lever to it.
https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/5-8-shaft-coupler-with-keyway/

Thinking about getting these ones for pot mointing, but not sure what size screw to use for point "A" and point "B".
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Motor-S...317990?hash=item2803f8a266:g:tQUAAOSwT4lWTtii

A/B which are the same can be what ever the heck you want it to be, Couplers come in all shapes and sizes.

First get a 1/4" on both ends pot coupler. Then if you have a 5/8" drill bit weld your lever on the motor coupler first. Then stick the 5/8" bit thru the coupler and drill in enough that you have a good indentation in the center. Then use a 1/4" bit and drill the rest of the way thru the lever. Now put a 1/4" bolt in thru the coupler and lever and use a nut on the outside of the lever to secure it. Now you can attach your motor and pot to your lever. If you don't have a 5/8" bit you may want to drill the 1/4" hole in your lever first and then make sure its centered somehow before you weld it to the coupler.

Thanks @BlazinH, took me a good minute to absorb what you suggested It will work. Thanks a lot

Not finding the round shaft 180 pot. Thats what I originally wanted.

While it shouldn't matter, if you don't want to cinch your pot coupler down on bolt threads, you could instead use a smooth shank 1/4 bolt, cut the threads it does have off, and weld it to the lever instead of using a nut.

Motors, MMs, Ards, Power Supplies, Shaft Couplers (for Motors & Pots), Hall Sensors all ordered

Need help with deciding between http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs...ight-hand-tie-rod-end-bearing/1559309095.html
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Four-link-K...ash=item27dcae1f5d:g:g9MAAMXQh8NTemIG&vxp=mtr

I wana avoid welding if possible. Thanks

I find rod ends to be quieter especially if you dont get the heim joints with bearings. They also wear out sooner because of metal on metal.

The Aliexpress/Tie Rod End Style are IMO vastly superior, They are a Greased joint with Significantly more "angle" potential without the need for Shims or washer's and are also Significantly cheaper....welding will be required regardless imo, strait threaded rod is a No go unless its 1/2" or up and even then in long enough length's even that will "bow" with enough pressure.

Even though I am using the cheaper bung type Hiem joints I agree with Nick. The Tie Rod end type are much better for a 6DoF project.

And you will have to do some welding to get strong rods. Threaded rods bend easy, as Nick says, because each thread is a joint or pre-cut that is likely any side force at all will cause a bend or even a break. I ran into this on my 6DoF. I had forgotten that when I recommended Heim joints.

For welding, if lack of a welder is at issue Harbor Frieght has a really cheap 110v welder that, hard to believe as it is, is dependable. I have had mine for several years and it works every time I plug it in.

The welder is on sale right now for 81.00. I do not usually buy tools at HB due to the low quality but I do love their hand clamps (I have 70 of them....before that sounds nuts do remember that I own and operate a custom cabinet shop) and I have been very happy with this welder:

http://www.harborfreight.com/90-amp-ac-120-volt-flux-cored-welder-61849.html

Damn you Historiker, You just cost me 80 USD....lol Trip down South in a couple weeks For First Round of Racing Racing and this is almost too cheap to pass up along with a decent review.

Edit*** turns out i can get the very much similar unit locally, from our own Princess Auto for a few bucks more, but the near lifetime warranty you can haggle with at princess wins it out in case of ever needing to return it. Thanks for the push tho, Always wanted to do my own small project welding (Ill leave the fancy curved seat frames to my buddy Lol)

@shannonb1, @Nick Moxley & @Historiker, thanks for helping me make a decision. Order placed for tie rod end

I have a welder, its just that I do not trust my welding skills, oh well, too late now. So now i need to order the rods. Here is what I am thinking.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bo...n-Steel-Cold-Rolled-Round-Rod-48140/100338204
or
amazon.com/gp/product/B0066ENSNA

and then I will have to weld a piece of this amazon.com/M10X1-5-Ametric%25C2%25AE-DIN-975-Threaded/dp/B00DJTJB54 at the end and thats it right?

Not Solid rod....Hollow 3/4 Round bar. Welde a Bolt to the Ends and whamo, ready for Female Rod ends.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-36-in-x-3-4-in-x-1-16-in-Plain-Steel-Round-Tube-801237/204225742

You can Just BARELY make out the bole heads anymore, a Quality weld WILL be required to grind them this "Flush" without fear of it breaking. These were welded but a LARGE mamma jamma stick welder that i highly doubt a Small Wire feed can penetrate As deep....but what ever bolts and the tube are cheap....Buy an extra tube and Practice welding bolts to the ends.....MAKE sure to keep them strait too, No crooked a** bolts allowed....lol

@Nick Moxley, would this hollow bar be sturdy enough? In your 2nd pic, why is the tie rod end on the left shorter? Did you cut it?

Also why hollow? Why not solid? One would think that solid would be more sturdy.

Hollow is More than strong enough for starters, and Solid rod is Way Overkill on weight. The 2nd rod end has been cut to clear part of my gearbox and have it flush with the Nut on the backside of the lever.