2DOF compact seat mover

looking good dude

Tighten them belts up.

...simple triple monitor base for desk use.

...the wooden "base" can slide forward on the desk to embrace the driver when driving or backward to leave space for the keyboard and mouse(for games that require mouse and keyboard that is ).

my new dashboard driven by

AChub

my display configuration:
speed in km/h(3 digits)
gear(1 digit)
rpm in thousands point hundreds(2 digits below 10.000rpm and 3 digits above 10.000rpm)
e.g. 5100rpm=5.1 and 11600rpm=11.6

@pipis2015 dash driven by what software?

Above dash is powered by this:
http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...ltigame-rgb-leds-lcd-v1-9-0-2015-09-22.23329/

My first attempt to fit the dash was this:



But after some thought, i didnt want any cablework floating around the steering axle so i went for a more simple approach.


First fit was ok.

"ingredients":
a)A plastic project box of the proper size to fit the tm1638 board (and have some extra space to fit a few toggle switches at the sides to take advantage of the 8 buttons of the board)
b)A piece of plexiglass
c)Some rough cutting drilling and sanding

The project needs some polishing of course and a final touch with 3d carbon-fibre sticker for some more pro look.

Total cost: less than 20 euros.
Fun factor: "priceless".

bonus POV nightshots :

awesome dude and like you say the price is brill

some detailed pics of the display.







I chose this config to keep the reset button handy

Very nice building and detailed post!

I found this interesting page with info on how to:

Emulate Thrustmaster T500 GT Wheel electronics with Arduino


...fact is that i ve been looking for something like this for a while now.

Since the t500rs wheel has more than enough buttons...it makes it a lot easier to mod the base with an aftermarket (300mm-330mm) racing wheel and put some (up ot 13 in fact) buttons on it...or even equip the wheel with rotating shifter paddles that send their signal through the arduino board directly to the base electronics.

cost: 34 eur
cylinder(+reservoir): 12eur
sensor: 16 eur
adapter: 6 eur

i am planing to fit the sensor directly on the pressure output (leaving a small pocket of trapped air) and see how it feels.

i also designed a mini-chasis that i will use as a platform to fit the cylinder assembly on the pedals without damaging them.


paper preview:


and how it will fit the pedals




its a multi purpose chassis that can be used for every pedal (eg for a realistic clutch pedal modification) and can be securely bolted to the oem screw holes.



the tilt will ensure that a small amount of trapped air (which will be used as travel regulator) will remain permanently inside the cylinder.

I finaly had the time to finish my wheel button plate.

Was an easy job.

Some rough drawing...


Some paperwork for fitting tests...



A trip to the local workshop...


Some drilling/sanding/brushing ... and voilà...


when i get more time i ll paint the surface some matte black color...and start with the circuitry.

Fitted...

vs stock...

The wheel is a 31cm (stock is 29cm) chinese knockoff from ebay (30 usd).
Hand stitched fake leather...but...
Very good value for money for a race sim.

nice wheel mod @pipis2015 . what's the diameter of the wheel?

The wheel is a 31cm (stock is 29cm) chinese knockoff from ebay (30 usd)
Hand stitched fake leather...but...
Very good value for money for a race sim.

The plate is 1,5mm thick.
I think 1,0 mm would also be ok.

i know its not that bigger than the stock one but does it have any difference in FFB perhaps some more clipping?

My early experience is this:

1) The extra size-diameter (although only +2cm) makes for a nice difference in feel (Maybe a placebo?).

2) The fake leather (which is also padded) feels better (and softer) than the oem rubber/plastic coating (I don’t use gloves so far).

3) I didn’t feel any noticeable change in FFB.

EDIT:
4)The wheel feels like more in proportion to the graphics(while this is true it is also hard to explain considering there are ways to tune the graphics no matter what ones wheel size is).

My 2cents regarding T500rs FFB and clipping (I hope I wont start a war).

As long as you have correct in game settings (which is what most people tend to mess up) and keep the master FFB in the T500rs driver panel between 50%-70% then you don’t have almost no clipping at all.

Check the chart.

http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.p...que-Capability?p=327348&viewfull=1#post327348

50% is more linear at top end (80%-100% game transmitted torque) and 70% is more linear on the low end (0%-20% game transmitted torque).

So what is the notorious "so called" T500rs clipping issue.

Well the T500 rs is a 6nm wheel. (most everyday cars dont even reach that number on their steering wheels).

So every user attempting to make the wheel feel stronger than this is doomed to induce clipping on the top end.

Actually if someone wants to feel on the T500rs the torque of a 1980 F1 car (a lot more than 6nm obviously)that means that he has bought the wrong wheel. For comparison purposes the g27 is a 3nm(if i recall) wheel and the Direct drive wheels can go beyond 30nm.

The following link provides some good info on the issue.

On page 3 you can read what was “the peak torque a driver could transmit with his hands to the steering column while seated in the car”.

http://www.sae.org/students/cockpit_control_forces.pdf

the following video is for those who want to study “a little” more.

good project!
what's new? How is the feeling?

About the prices, could you share the URL where you found such cheap parts...

i have not put it together yet, Mat. (wheel mod+diy bass shaker+hyd brake are all going along slowly at the same time).

here are the links:
sensor
http://m.ebay.com/itm/DC-5V-300-PSI-Water-Gas-Fuel-Air-Pressure-Sensor-Transducer-Cable-Length-30cm-/262217267612

pump
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Go-Rear-Brake-Master-Cylinder-Pump-Kit-For-Honda-VFR400-RFV400-CB250-CBR600-/181608776756

adapter
http://m.ebay.com/itm/1-8-NPT-Female-To-M10x1-0-Male-Reducer-Oil-Pressure-Gauge-Adapter-Black-/171178029864