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Motor to seat connections (rods)

Discussion in 'Electronic and hardware generally' started by Barry, Oct 14, 2015.

  1. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    I was just wondering if anyone has experimented with different materials for the connecting rods from the motor levers to the shoulder mounting points.

    I've finally managed to get back working on my frame and I need to suss out motor mounting points, traction control etc. One of the things I was thinking about was the stiffness and responsiveness of the rods and end links.

    I'm thinking about using 10mm or 12mm carbon rod and some stainless rose joints as I don't really like the idea of using threaded bar as it tends to flex under load sometimes.

    What has most people used?
  2. bsft

    bsft

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    I use brass bush rod ends feeding onto threaded rod. But if the connecting arm is long, I use a length of 20mm box steel, then I weld on the threaded rod
    2014-03-20 11.14.30.jpg
    @Nick Moxley , uses a ball joint of some description, maybe he can tell us.
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  3. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    SQ10-RS is the Rod ends I stand by, They are far more robust vs a Standard rod end and offer far more "angle" to play with.
    For the Rods, I went to my Local Home Depot and got a 3' Long piece of 3/4" round stock. Welded bolts on the end and Polished.


    [​IMG]
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  4. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    I used threaded rods. Get some metal emt condouit to go over the rod, then crank down the nuts on the emt top and bottom. It stiffens everything up very nicely.
  5. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    Screenshot_2015-10-23-05-33-31.png
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  6. Archie

    Archie Eternal tinkerer

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    Hi @jem45472 , just something to watch for in the method you have used, if the the threaded rod is not a real snug fit in the conduit it may "slap about" inside the conduit. I did the same as you for my shoulder mount sim (I converted from foot to Shoulder) and I found after a few runs of DIRT Rally (which does punish a 2 DOF), my rods were starting to "bow" because the threaded rod was actually bending inside the conduit. It might not happen to you, but just something to watch for :)

    I ended up hammering a 10mm nut into the top of the conduit and tack welding it so I could get a small length of threaded Rod into it, then once in, I screwed on the ball joint and welded all around the edges. (The nut was to make sure the ball joint was flush and dead on straight)

    It never ceases to amaze me the forces that are in play on these Sims!
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  7. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    I'll have to keep an eye on it. It's been a couple years so far and no problems. Thanks for the heads up.
  8. Archie

    Archie Eternal tinkerer

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    My apologies @jem45472 - I thought you were the OP and this was a new build. :)

    I expect the conduit you used was better than the one I used, to be going strong after a few years.
    Mine lasted less than a week ;)
  9. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    OK, so after doing some general research I think I might end up going down the carbon route. The price isn't that bad, stiffness, and strength is excellent and it looks pretty good too. They're a big part of the sim so i'd like to get the strength and function as good as possible whilst also saving some weight.

    Here's where I can get some carbon woven tube: http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/...re-tube/glossy-3k-woven-finish-20mm-18mm.html

    Although I could also get slightly cheaper versions from the same place.
    I think these combined with SQ10-RS track rod ends and some 18mm steel bar with 10mm threads on one end to connect the track rod ends to, would be a good way to go.

    The 18mm bar could insert into the carbon tube and be bonded inside and also drilled to put a bolt right through everything to hold it ridgid with the use of something like this:
    [​IMG]

    and saddle washers:
    [​IMG]
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  10. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Cant find any 3/4" Round stock any where ? If you want the carbon look, Wrap the steel in some CF Vinyl.
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  11. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    Availability isn't an issue. I'm thinking about strength and stiffness per lb. In terms of cost it's actually fairly similar too.
  12. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    I would fear the strength issue, 1mm walled CF tube's aren't all that strong to begin with.
  13. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    I've emailled a seller to see if I can get 3mm walled tube. I'll see what they come back with.
  14. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    Just found a seller that can supply square bar, for example; 20mm square bar with a 14mm round bore in the center.
  15. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    Scrap that idea. Found a seller with 22mm OD and 16mm ID tubes. A 3mm wall should be pretty strong.
  16. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Whats the price tho ?
  17. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    I've emailled to try and find out.
  18. Barry

    Barry Active Member

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    Got a price for 25mm OD x 19mm ID
    $19 USD per meter.
  19. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Ouch, so roughly 4X the cost of steel.....i would go for some Steel and wrap em. :thumbs
  20. Raymann

    Raymann New Member

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    image.jpeg Hi
    I use this.is low coast ,and it works.
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