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2DOF - JRK / Winch - Build Thread

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by boosted-lt1, Mar 31, 2014.

  1. boosted-lt1

    boosted-lt1 Member

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    Hey Guys,

    I'm finally getting around to building something I've always wanted - a motion simulator for flying and driving. I'm attempting to do both on a single rig using JRK's and winches; starting with 2DOF and with the potential to add traction loss and heave later on - we'll see how it goes!

    First, here are some old jpegs using Sketchup from about 2 years ago. These show the basic idea I'm after although the final result will certainly look a bit different. Here I was considering use of Wipers, Wormgear motors, or Winches.

    20 roll.jpg -20 deg.jpg +20 deg.jpg fbd.jpg iso 2.JPG iso.jpg

    I've decided to use Winch motors driven by JRK's. Thanks to fellow board member @Historiker for all the information and help with part selection - and also for selling me a pair of JRK 12v12's. Thanks buddy :thumbs

    Now that purchasing the hardware is almost complete - here is a bill of material. It adds up quick doesn't it?

    BOM_3-30-14.JPG

    More basic info. Nothing final in terms of the images shown, but some important data for estimating/calculating:
    • Movable Platform Weight
    • Frame Angle vs Resultant G-load Experienced - 60 deg would be nice, ehh? :D
    • Approximate Limits of JRK 12V12 in Amps & Watts.
    • Approximate Weight of Steel Tubing for Given Length & Cross Section. Emphasis on keeping weight minimized. I've gone with 2x1" and 1x1" @ 0.060" for the movable frame.
    Misc_3-30-14.JPG

    The plan is currently to see how everything works with a single 575W HP Server Power Supply driving 2 axis for pitch & roll. This should support 24 Amps per motor. A second P/S can be added if needed (I was able to buy 2 power supplies). Thanks again to @Historiker. Since we're talking power, here's a wiring diagram.

    Wiring Diagram_3-30-14.JPG

    From the power supply forward everything is fused. 10AWG wire per axis for the motor, using an automotive relay to shut off power from the cockpit. Here is a link to the reasoning behind this approach (using a relay) and a few of the main bullet points:

    http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/emergency-stop-switch-wiring.5132/#post-50954
    1. No AC Voltage in the cockpit
    2. No High-Amp DC Voltage in the cockpit (Since the Stop Switch is 12v but low amp)
    3. Longer life of the Stop Switch (Figure with the cost of the 2 relays you could just plan to replace the switch as needed. Probably not a huge issue as eaorobbie mentioned)
    4. Since the switch is now on a low-amp circuit (only for turning the relay on and off) I don't need to run 10AWG gauge wire all the way to the cockpit and back. This keeps the feed wire to the motor controller as short as possible, which is a good thing!
    Next, feedback for the motor controller. For this I'm going to try a 12 tooth, 1.5 Module gear driven from the 65 tooth output gear on the winch. This should give a max of 2.7 turns using a 10 turn pot. We'll see how this works. The very last gear in the winch drivetrain (gear #3/65 tooth) has the most torque so the parasitic loss from the gear and pot will be minimized. It would be possible to get more turns using a gear closer to the motor gear, and I may try that later on.

    Winch Gearing_3-30-14.JPG

    For cooling the JRK's I'll use heat sinks and fans, with the boards mounted to a plastic substrate on standoffs to allow airflow to the back side of the board. I've got 60mm and 80mm fans to play with as well as small heat sinks courtesy of Historiker. An old Aluminum heatsink could also be cut up to try - A couple of cheap thermometers can be attached to the larger heat sink to monitor the board.

    JRK 1.JPG
    Temp Gauge 1.JPG

    A few pics of the frame progress made today

    Seat 1.JPG
    Frame 1.JPG
    Frame 2.JPG

    More to come. I'll try to have an update once a week or so, and I'm positive I'll have plenty of questions as it gets closer to powering this contraption up and creating profiles. Many thanks to all involved on this board!! ;)

    Thanks!
    Scott
    • Like Like x 5
  2. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    Nice project! You can look at the thread I just started for an easy way to kill power to the jrk's. The pins you need to short to turn on power supplies, just run them up to toggle switches. No power going through the lines at all. Turn the switch on and you are contacting the 3 pins and powering the supplies.
  3. boosted-lt1

    boosted-lt1 Member

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    Thanks jem! Good idea on a remote toggle for the power supplies.

    A little bit more on the frame from today. Had it tacked together and back apart a few times to get it right (or at least close enough for me :D). Lengthened the frame 4.5" for a bit more pedal room.

    Frame 4.JPG Frame 5.JPG
  4. Historiker

    Historiker Dramamine Adict Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Looks good, it sure was a nice day to work with the doors open. I am hoping that spring moves quicker to more nice days.
  5. boosted-lt1

    boosted-lt1 Member

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    It sure was a great day to be outside here in Michigan. Finally some relief from the cold weather.
  6. boosted-lt1

    boosted-lt1 Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Figured I would post a small update after a long delay on the project. Right now I have the upper frame set up as static and my son and I are having fun playing with Oculus DK2.

    2 bass shakers provide some nice vibration through the frame. Aura 50W shakers powered by a Dayton 100W subwoofer amp.

    Today I started the lower frame using an old driveshaft to provide a maximum of about ~33degress pitch/roll.

    Best regards

    static 1.JPG static 2.JPG lower 1.JPG lower 2.JPG
    • Like Like x 3
  7. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    I've been having fun with the dk2 myself. Wait till you try assetto corsa with shakers, motion, and the rift.

    Lots of fun.
  8. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    Great to see you progressing your project further @boosted-lt1, I will keep an eye out for the next installment.
  9. boosted-lt1

    boosted-lt1 Member

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    @jem45472 - I agree AC & DCS World should be absolutely amazing with the rift and some motion. I hope the camera tracking doesn't become a big issue

    @noorbeast - Thanks man!

    Here's an update from today. Made a mounting plate for the top of the driveshaft and got the upper frame bolted on. The total movement looks pretty impressive, not sure if it will be realistic to use all that travel with a pair of winches.

    The craziest thing happened when welding one of the side supports to the driveshaft. All of a sudden I hear what sounds like an Estes rocket motor going off. I lifted the welding helmet and there was 8 or 10 inch orange flame shooting out from a pin hole in the weld - like a blowtourch :eek: I've never seen anything like that, I can only guess heat+paint burning+some O2 inside of the driveshaft tube and bang! Now that I think about it, this driveshaft uses a smaller tube inside of the outer tube, sealed with rubber to reduce vibrations. When I burned through the outer wall, there was either some rubber burning back in there, or a perfect rubber-sealed chamber between the inner and outer pipes for a lot of pressure to build. I will have to be careful when I finish welding that area o_O

    photo 4.JPG photo 1.JPG photo 2.JPG photo 3.JPG
    • Like Like x 1
  10. eaorobbie

    eaorobbie Well-Known Member SimTools Developer Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Wow that's gunna have some movement , mmm Seatbelts might be a nice option.
    Be interesting to see it all in motion. Nice job.
  11. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    You are really making progress now!
  12. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    Gonna need a ladder to climb in there!
    • Funny Funny x 2
  13. boosted-lt1

    boosted-lt1 Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Did a little bit more work on the winches, JRK mounting plate and soldering. Not real happy with how soldering the board came out, I hope it works.

    Winch uses a one-way motor bearing (Boca HF1012) which needs to be replaced
    Winch 4_HF1012 One Way Bearing 2.JPG

    Bearing replaced with Boca HK1012 which rotates in both directions
    Winch 6_HK1012.JPG

    In process of wiring the first Winch motor for 10AWG wire (16 gage is what came on these winches)
    Winch 5.JPG

    JRK's soldered (not my day job :think)
    JRK Solder 1.JPG JRK Solder 2.JPG JRK Solder 3.JPG JRK Solder 4.JPG

    JRK mounting plate. One 80mm fan will sit above and heat sinks will be added
    JRK Mount 2.JPG JRK Mount 1.JPG

    Drilling out the POT gears to 1/4" and adding 10-32 set screw
    POT 1.JPG POT 2.JPG
    • Like Like x 1
  14. bsft

    bsft

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    soldering looks a tad rough, but as long as connections not touching each other its ok. Once everything is wired up, just triple check.
    Otherwise, looks good man,
    • Like Like x 1
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  15. boosted-lt1

    boosted-lt1 Member

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    Just a small update. Been working very slowly off and on and really hope to have the motors mounted and wiring started soon in the coming weeks

    First and foremost got the garage cleaned up a little so I can work :). Added a picture of some of the equipment. I bought a little horizontal bandsaw from Harbor Freight which has been working really well. I've been using that more regularly than the chop saw at the moment
    Shop.JPG Shop 2.JPG

    Here's a pic testing the initial geometry. This gave me a little confidence that the thing could actually move :D There you can see that bandsaw. I think it was about $200 on sale.
    Frame 12.JPG

    Some additional frame work, mounting for the Oculus camera, and seatbelt.
    Frame 14.JPG Frame 13.JPG
    Frame 15.JPG Frame 16.JPG
    Frame 17.JPG Frame 18.JPG

    Components for the connecting rods. ½”-20 threaded rod and rod ends using ¾” tubing. This should give plenty of adjustability for testing of the the arm length, shorter and longer. The High Misalignment Spacers are neat and allow about 29 degrees of rotation without bind.
    Conneting Rods 1.JPG Conneting Rods 2.JPG
    Conneting Rods 3.JPG Conneting Rods 4.JPG
    Conneting Rods 5.JPG Conneting Rods 6.JPG

    And last but not least, some team members

    Manufacturing Manager - 'Blacky'
    1.JPG

    Quality Engineer - 'Grey'
    2.JPG

    Plant Manager - 'Socks'
    3.JPG

    Thanks for looking guys and best of luck on all your projects. Once I get the basics done I will have a lot of questions - Thanks to the community in advance.

    Scott
    • Like Like x 3
  16. Alexey

    Alexey Well-Known Member

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    I would strongly recommend you re-flow the solder joint on "A" in the picture jrk-solder-1. It looks like it's only got about 60% coverage. If you can get some from any local electronics stores, get some liquid flux. dab a drop of it over the joint and put your soldering iron on it for about 2 seconds and it will cleanly re flow the solder and end up with a pro looking finish. It almost looks like your soldering iron is too cold on those joints, if you iron has temperature control make sure it is sitting at 350 degrees C or 662 degrees F. It's either too cold or the tip of the iron is too small to conduct the required heat.

    Some nice toys you have to play with, I barely see linishers in peoples sheds these days.
  17. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    Great progress, love the production management crew!
  18. boosted-lt1

    boosted-lt1 Member

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  19. Alexey

    Alexey Well-Known Member

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    You only need a tiny drop of the flux per solder joint, so I would suggest using something like an eye drop bottle.
    Flux itself is also quite messy and sticky so you will also need something like isopropyl alcohol + small hard bristle brush to clean the board after you are finished.

    By the end of it all you'll end up with a full soldering station kit :) .
    • Agree Agree x 1
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  20. Kirk

    Kirk Member

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    Another piece of advice:

    Use Kimwipes when removing the excess flux, ie. place Kimwipe on board then brush on isopropyl, which flows the flux from the board onto the Kimwipe.

    Don't use paper towels. If you don't have a Kimwipe, use coffee filters (the type you would use with a 4 or 10 cup automatic drip coffee maker).

    That said, Kimwipes are probably cheeper, and useful any time something requires a "lent free cloth". When removing flux, they are a god send.

    If flux gets too "icky" to remove with isopropyl and Kimwipe, you can use acetone / Kimwipe, but *be gentle*... Some china boards's solder mask aren't as resilient as higher quality boards.
    • Useful Useful x 2