Tutorial Mjoy16 USB AVR Joystick

Help

Please help me how to develop racing wheel for pc using this method

Is the mjoy16 compatible with codemasters F1 2010?

does anyone have or know where i the source code for the mjoy16 ?
because i want to increase the amount of toggle switches

No, source code is not available, and programer - Mindaugas - is no more involved with Mjoy16 project.

Sokol1

looks like i will have to make do with what i have got

If you are playing racing games, as suggestion would be to go and buy a proper wheel and pedals.
You could start with a Logitech Driving Force GT wheel and pedals if money is tight. These are a good force feedback wheel with shifter and brake accelerator pedals. They retail here in Australia from $139 to $199 depending on where you buy them from.
If you have loads of money look at the Logitech G27 setup. This is expensive but a complete set for racing. Prices here start at $499.
Do a net search and you may find something locally.
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Dear everybody. can some one to help me to send me a good firmware for Mjoy16 atmega16? until now my job still have the problem. when i connected to the pc my Mjoy16 was error unknown device.
thank you for your help

i have firmware base on micorchip pic18f2550 only. it can be use to make custom button, pedal, shift or what ever you like. but personally I never built my own wheel. Its not worth to built it yourself unless that is your hobby and you have so much time and money to be wasted.. I use Logitech dfgt and it has plenty of button on wheel you can use. that its just my advice. take it or leave it. :lol:

Ok, These are some pictures of an Mjoy16 that I built. It programs perfectly in PonyProg, but when I plug it into my Vista machine it's Not Recognized. I checked the traces, solder joints, continuity, and capacitor viability. I also tested the components to make sure the values were correct. My only suspect is the silver diode. It's labeled 1N4728A. I think it's a Zener, when it should be a 1N4148. I don't know whether that makes a difference.

I successfully programmed an MJoy8, so my programmer works fine. So, I could use some help. Thanks all.

Did you try it on a non-Vista machiene?

You need 3.3V zener diodes on the USB+ and USB- lines, anode to ground.

Well, this really sucks. I took another look at my MJoys and realized I'd mixed up the Zener and the hi-speed diodes. So I switched them and now neither device is recognized by windows. I was using TFK 1N914 diodes on the incoming voltage line (V+ and GND) instead of the 1N4728A's that I'd purchased. For some reason, with the 1N914's my Mjoy8 was happy. But when I switched to the 1N4728A diodes, it gave me the finger.

Incidentally Frakk, when you say USB+/-, do you mean the Data pins (2&3) or the Voltage pins (1&4)?

I tried it on a Windows 7 laptop as well, and it wasn't recognized.

Yes of course on the Data lines, you don't want to clamp the supply voltage to 3.3V. Which schematic did you follow?

The USB standard specifies maximum 3.3V on the data lines, with the zener you are only protecting the USB input of the PC so the microcontroller doesn't drive these lines with 5V. You still need 5V for power.

oops. dbl post

This is my Mjoy16

It looks ok.

Frakk

This (PCB) layout is the same previously used by Tirta. Work Ok.

mjoy16-usb-avr-joystick-t726-390.html

Appart diode model, I suspect of the USB cable used, with similar one some of my Mjoy dont work.

Sokol1

All right, I've really had it with this. I changed to a usb-b socket and I've tried several cables with the same result.

My mjoy16 has never worked and my mjoy8 worked fine (was recognized as 6 axis, 24 button) until I changed the diodes from 4148's to zener type. Then it died as well. WTF am I doing wrong? Is it possible that the inductor or capacitors are shot? How do I test that? How do I test a crystal for function? Are the diodes bad? I tested with my meter (diode setting) and they seem fine. I even tried a different atmega 16 with the same result.

Ugh.

Updated pictures

Fransky,

Generally, 99% of Mjoy faults is due bad soldering - or wrong components placement.
1% is component failure.

Re-check solder side with a magnifying glass, look for undesired contacts.

You sure that make security bits write procedure correctly?

When done, first unplug USB cable (power source for ATMEGA), then unplug and remove programer cable.

After plug USB cable to see if Windows recognize as Mjoy.

As I read incorrectly procedure result in crystal clock lock in 1 MHZ - so you need a clock generator to unlock.

I think that a bad inductor only stop axis to work, not Mjoy.

Sometime obvious is not obvious, the last Mjoy16 that I build aren't recognize by Windows.
I re-check trails, change all board components, and test ATMEGA with another PCB and work OK, another AMTEGA from a working Mjoy dont work in this board...
Put then in the drawer and I forgot.

About a year after I find this, looked in him and immediately note that the two Zener diodes where inverted!!! :

Resolder then and Mjoy work ok.

Sokol1

I'll do a closer check and see what's going on. And I'll change the tip on my iron. It could be shot.

Incidentally, is it SUT1 or SUT0 that should be checked? I know about Bootsz1 and Bootszy0, but I had a question about SUT.

Well, I did the unplug sequence according to the mindaugas website: LPT then USB. Maybe that's it. Where did you read about the external clock unlock?

Anyway, thanks for the directions. I'll let you know what happens.

Security & Bits configuration:



With PonyProgran try ready the .HEX write in ATMEGA, if all is done you are able.

About the external clock I read in some point of this extended thread in Sukoi Forum (in Russian), a long time ago.

http://www.sukhoi.ru/forum/showthread.p ... 406&page=1

And a guy in local forum (in Portuguese) find the same problem, solved with some device called clock generator.

My translation:

The same guy have problem with USB cables - with some generic Chinese brand Mjoy16 dont work.

Sokol1