2DOF Seat Shaker - Commonly Available Parts

Originally posted this in the "New Members Thread", but have been advised to ask questions here. So here I go.

Have played around with force feedback steering wheels for a while, and now want to experience a full simulation system. Had considered buying one of the commercial systems, but as I have a manufacturing business that specializes in producing metal components, thought I should take up the challenge of building my own. We have CNC machining centres and lathes, a laser cutter, brake presses, welders, etc, so the fabrication side shouldn't be an issue (famous last words). Also, we have built our own Elfin Clubman racing car, as well as assisted others to build theirs.
Our initial intention is to build a basic 2DOF shoulder mount seat shaker style system.
Pololo JRK's & MotionDynamics 12V 25:1 worm drive motors already been ordered.

The mere mention of what I may be doing has resulted in a customer and several mate's enquiring if we could produce at least the basic "structure" for them, so would like to use commonly available parts if possible. Obviously there will be lots of trial and error along the way.
So, does anyone know of where or have recommendations for obtaining reasonably cheaply, in quantities of say 5:
- a basic lightweight seat? (Could fabricate our own from steel or aluminium, but then it needs to be padded)
- a suitable unijoint/yoke NOT from a wreckers? DIY anyone? Cheapest off-the-shelf I have found through a machine supplier is around $50 but is only 28.5mm outside diameter. Any minimum specs I should be looking for?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,
Brett

Thanks @noorbeast. Those Ghepardo seats would have been perfect. Looks like you need to buy a container load to get them in Oz now though. :-( Will think about the Kogan chair. Not ideal, but would be cheaper than we can make one for. Advantage of making ourselves would be the reduced weight. A few of the Elfin Clubman style race cars we have worked on have basically a 3mm Alum formed sheet seat with a bit of padding glued in place. Worried I am getting a bit old and need more comfort though.

We checked out Hardy Spicer who have the majority of major brand uni-joint kits, but even their cheapest was more expensive than I hoped for. Might end up making a lot more parts for this than I expected.

@Brett @noorbeast
those kirkey seats would be the cheapest.
Bugger soldsmart no longer has the ghepardo seats.
The only others I could think of are supercheap auto recliners when they are on sale. I had one in the past and it was excellent.
Uni joints for seat movers only, steering knuckles seem to be the go. I personally have not used them, I just hunt around for a cheap 2nd hand tailshaft, usually costs me $20-$30, cut to size and weld plates. Thats 2 unis out of that, and yes, they are overkill, but have never failed.
I dont think the kogan chairs would be suitable.
You could make your own seat from plywood sheet, pad it and fabric it, but it may work out the same cost as buying a seat.
Otherwise, you are on track and using JRKS is good.
Dave.

@bsft & @noorbeast,

Thanks guys. Gives me a few more ideas (Umm, maybe that's NOT a good thing, but anyway... )

Is this the seat you had in mind @bsft: SAAS-GT-Dual-Recline-Sports-Seat (won't let me paste a link) .

I expect an aluminium Kirkey style seat will cost us at least $120 to make ($60 material, $60 labour), and that's without the beading around the edges, or any padding. There is a Supercheap Auto 2 mins down the road so will check it out later today.

For a shoulder mounted setup, lever lengths people have used seem to vary between 40mm and 80mm. What do you feel gives the best motion for an non-hardcore user? Easy enough to try a few options myself I suppose.

Plan is to build one simulator for myself using parts that I can readily obtain, modify it till I'm happy, then duplicate the design (saving on setup costs) for a few others (of various technical ability) who want one. Hence, would prefer not to get parts from wreckers unless they have heaps of one model available.

Cheers,
Brett

@Brett - Although not a regular supply of parts, I find Gumtree is a good place to find car seats / bucket seats.

Lots of people with "project cars" and they never get finished... Seats always go first. (Bulky, hard to store etc..)

I nearly bought one of Gumtree but was lucky enough to get the very last Sports Recliner from Soldsmart!

@Brett , try here for race seats https://www.facebook.com/groups/363582930425631/
Yep, JRK hands down for sure, worth the money spent.
Ok for shoulder mount, anything between 40mm and 65mm CTC is sufficient, 50mm happy medium. JRK allows settings to tame the motors a bit .
Bugger about supercheap not having the other seats anymore. Oh well, wait till they on special.

Good news. Went to SuperCheap to pick up the seat, and they had the superseeded model in stock for $149. Only diff between old and new appears to be the old is all black instead of black & silver. Some things are meant to be.

You beat me to it Brett, just saw this Today and thought you might have also seen it at SuperCheapAuto.

Bargain. I actually picked up the old model, which is all black. Was marked down to $149 because of that, with the seat your showing being priced at$235.

oooh a local

I must be just around the corner!

Plenty of self serve wreckers around (jollys in dandenong, harvey's in Langwarrin and Imlachs in Clayton)

I'm planning on going with the Tailshaft uni which i'll hopefully pickup tomorrow.

if you find useful parts, please add them to your build log, it may be useful!

G"Day @EFFalcon,

Pretty much have all the parts I need for now as detailed initially. Uni-joint I got is an off-the-shelf one from a machinery parts dealer. It's only small though so hope it is strong enough. I have several requests to build the frames, so want to minimise the cost through economies of scale by not needing to vary the design for different components. I'll manufacture all the metal framing including things like ties rods and brackets based on using MotionDynamics 12V 25:1 worm drive motors. Clients can then use any combination of power supply and motor drivers they like. The design is such that the pivot point can be slid along slots to suit the individual.

Prototype frame should be finished early next week, so then I can begin testing and modifying the design if required.

Oh, also, I'm using 3/8" rod ends as they worked out cheaper than 8mm due to them being more commonly used.

Good plan.

Do you mind me asking what the rod ends are worth?

I got these for about $6 each. Can apparently source them from the USA for under $1 each in lots of 100.

Thats a good price, I am lucky I have a bearing supplier willing to sell me PHS10 at $6 each.

Yeah very good.