3 DOF / 3x Mixed Vertical Actuators 24v 200w / adjustable rig / Done and runing :D

Hello all
I started thinking about the simulator after encountering structures based on wiper motors. Due to the fact that I do not want to build the simulator twice, I turned to a heavier structure based on 3 electric motors with the elimination of the lower frame.
So I thought about lever driven linear actuators, their characteristics will not be linear but I had carriages and rails after cnc plasma construction and the ball screws are out of range.

Moving on to the point (secondary market):
- I bought 2 motors about 200W 24V (I'm looking for the third one)
- INA KWVE20B rails and trolleys
- aluminum profiles 40x80,40x40
- bucket seat

I modeled the drive mechanism (below its 3rd configuration

I have initially assumed the frame size of 1200x600mm
Motors located on the outer contour, rear ones will be in mirror but I was not waste time for that now.
Actuators arre not finished, plates need be stronger on the back and will be installed on profiles by using 2 surfaces.



some weeks later:




Updates (12 2021) all information bellow
-1 motors with gearbox
-2 motor with one gear
-arduino uno, 3x BTS7960, 3x AS5600 hall + housing printed 3d, dc power 10A and 20A
-G29 whell,mod pedalls, gear knob
-aluminum profiles 45x90,40x40 (frame 1200x700)



Update (03012022)
need to add 2 parallel ibt-2 for each motor
add 2nd arduino to drive 3rd motor
motor tested smc3 and front spring on monitor support
add hanbrake and separate g29 pedals connection



Update (08012022)
rig is runing
front need 2nd ibt-2
still have some isuess (details during thread)
movie below
I just receive DIY KEY from SIMTOOLS



Some movies:


https://www.bitchute.com/video/UQ470ENrmbKe/

Update (22012022)


https://www.bitchute.com/video/Icsw8mWBu3Nz/

Update (27012022)
instal galvanic isolation ADUM3160 for arduinos (motor drivers)
instal cooling for motors and BTS7960
instal second keyboard , mouse and watt usage measurement
need to:
instal rumble motors for traction lose
some safety shields for rear mechanics
change drivers cable for IDC-10 tape

Update (21022022)
Change rear levers from 50 to 35mm (motors hot)
Change arduinos from ch340 to 16u2 (lost motion in game)
Add arduino schields and change drivers cable for IDC-10 tape
connect all grounds

Design is little bit change. Previous plate was too huge.
Now, device was build on two plates is more compact.
Stroke is some 70mm or 100mm.

I like your vertical actuators - they look neat

However there is no advantage over a fixed base and lever arms

Have you built the actuators yet ?

Google - scotch yoke mechanism

Tomorrow I will finish the details and check if the boards fit in the mirror so as not to multiply the drawings for milling. the profile visible in the picture is the right part of the frame. We will see if that assembly will work

good design mate, it can be compact, dont need lower chasis like conventional design...

Due to the fact that the aftermarket is not the supermarket ,plan is changes and requires redesign.

I did not have access to the seat models, so I failed to measure the dimensions to prevent collisions (photo 10b, 23b)

I changed the profiles, based on the assumption of 40x80, to 45x90. frame extended by 100mm (1200x700).
This change requires a redesign of the engine mounting plates. (photo 11b-16b)

The next engines that I was able to buy have a different design than the previous ones ... should be more reactive, they will be mounted at the rear (photo 11b, 12b)

As potentiometers for motors, I wanted to use a ten-turn potentiometer and connect the motor shaft with a printed gear in the proportion of 1/16, which was to use 8 turns of the potentiometer for half the shaft.
I have printed the samples, but there is no possibility for the gear to fast run potentiometer (hevy to fast rotate) - too low teeth (increasing the height of the teeth does not make sense because it allowed the entire structure to go away from room (21b)
A colleague gave me the idea of replacing the potentiometer with the AS5600 hall sensor as a module:
https://kamami.pl/enkodery/580650-modul-enkodera-magnetycznej-z-ukladem-as5600.html

And another thing that needed improvement was the floating feet.
When changing the geometry during the movement with the maximum tilt - the foot moves more than 8mm. (photo 19b, 20b)
The feet are supposed to have 10mm of play (photos 17b, 18b).

Some progress in garage to share

The pedals will be mounted upside down so I changed the throttle and clutch mechanisms

After mounting the steering wheel, pedals and gear knob - I checked my hidden plan.
The system can be configured to be close to f1 or a normal car. Joints and locks serve this purpose. It is enough to mark the places on the profiles and secure the positions. I have to say that it looks promising. Both positions are ergonomic, but we'll see in motion.

This week is drawing and printing.
Installation of the hall sensor AS5600 using printed elements as below. White is prototypes and improved fits.
Ender printer: 0.2 nozzle / 0.1 layer / temp 200 / speed 150 / wall 1.5 / filling 20 / PLA material

Suports done. Need to connect and test. Waiting for milling parts.

Update: Was tested with Arduino Uno connected to smc3 1.0 .
I want use this sensor as analog :
VCC - 5V
OUT - PIN A0
GND - GND
I plug in and nothing happend... serching web... solved:
You need to remove R4 (1k) resistor or connect GPO to VCC than You can read OUT pin as analog.
source:
https://forum.digikey.com/t/as5600-angle-magnetic-sensor-analog-out-problem/3325/4

Milling parts update

Another update

I assumed that the worm gear motor will not start without applying tension, but after mounting the arm, it can be turned using force.
This causes joint collisions with the printed magnet element.
New and improved elements have been printed, but it is not possible to adjust the angle of the magnet. You have to take out the magnet and insert it at the correct angle.

After Sunday tests, 2 out of three IBT-2s were damaged (one direction), while 1 was spinning without any problems.

I have question about hall sensor AS5600 like on my photos.
The last days after work I sat in the garage at a temperature of -5deg and I can't cope with the hall sensors. At the beginning, I put everything together anyhow, and it worked. now I have uninterrupted peaks and jumps in the graph or he flow just sharpness up and down, I soldered all connections and it is the same. I checked on 2 others halls without changes. I connected through the new original arduino and no changes, I'm already a bit pissed because I put a lot of work into it and it doesn't still work. If you have any experience, please advise.
I already have all the mechanical parts and should go on but no, what was supposed to be plug and play is trying to train me.

How does it perform when you take the weight off the motors

I won't tell you until I can deal with the disturbances that randomly rotate the actuators beyond the desired range (catastrophic collisions ). Printing time after the collision is about 20 hours ... I do not risk it.
-I tried to add a 1Mohm resistor but it didn't help
-I do not like the usb cable yet but I do not have another (better)
- I do not have ferrites yet (I read on the forum that they help)

I am thinking more and more about ordinary rotary resistors, or as a colleague advised to put an as5600's on a separate arduino and read i2c.

From the begining i use just axle of motor and hall sensor without an arm.

Turn the potentiometer by hand, do they read ok ?