Sort of DIY

I bought a used (broken) DOF reality P3 cheap. As I only fly helicopters and small GA planes in MSFS, I found the backlash and cogging to be very jarring and totally immersion breaking. DR's putting together a kit like I'm building, but it will be some time before it's available for my model and the cost will be pretty high compared to what I paid for the machine. So I decided to mod it myself. I've mentioned this rig in a couple other thread but thought I should move it here and document the procedure. I want to start with a question though.
I purchased the 5:1 planetary gearboxes prior to doing the math. I even cut one to fit the motor. Was a serious learning curve regarding precision aluminum machining, but I now have the proper measuring tools and knowledge to do it; so i can't begrudge the $65 I spent on the box if it proves to be useless for my needs.
I can send the other gearbox back and get 3:1 boxes if the 5:1 stop-to-stop time is not acceptable. NOTE: I'm older with a not-so-great back, so I don't want to be slung all over the place.
I'm using the original motors and mounting point on the rig that DOF Reality used so I know the geometry works.
Here's my math.

Motor speed = 3000 RPM = 50 RPS
1605 ball screw = 5mm per/rotation
Total length of ballscrew travel = 70mm

5:1 GEARBOX: 50 RPS / 5 = 10 RPS = 1.4 seconds stop-to-stop.
3:1 GEARBOX: 50 RPS / 3 = 16.67 RPS = 0.839 seconds stop-to-stop.

Total distance of actuator arm travel = 92mm. This is 90 degrees of total rotation, using the existing DR actuator arm, with the seat link located in the last hole.

What do you guys think? Keep the 5:1 gearboxes so I only have to cut one more, or get the 3:1 gearboxes?

Gearbox input housing removed,

Mounted,

cut,

Finished,

Fitted,

It's alive(ish)...

Hello Noorbeast.
The unit isn't bolted down yet. Hence the bungee cord. I was just testing for clearance before I drill the holes in the the base and mount. I'm going out of town this weekend so I won't get to play with it, but I couldn't wait to see if it would move. Your right about the settings. There's a FB group dedicated to modding the DR machines. I have a request in for SMC3 and SRS settings from folks that have the manufacturer's SFU/planetary motors. I still have to put it through it's paces before I commit to making the second one. Cogging and backlash look pretty much nil even with the standard settings, but the speed needs to be increased. Still haven't ruled out the 3:1 planetary in place of the 5:1 that's on it. I hope to have it bolted in place and put some weight on it next week.

I swapped overt to the Phidget motor/planetary unit for more speed. I was concerned that the motors would be too weak but they are not. I still have to install the new cables and connectors as well as hook the original traction loss motor back up. It works very well in MSFS. No backlash or cogging at all (that I can feel anyways). I'm going to spend today trying to figure out Simhub, as I need it for the Razer haptic pad. First I'm going to fly around Manhattan for a couple hours though.

easy way to increase speed - use 1610 ball screw nut