Showroom Budget Compact 6DOF Universal VR Flight / Racing rig - MSFS, SMC3, FlyPT, Transducers, Controls

Hi guys, I am also building @Ronan Design amazing 6DOF with the 24V - 350W motors and 2x 1200W power supplies.
Control box same dimensions and mostly same components as original but with 3x dual channel 20A Cytrons MDD20A due to the bigger motors and additional 4 channels relay module as per @Martwana , for which I please ask the electrical plan to connect this one . And then planning to use @OrtiMai @Sebastian2 modified code.
I will post a quick photo showroom of my build if @Ronan Design grants permission with only photos and major changes to original design like bigger motors and my fixed 8020 extrusion profile rig on top, hopefully it will move all that and the extra Xmas food

That sounds well designed, with the right thoughts and conclusions. I wish you a good progress.

Feel free to use the improved stoppers. @Ronan Design (you might consider to use them in your package as well)

Hi @Martwana would you mind sharing the electrical diagram of the second relay board how it connects to the rest? Also the relay boards 5V supply how is done? Thanks in advance

Hi @Ronan Design in you download pack there is no instructions on how to connect the Deek-robot meters to the motors / power supply. I am still a noob on electrical stuff, considering I am using the 350W motors with 2x 1200W 24V power supplies and 3x Cytron MDD20A could you please advise how to connect them properly to ensure correct readings?
I also have the impression that these meters might not be good enough for the 350W motors. I share my ECB and the deek-robot connection diagram I found online.
Thanks in advance

Are you familiar with how to measure current and voltage?
There are videos on youtube how to connect them. Pay close attention to them and make sure, you understood how to aviod a high potential difference in your measurement system. Otherwise your cable will explode. If you're not sure, your welcome to share your drawing and we can try to review it. I think, the most important learning is, that you don't connect the white measurment wire to the PWM-side of the controller, but on the steady power supply.

Hi,

i also want to build such a sim rig. But i need to check the dimensions first befor i buy the plan.
Can someone tell me the dimensions of this build the ground triangale, hight until the seat mount etc. ??

THX

Hi

Hi Schorsch,
if you have a Cube of 2m in each direction, you should be good.

Feel free to write me a private message in German as well.

Been working on my version of this build as well. Sticking pretty close to the plans as written for now, currently on the hall effect sensor setup. So far so good.

Wanted to add a couple findings I haven't seen mentioned here or in the build guide:

1. The connectors for the motors are 6.3mm 4p automotive connectors. Using those connectors will work way better than sticking wires into the motor connectors or stripping the wires.
2. I had slight misalignment issues with the provided hall effect sensor arm model. Maybe just my cheap printer being inaccurate. A carefully applied heat gun will soften the PLA enough to allow the slight adjustment needed for centering without having to modify the file and reprint.

Thanks for sharing. No. 1 is very helpful. No. 2 I did the same. I think I mentioned here already. Heat it up a bit and let it relax, that it sits perfectly. This is very importand for a well working rig.

Thank you, I have checked various video and I think I understood how to connect the Deek Robot.
I made a quick schematic attached the way I understood it, would you mind checking it?
Now what I am left to understand is the connection of the second relay board as Martwana did then I can power up everything as the both base and top platform are all done.

Hi @Ronan Design @OrtiMai, I practically finished everything, I am missing only to upload the code to the arduinos and glue the motor arm hall sensors. I tried to power it up but for some reason 24V are not reaching the Cytrons MDD20A, if I bridge the relays directly to the cytrons I am able to move the motors manually with the buttons only in one direction, which I guess is normal.
The relay outputs 24V and the fuses also have 24V so the only thing it could be causing the issue are the rectifiers, I did connect them as per instructions, at least it seems I did properly. Are you able to please help on this issue?
Thanks in advance

I'm not 100% sure, but I think from your description, that you're facing the safety function. To prevent, that you get in any harmful situation, the engines get only powered, when they are in the designated area of angle. Please review the safety function in the code intensely and see under which circumstances the engines are powered up. Of cause, the hall sensors need to be assembled, as the sensor feedback is part of the safety function.

Does that help you?

Not really, with the self test button on the cytrons the motors should move in both directions but they move only 1 way, the other way is giving error and just make a strange noise but don't move. I saw @Ronan Design first power up video and he was moving the motors in both directions with the self test buttons without any firmware loaded in the arduinos.

Yep, if the

Well, if your motor controller is getting power, then you should be able to test it manually. FWD and REV buttons should work as you saw it in the video. Sadly I can't support you with MDD20A.