Tutorial DIY 3D printed Sim Racing Hydraulic pedals SRT

@Thijs Marijn Lenssen I tried to export the step file from the MC holder, but it really gives weird results, I don't know why... I put the step file, and freecad file in attachment if you want to try to sort it out.
Which MC did you order ? most of them have 80mm between the two 8mm holes, so you should be ok right out of the box.

I have bought this one: https://m.autodoc.nl/stark/8059234 this is a master clutch cilinder from a car.

Could you also share the pedal? I might want to alter it so it pushes in the cylinder further to compensate for the smaller diameter of the cylinder.

@Thijs Marijn Lenssen I tried to export the lever to step, but the file is wrong...

I released the SRT gearbox :


You can see in the video the new GT pedal.
Here is the link to the Discord.

Hey, maybe you can help me. I built this setup with hydraulic brake. Everything is sealed, there is no leaks, i bleeded the cylinder like hundred times BUT when i press it with the lever the pressure is going down (same is going on in games control manager) and all the way down to max press. It looks like there is still air no matter how many liters i would bleed. Do you think is the master cylinder failure (maybe gasket cant hold the pressure)?

@WuciEk Honnestly I am not an expert in this kind of problem :/
I would say that it comes from the master cylinder too...

unfortunately my Epman cylinder failed me. There is leak in a push rod area :/ under that rubber cover there was some fluid :/

Hi all,
first of all i like to say : real amazing work @Lebois

I`m running on G27 Pedals and thinking about moding it into real car brake fealing for some time but because of my allmost longlife experience as a " real car mecanic"I didnt like the idea of using a system with brakefluid in my home very much. Its not a nice fluid you want on your skin or spilling somewhere at all.
Its made for hydraulic systems in real cars where you need other requirements for the liqued than in a normal hydraulic system... higher boiling point etc. all this is mentioned here before.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic means it absorbes water from the air, thats why it should be changed frequently in your real car.

To build a good hydraulic system its very important to have absolutly NO LEAKS and air in it.
NO teflontape is ever used on real brakes (even if you use alternative liquids your system should have no leaks just with the correct fittings) If you have no leaks even at full presure you dont have to worry about compressebilitys of liquids or influence of temperature...its not relevant in our sims.

Bleeding the system correctly is the second important thing, you dont want any super tiny little air bubbels in your system. Air can be compresed liquid not really... (to little to interesed us)

If you can pump up the pressure point means theres still air in there.(pressure point is coming higher after pushing the pedal 3-4 times)
If you push the pedal and pressure point goes down its more an indicator that theres a pressure loss means a leak.
Also important is that the caliper is fixed well and cant move around, that will change the feeling everytime you push the the brake as well.

The position of the the sensor doesnt matter in a hydraulic system the presure is everywhere the same.

I must say that I would never ever use this hydraulic components in my real car or even in a race car if i would have one but for sims its cool.

If some of this items fail and or leak its most likely because there not homologeted for real use or just cheap reproduction parts what you dont want in your real vehicle

So for me very interesting to see the ideas of using alternative liquids....FOR SIM ONLY....

Cooling liqued needs to lubricad well as well (waterpump etc)
Cocking oil could be an alternative too
Mineral oil does very often attack rubbers but its used in modern hydraulic bicycle brake systems so must be a special one or the other components have to resist that liquid.

I get rid of this cheap epman and just bought OBP master cylinder and DOT5 fluid. After that everything works fine and even after 30 minutes or 1 hour of hard racing it keeps pressure and there is no leaks

This guy made a 3D printed mounting plate for the SRT Pedals :
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4910786

I have bought a slave cylinder and want to connect it to my hydraulic pedals. I want to remove the brake caliper and connect this slave cylinder,


https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd?itemno=260-1333


but I don't know what connector I need.

Here I put a sample image of the connector I need.

https://postimg.cc/nCQ4rFBx
The measurements of the female connector of the slave cylinder are these 3 / 8-24 IF

I'm absolutely curious of how much force the plastic of the brake pedal can withstand without snapping?

I'll go down the route of designing and 3D printing my throttle pedal as there currently is nothing available on the market that would satisfy my needs (yeah, I currently have Ultimate+, but I much prefer the feel of my DIY damped throttle) and my DIY aluminum build is a bit too clunky for my taste.

Just not sure about the brake pedal. Don't want/need hydraulics on the brake but I'm aiming for around 100kg on the pedal face and I've been brainstorming a lot lately if that could be done by 3D printing and reinforcing the parts..

The main goal of my build would be to be as compact as humanly possible (HE Sprint dimensions or even smaller).

It's definitely possible to design a 3D brake pedal that will withstand 100kg of force. Placing the sensor pivot closer to the top will drastically reduce the flexing force. Print orientation makes a big difference and increasing the number of peripheral walls and infill percentage (Though not to 100%) will help too. Finally, you can design the pedal to integrate some bolts to help spread the load.

I've applied 100kg of force to Lebois' SRT P1 accelerator and never had an issue with it breaking while braking. The hydraulic mount is the weaker point in the system here, so I've designed it to be stronger than the stock one.
The great thing with 3D printing is that you can design it exactly how you want it and it's relatively easy to make some small changes and print again if required.

I used to use non used lever as an hammer.
One day I tried to break one by pushing as hard as I could with my two foots... didn't give up.
And I never heard of someone breaking one.

Soon

You hardly see anything.

I 3D printed pedals based on this design and there is no way I could break the brake pedal in any sim racing usage, even for super hard braking. You have to remember that at some point, pushing harder does not actually make the car brake faster, once the load cell max capacity is reached (500 PSI cell here)

The new P1 throttle and clutch pedals are online !


https://lebois-racing.com/srt-accelerator-pedal-p1

Hi Lebois
I have modified my G920 brake pedal to your hydraulic design . I am having some problems with the pressure sensor , it works in the opposite to the potentiometer. The potentiometer would have a 3.2V reading at the signal wire and when the pedal is actuated it would drop to 0.32V at full travel, the pressure sensor will go from 0.32 to 3.2V wich means ive got constant high pressure and when the pedal is actuated goes to low pressure in game. how did you overcome this problem? .I have used all the parts you have recommended.

Thank you