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Showroom Tips for building a 2Dof platform

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by SlayerFlyy, Dec 16, 2025.

  1. SlayerFlyy

    SlayerFlyy New Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Hi guys, my name is Alexander, I'm 21 and live in Kyiv. I've been into sim racing for a while now. So, after saving up some money, I decided to build myself a 2dof cockpit.

    I communicate through a translator, so don't judge my English too harshly. I'm learning a lot of words when I first encounter development.

    Electric motor 24 volts 350 watts 75 rpm geared - 2x
    BTS7960 - 2x
    Arduino Uno R3
    Pulse power supply 24V 20A (480W) 2 pieces, one per motor
    10 kOhm resistor - 2x


    I want to make a frame from aluminum profile of size 45x45, 45x90 and (30x60 for the hinge)


    I've already bought everything, even the chair. I have a couple of questions:
    1. How do I calculate the crossbar hinge height?
    2. Which motor position is better: rear or front?

    Thank you!

    I will also post photos of the structure. upload_2025-12-16_1-28-21.png upload_2025-12-16_1-29-37.png
  2. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, JRK
  3. SlayerFlyy

    SlayerFlyy New Member

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  4. SlayerFlyy

    SlayerFlyy New Member

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    I got a lot done today, but I still need to figure out the engine placement and mounting… that's going to be tricky…

    They also welded me a really nice hinge, twice the size of the previous one. It was supposed to be from a Nissan, but I'm not very knowledgeable about that, haha…

    I also installed the seat; I used a regular computer chair I bought on sale; it weighs about 11 kg.

    I'm still trying to figure out the best way to do all this, and I'll go to the supermarket for some fasteners.

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 1
  5. SlayerFlyy

    SlayerFlyy New Member

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    Hey everyone! I'm having a problem with the latest version of Mover Flypt.

    When I turn right in the game, the platform in real life tilts left. I understand that, based on centrifugal force and so on, this is how it should be (I think), but how can I change this, and can anyone help?


    I've attached some photos, you can use them to understand what the problem is.

    Perhaps you have some other recommendations from around the world. I love learning and receiving criticism. I look forward to hearing from you.

    upload_2025-12-18_1-34-42.png

    upload_2025-12-18_1-34-54.png
    upload_2025-12-18_1-35-4.png upload_2025-12-18_1-35-47.png
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2025
  6. SlayerFlyy

    SlayerFlyy New Member

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    Hey everyone, I took my platform for a spin today. Honestly, it's just awesome, I didn't expect that, I'm really happy about this. I spent three weeks working on it and finally finished it. So, I don't know how to make the platform tilt when I accelerate and brake. Does anyone have any ideas on how to do this?
  7. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    You do that by configuring surge.
  8. SlayerFlyy

    SlayerFlyy New Member

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    upload_2025-12-18_23-31-48.png
    Thank you for your quick response, could you please tell me what exactly needs to be changed here?
  9. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, JRK
    I don't use FlyPT, so others are better placed to advise, but please do see the FlyPT manual for core instructions: https://www.flyptmover.com/poses/pose-from-motion

    unnamed.png
    • Like Like x 1
  10. SlayerFlyy

    SlayerFlyy New Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, Arduino
    [​IMG]
    I currently need 24v 350w 45N fasteners. I couldn't find anything similar in the store.
    Print settings if needed
    PETG material, 75 degree build plate (250 degree nozzle), Bambu Lab A1 mini printer.
    Perimeters 3
    Layer 0.28
    Bottom 6
    Top 6
    Infill: Cubic 25%
    I made it for a 45x45 profile. The holes in the model are for an M8 bolt, just in case. Just reduce the model size so the motor fits properly, I think within 5mm of the width.

    I also added other models that I am currently using, and I will update and supplement the archive in the future.

    There are also files for CNC in DXF format, these are engine hinges.

    upload_2025-12-21_18-30-6.png


    upload_2025-12-21_18-30-19.png upload_2025-12-21_18-33-27.png

    Attached Files:

  11. SlayerFlyy

    SlayerFlyy New Member

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    I started the engines, but I can't figure out what's wrong with them. Help! I recorded a video and photos of the SmC3 settings.

    The engine runs in jerks and is very noisy.

    different photos and they all have the same problem
    https://youtube.com/shorts/gZKyFnRLfuU?si=rT4q-GEalwG9pAy3


    I suspect the problem is with the potentiometers, but what can I replace them with? Buying a Hall sensor is too expensive for me; mine costs about $150 for a 180-degree sensor.
    I was wondering about the AS5600; it seems to have an analog output (OUT). But I don't know if it will work. Please advise. Thanks.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 23, 2025 at 01:33
  12. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Try setting Fpwm to 25, PWmax to 180 and PWrev to 100, then rerun and post the Sine test.
  13. SlayerFlyy

    SlayerFlyy New Member

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  14. SlayerFlyy

    SlayerFlyy New Member

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    I talked to the GPT chat, and they recommend keeping the wire short, but mine is longer than 70 cm, from the potentiometer. Maybe I should make it shorter? I'm concerned about interference, even though I installed separate FIRIT rings on A0 and A1, and ran the negative power supply there from the same source.

    Also, I have a question: is a 10kΩ potentiometer from AliExpress better, or an AS5600 with an output via Out, which is the same analog output?
  15. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    The sound seems to be a pwm hum plus some other motor noise, is that correct?

    With respect to SMC3 settings please try PWmax to 200 and PWrev to 140, then rerun and post the Sine test.

    A 10k pots work but requires gearing, Hall 0-180 Degree Sensors are in my opinion far superior as they don't break if over rotated, are good resolution, and have a long life.

    Are you using IBT2 control boards, as members have reported quality issues even with brand new units, particularly if running them as 24v?
  16. SlayerFlyy

    SlayerFlyy New Member

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    I really liked what you wrote. Sorry for the late reply. Thanks for your help.

    I tried both belt and gear drives, but the results were worse than with direct drive, so I settled on this option.

    I also tried changing the settings. The problem is with the wires and potentiometers. They make noise simply when brought close to the motor or when the shaft is slightly bent. Sometimes they even just sit on the table and make noise even when the motor isn't running.

    Regarding the BTS7960 drivers, I agree. I bought 10 of them from different sellers, of which only two operate at 30 kHz and don't even get hot at 24 volts, but I installed cooling just in case.

    I also tested them by controlling them via the Arduino's COM port, and they work perfectly.