JRK issue of interest solved...after a long time

Ive been building sims for nearly 4 years, including 3 "all in ones". Yet I still learned a lesson.
My personal ride was using for power a car battery and 13.8v psu as charger.
Ive had big motor sim and actuator sim on that power supply.
Ive had issues where the jrk mysteriously drops out meaning I have to unplug it, power it down and let it reset.
Despite endless fiddling with PID, motor power settings, even changing pots, wires, usb cable and even re-installing windows and jrk drivers, using different usb ports, I still had issues of drop outs.
Even changing settings in Simtools, increased, decreased timing, 7 bit, 12 bit rates, different versions of simtools
It finally occured to me that in my case, the car battery with 13.8v power was the issue.
Not exactly sure how, but I put on 2 x 12v psu, one per motor. Sure enough, problem stopped.
Bugger me, it seems for some reason the 13.8v and or the car battery being a feed for both JRKS was the issue.
Even though JRKS are protected to 40v, for what we are doing, and in my case, using a 12v psu per motor stopped drop outs.
Dunno why, it just fixed it after nearly a year of confusion on my personal ride.
Another thing to look at when working with JRKS.
Cheers, David.

Are you saying that the Jrk's are tripping on voltage overload?

I've been running my 2dof seat mover with a calcium 700cca car battery with a charger putting 15 to 16 volts across the teminals and no issues with drop outs.

I did fry a couple of Jrk's by having a stray earth caused by noise suppression capacitors on a wiper motor. Prior to the smoke escaping there was a lot of erratic behavoir including drop outs and screen flicker on the displays.

I also noticed that the erratic comms were consistent with damage done to the board. I would check any sources of back feed via any wires contacting the frame.

Had an issue with an rc helicopter a few years ago, the tail rotor belt was electrically isolated so as to create a "Jacobs ladder," all the servos would twitch and burn out. After replacing all the servos and reading extensively about tail belt discharge the solution came in the form of a $3 can of "Mr. Sheen" anti static spray only after buying a $300 DX7 transmitter I didn't need.

Regards
Shane

I have 3 JRK's powered by the same car battery. No drop outs yet here! It's very important the the wires between battery and JRK are kept as short as possible!

as said, it is with my personal ride. I used to have a re-wired pc psu on a car battery at the beginning for some time on earlier sims, 12v on car battery just fine.
@shanothegreat , no I dont believe its an over voltage issue. I am just saying that it is another thing to look at if anyones JRKS are dropping out.
As said, I really dont know , but going from 13.8v psu - car battery to 2 x 12v 40 amps psu solved a long time problem for me.
If you have a car battery-psu and its working, dont change it.

Hi!
Were your wires shielded?

Weird one , I have either ran on a 13.8v bat or an expensive 12v desktop lab power supply with no drops, yet to try the led drivers , pc psu never worked for me.
But great you found a solution that worked for you, thanks for sharing.

yes, all wires were shielded. Everything was replaced.
I had a further think, I have replaced the car battery about a year ago, before that, there was not a problem for me. Unless the newer battery is giving out higher spikes of voltage or something.
I really have no idea, except in my case, I fixed the problem. Its just another thing to look at when solving possible JRK problems.