2DOF Frame mover - my compact simulator

Hi to all!

Finally, after lots ofweeks of reading and planning, I've decided to start with my project. First of all, I want to spend other 2 row to say thanks to all members of this community; in particular many thanks to @noorbeast (which is very kind, my project is completely inspired by his simulator), @Blame73, @gigi, (my grandfather ) @Bernd Manger and @Pit. I'm relative young than you (25 years old), so thanks for your patience and your advices.

Challenge and goals
My goal is to make a compact and light 2DOF simulator. The entire structure is thinked in aluminium (wich is very strong and durable), and it will be made all under a seat.

Road trip
I think that to make a big and good project, I must have a general idea of entire project, but I must proceed with small steps. So my roadmap:

1. Produce a small model with Arduino and servo;
2. Make 3d model of real size simulator;
3. Make a shopping list;
4. Order a seat and universal joint;
5. Order and assembly aluminium parts to make the structure;
6. Order and assembly motors and electronic parts ( I haven't decide yet if I want to use JRK or Arduino+Sabertooth);
7. Enjoy the simulator

Small size model
First of all, I've made a small model with Arduino and 2 servo, which is very useful to understand the physics behind world of simulator and to being confident with Simtools. Here the video showing final result:


3D model
I've attached two images showing my 3d model.

Shopping list (will be updated)
Here my shopping list:

• Seat: https://www.dxracer-europe.com/racing-series/dxracer/racing-gaming-chair-oh-rz0-nr
  
• U Joint: http://www.excalibro.com/product.php?id_product=498
• Road ends (i'm thinking to buy two of this): http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLISHED-AL...BIG-BLOCK-CHEVY-LONG-WATER-PUMP-/201552279088
• Frame:
  • Aluminium profile (45mmx45mm): http://www.profilialluminio-online.it/profilo_in_alluminio_45x45_vendita_20.php
  • Alumiun frame (to make base for pedal, seat and steering wheel): http://www.profilialluminio-online.it/lamiera_in_alluminio_anodizzato_vendita_382.php
  • Base for Ujoint: steel
  • Other stuffs for structure: http://www.profilialluminio-online....gio_per_profili_lato_45_60_90_vendita_124.php
  • Other stuffs for structure: http://www.profilialluminio-online.it/pomolo_maschio_vendita_97.php

Notes
I've not decided yet which motors and electronic board I want to use; for sure I will use something like 60:1 or higher for motor. Regarding electronic I'm orientated to JRK with 2 HP PSU, but I'm really seduced by Sabertooth with Arduino..I really don't know for now. In any case I will use Hall Effect potentiometer.

This post will be updated anytime I will make a decision.

Another very useful resource regarding PID is this one:
https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/a-laymans-analogy-guide-to-pids.7649/
Among others, this site includes @Avenga76's famous video:
https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/a-laymans-analogy-guide-to-pids.7649/#post-91827

Nice small guide @Bernd Manger !

Today arrived my new seat... very well made. I've attached some photos at this post.

Regarding electronics, i'm 90% convinced to use 2 JRK+ classic HP PSU...but I want to take more time to make final decision

Now I'm thinking about structure.

• I will use this type of profile for entire structure, which is very resistant
  • http://www.motedis.it/shop/Profilat...o-45x45S-scanalatura-10-tipo-B::99999417.html

• For angles of base, I want to use this:
  • http://www.motedis.it/shop/Accessor...angolo-45-tipo-B-scanalatura-10::9999977.html
• and to make structure more resistant I will think to use this:
  • http://www.motedis.it/shop/Accessor...lo-45x90-tipo-B-scanalatura-10::99999634.html.
• I don't know if It's better to use directly this cube:
  • http://www.motedis.it/shop/Accessor...e-cubo-45-tipo-B-scanalatura-10::9999975.html
• Anyway, I want to use this base foot for structure:
  • http://www.motedis.it/shop/Componen.../I-piedini-livellatori-Acciaio::99999465.html
    
  • or this: http://www.motedis.it/shop/Componen...labile-di-livellamento-piedino::99999135.html

• To make stand for steering wheel and pedal, I'm thinking to use same profile of structure, and use this two things to make it adaptable to different heights,
  • http://www.motedis.it/shop/Accessor...zione-45-tipo-B-scanalatura-10::99999357.html
  • http://www.motedis.it/shop/Componen...aggio-con-filettatura-esterna::999991303.html
• My idea is to mount it like this video, I think that can works:
• To make base for pedal and steering wheel adaptable to different angles, I want to use this (with the same lever):
  • http://www.motedis.it/shop/Accessor...zione-45-tipo-B-scanalatura-10::99999366.html
    

Hi to all,

It's been passed time since the last time I wrote, but I've worked hard on my simulator. First of all, finally I've decided to use JRK.

For now, I've built the base using 45x45 profile. I've used spacers to create a suspended base where electric wires will pass and i've bought anti-vibration feet wich can support up to 500KG .(photo: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7).

After that, i've prepared the base under the seat with 4mm aluminium plate. I've used the original holes of seat (photo: 8).

Finally, i've build the structure for steering wheel and pedal (It's easy to see that i've inspired my work to @noorbeast 's simulator) with 40x40S aluminium profile. The plate for steering wheel and pedal is 4mm. (photo: 9,10).

So in the final photo of this post (photo: 11) you can see the structure as it should be. I like my solution, but maybe i've made a fatal error; structure of steering wheel and pedal (photo 9) is too heavy. Its weight 6Kg and in the future I want to use Fanatec steering wheel and pedal (wich weighs 7 KG). In fact, I've tried to place plate under the seat (to make a try, without fix any bolts) and i've inserted this structure...now the center of the base under the seat it's inclined

My decision to use 40x40 profile comes from the table attached here (photo 12), wich says that Inertia of this profile is 9cm^4 so i've thinked its very resistant...but weighs 2,70Kg/m...so maybe this is a overkill. I'm thinking to make all of structure in photo 9 more lighter.

What do you think if I use the profile in photo 13 ? Is 30x30 and has Inertia 2,70cm^4 and weighs 0,80 Kg/m. I do not know if it can be strong enough, maybe it's to light? . I haven't any problems to reoder this kind of profile..it's important to make a good job.

I think that another thing to do to avoid unwanted blending is to make structure in photo 8 with more points of grip..but i'm not sure

Any other suggestion is appreciated

@mirkobastianini - I love that R/C servo video in your first post! Also, thanks for that lock/swivel video. I need that!

Will be following your build closely since I'm also doing strut. Is that plate solid aluminum or composite?

Nice work!

Thank you for your words @Zed , I really appreciated it.

Unfortunatly, I've tried on my skin the lock/swivel, and I can confirm that the black lever can't be strong enough to sustain a plate for pedal...maybe can be replaced with only a bolt..I don't know if can be sufficient. Tomorrow I will make a try

I realise this was discussed quite a few posts back... but just in case it helps anyone.

The question was asked what are the disadvantages of the SMC3 code with the following response

Correct there is no filtering on the analog inputs.

You will note where appropriate the PID calculations are scaled before performing the integer math effectively giving a 2 decimal place precision. This is more than enough for driving a sim. Ultimately you are limited by the ADC and PWM resolutions anyway which are same for both micros used in Arduino and JRK.

The bug is with the "CutoffLimitMin1" not the dTerm. If you do a search for the CutoffLimitMin1 you will see it is used in the main loop in three places whereas it should be "CutoffLimitMin1", "CutoffLimitMin2", and "CutoffLimitMin3". Easy to correct.

Probably a greater disadvantage of the SMC3 code compared to the JRK is that JRK uses the overtemp and current feedbacks from the driver IC to help minimise out of spec operation and limit damage to the h-bridge. This is not implemented in SMC3.

EDIT: to help clarify, the JRK12V12 uses a PIC18F14V50 micro (datasheet) which has a 10bit ADC.

However if you use Sabertooths with SMC3 then it prevents any damage to its h-bridges on its own.

Thanks @RufusDufus .

I don't know if this is true, because based on my knowledge, Arduino's ADC has 10 bit resolution and JRK's ADC has 12 bit resolution...this means that with JRK you have 4096 (2^12) "little steps" for represent values of motion, instead with Arduino you have only 1024 (2^10) "little steps". For example, ADC of Fanatec pedals are made with 12 bit resolution. Many of us thinks that 1024 little steps are enough for simulator (the weakest element of the chain of simulator is the human sensitivity), so in my opinion its a personal choice.

Anyway, this thing it was discussed here: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/better-arduino-saber-or-jrk.9831/ and I prefer to don't talk of it in this thread to make all clean.

First of all, I must repair this big problem Any suggestion? It's very appreciated

Ok, it's clear... so, in my mind I'm thinking to doing 4 things:

1) Do the universal joint's base about 35cm height. This means that 35cm+7cm of Universal joint=42cm of height...like a normal chair, so in this way I think i've maximized the leverage length for motors.

2) Use the 30x30 profile, as I said in the post before. My fear is about the inertia and the real strength of that profile. In fact, if I use this kind of profile, my structure become around 3/4KG, wich is more light. But maybe, this can cause unwanted destruction, because the inertia of this profile is much less. So, I should need suggestion from persons on this forum, wich are more expert than me, if is the case to do this change. It's a good choice to use this kind of profile or It's better to stay with my original 40x40?

3) Brace the structure to seat. in your opinion, what should you do to fix how the structure is braced to seat?How I can reinforce it?

4) Change the thickness of pedal's plate. In fact, i've used plate with 4mm of thickness...maybe it's too much. Wich is better? 2mm? or 3?

Thanks

Perfect.

Ok, so if You have used light wall tubing with reinforcing plates I think that your structure is very light..maybe around 3KG (without steering wheel and pedals). Mine it's very heavy, it's 6KG without nothing attached...Just to give you an idea, I struggle to hold it suspended with one hand. I'm seriously thinking to buy another 30x30 profile and do structure another time from scratch.

What thickness do you suggest to use for pedal's plate? Here in Italy I can choose between 1,5mm, 2mm, 3mm and 4 mm(wich is too much). And for steering wheel? It's better to stay with my 4mm or buy something lighter?

Ok, if i remember well your thread, you have used 40x40 angle with 4mm of thickness...right?

Thanks noorbeast

Thank you noor!

And another question to all.. It's strictly necessary to give an angle to pedal plate? I ask this because i've see that your simulator (noorbeast) has a little angle that go to pedal frame.

I ask this because, as you can see from photo attached, I have 90° angle that goes directly to plate, and I don't know if I should give another angle to pedal plate... In my original idea, I've thinked to use lock/swivel , but i've seen that it's not enough strong, so I've abandoned the idea..

Now I do not know if it's better to not create angles (and directly take advantage of the pedal angle itself) or to think an alternative solution to attach something to the aluminum profiles and create the desired angle... Any suggestion?

I've seen this from motedis.com,
http://www.motedis.it/shop/Accessor...o-45G-30-scanalatura-8-tipo-B::999991025.html
but I think 45° it's too much

Ok, i dont think i have a problem of pitch down, because my base is 40cm from ground.. Anyway, i will make a try.

So, do you think its only a comfort question? I never tried fanatec pedals, maybe they have a angle too. Now i have a logitech driving Force GT and i can use it on floor and its not bad.