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2DoF Wiper Motor Uno MM

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by DonCorleonez, Aug 26, 2016.

  1. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, 3DOF, DC motor, JRK

    NO you dont want to be "limiting" any axis in reality......the Basic setup for the lever's is performed **for me** in the JRK utility, Not simtools.
  2. insanegr

    insanegr !N$@n€

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, Arduino
    you can use a feature that smc3 V0.7 has. use a pot to scale down (limit) the travel.
    Updates Version 0.7

    • Added a POT scaling input that can be used to scale the motion output based on the POT position
    • POT scaling can be setup as one of two modes - Linear or non-linear
    • DO NOT ENABLE POT SCALING UNLESS POT ATTACHED TO ARDUINO
    • AN5 used for POT scaling input
    • The non linear scaling is designed to try and reduce the overall motion but maintain the "smaller" movements as best possible - ie road noise and stuff, but scale back on the huge side to side motion you get in higher power cars.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  3. Pastrana

    Pastrana Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF
    Very good, where are you?
  4. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    • Agree Agree x 1
  5. Historiker

    Historiker Dramamine Adict Staff Member Moderator Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, Arduino, Motion platform, 6DOF
    @Pastrana, Noorbeast is giving you very good advice. :)
  6. DonCorleonez

    DonCorleonez Member

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    any suggestion
    problem in motor 2, feedback cant keep up with target line,


    motor 1 relatively normal, always inline between target and feedback
  7. DonCorleonez

    DonCorleonez Member

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    motor 2 mm behaviour


    motor direction indicator for motor 2 is not always blinking, when this happen, my lever keep hanging at up position. It came ON if "brought down" to "target" area by seat movement. and after that it'll off.
  8. DonCorleonez

    DonCorleonez Member

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    Here is screenshot from SMC3, for Motor 1 & motor 2.
    As you can see, PWM graph motor 1 is relatively smoother than motor 2.
    I already switch pots, same thing happened.
    Replace with new pots in motor 2 same thing happened.
    Screenshot 2016-11-07 08.17.35.png
  9. speedy

    speedy Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, AC motor, Arduino, Motion platform
    Reload the SMC3 code to the Aduino and try again ... otherwise you may have a bad Arduino.
  10. DonCorleonez

    DonCorleonez Member

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    Will do your advice @speedy , i do have spare arduino Nano. Is it same wiring diagram with Uno?
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2016
  11. DonCorleonez

    DonCorleonez Member

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    Hi,

    After several setback moment with MM, i finally turn my option to Sabertooth 2x32 as it "looks" more simple, powerful, and "Cheaper" than JRK or even bad MM.

    But, i have new problem.
    I already follow @Wanegain instruction for sabertooth + Arduino listed in FAQ.
    But when i click "Turn On" in GameEngine Output Testing, my power supply is shutdown. When i click, my motor have small flick before PSU Shutdown.
    After several browsing, i have some understanding (please CMIIW)
    1. There is "back current" happen on my setup
    2. I need to put "something" to overcome this situation.
    3. "Something" option is Car Battery/Diode/Resistor(this is included inside box of sabertooth)

    Please guide me which option should i take?
    what is specification of car battery(brand new or used is enough?)/diode/resistor?
    And how to done it?

    As a reminder this is my setup :
    2 x 12V MotionDynamic 25:1 200W DC motor
    1 x HP PSU DPS600PB
    1 x Arduino Uno
    1 x Sabertooth 2x32
    2 x Hall Sensor BI Technologies

    ps: Sorry for un-electric terms, as i really dont have background in electric.
  12. DonCorleonez

    DonCorleonez Member

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    Hi, long time no see..
    after some advice from @Wanegain , i finally have better movement without any PSU shutdown.
    but i do have some several problem, you can see in the video



    do you guys have suggestionn?

    the lever is stuck, and trying to comeback to reverse position, when testing without load it will come back after some "struggle".
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2017
  13. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    I would suggest bracing the motor mounts further, make more efficient use of leverage, even turning the levers 180 degrees would help, then re balance and calibrate the whole thing.
  14. DonCorleonez

    DonCorleonez Member

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    About leverage what do you suggest @noorbeast?shorten CTC?, currently i am using 60 mm.
    And about turning 180 degrees, do you mean pointing backwards?sure i'll try.

    So what do you guys think if i move lever inward opposite to current position (outward)? my T-bar (horizontal) at shoulder height is only 20 cm, while current length between two motor lever is 55 cm.
  15. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    Yes try 50mm CTC and yes turn the levers around 180 degrees. We had the discussion earlier in the thread that 40 degrees up and down is the most effective use of torque, starting at a right angle. More is very inefficient.

    The rig also has to be well balanced, including with yourself and all peripherals attached, as it is a full frame design.

    There is still flex in the motor mounts.
  16. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, 3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    overall you have too much weight on the motor's and your "over powering them" per say. When they go to move to a new position, the controller has to send a P signal to move, and has to stop giving it said P signal at some point and switch to D, when that happens he motor free wheels for milliseconds and in that moment the weight you have on the motor's is over powering them and putting them in a position they cannot recover from without help.

    overall this is a Balance and overall setup problem. Flip the levers around, re support and re balance the rig and try again.
  17. DonCorleonez

    DonCorleonez Member

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    UPDATE April, 24th 2017
    Hi all,

    i am back after thoroughly re-read every FAQ, every advice from my thread, and others thread.
    FINALLY MY SIMULATOR IS MOVING..YEAYYY!!!:cheers

    this is video of my sim in action


    and this is my setting
    1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 6.jpg 5.jpg

    Update from previous :
    1. Re-build my simulator to simple seat shaker (previous full frame).
    2. Re-make motor shaft from threaded rod to custom shaft (milling).
    3. Evaluate wiring.
    4. Evaluate @Wanegain arduino sketch (Min & Max pot. I decide to using +60 -60 degree movement, to prevent over travel lever).
    5. Will send my simulator frame to be powdercoated.
    6. Back to drawing board, traction loss coming soon (motor already on hands, board still thinking Sabertooth?JRK?).

    With current setting and condition, my movement as you see in video. I still learn to get finer movement. Playing AC for 2-4 hours (playing with motion sim is really addictive) my motor is Normal (even no warm), my Sabertooth is Normal, my PSU is Normal. the only problem is my PSU is very loud.
    Playing Dirt Rally with AC setting. Everything is warmer. I play only for ONE Stage (6-10 min).

    some question :
    1. I am thinking about giving some "safety protection" to my electronic configuration, i see several nice idea from this community (using car battery, fuse, even relay). i really want to put all that to may simulator (Overkill?). what do you guys think?

    2. Am my simulator eligible for free SimTools 2.0?


    That's all my current status. please dont hesitate to comment about my simulator (i really need input from all sim expert from this amazing community).
    thanks a heap to @noorbeast, @Nick Moxley , @Wanegain , @drtikol , @Daguru , @insanegr , @Historiker
    • Like Like x 2
    • Winner Winner x 1
  18. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, JRK
  19. DonCorleonez

    DonCorleonez Member

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  20. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, 3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    Lotus 125T = YUCK.....thats a far cry from a F1 car. I do not suggest basing ANY profiles on that monstrosity of a car.


    F138 if you want to test a legit f1 without worrying about the Hybrid management.

    Dont be afraid to crank on them Profile editor sliders.

    Ideally you'll want your Rock stiff F1's on the negative side and the Bubble gum soft Street cars on the Positive side. Essentially using the same tuning center values but covering the wide spectrum of suspensions.