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Showroom Newbie with 2 dof

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by jem45472, Mar 28, 2014.

  1. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    I got you, thanks. The picture is not accurate, and I probably shouldn't have posted it like that. I was just trying to figure out first how to make an attachment that is above the bottom of the seat to avoid pushing and pulling from underneath if possible while keeping it as small a footprint as I can.
  2. Arta Yasa

    Arta Yasa Member

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    Hi sir, what method the best for 2dof with wiper motor sir??
    a directly connected rig, or a separate 2Dof from the rig? as in the picture
    Note : image from google for example.

    Attached Files:

  3. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    If using wiper motors I would do a setup with them attached to seat only. They're not powerful enough for anything else.
    Screenshot_20210325-195559_Chrome.jpg
  4. Arta Yasa

    Arta Yasa Member

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    That is motion with pedal and wheel sir??
  5. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    Those are not wiper motors, either are the ones I am using. Most of the sims you see on here are using heavier duty gear motors. They look the same, but are much stronger. If you are planning on using normal wiper motors, I advise you to build like the picture I posted above to you, or copy what I started with in this build thread.

    If you want to use bigger gear motors, then you will have more options.
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    Last edited: Mar 26, 2021
  6. Arta Yasa

    Arta Yasa Member

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    Yes sir, in that photo the pedals and steering wheel and the monitor move too ?? Or is it just the chair that moves? If I use a wiper motor it is possible to make movements including the steering wheel, pedals and monitor ?? Or just a chair, sir ??
  7. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    Better off with just chair. You might be able to move everything with them, but will really stress the motors, and they probably wouldn't last very long.

    These are the better motors to use, many of us are using them.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/GEAR-MOTOR...-/351066992384?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
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  8. Arta Yasa

    Arta Yasa Member

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    Yes sir thank you, my be if i make actuactor from motor 24v high speed and torqui with long drat m10 posible sir??.
    From your link realy expensive for me, iam student. $100 x2 .
  9. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    Calling on @noorbeast for your experience in multiple designs.

    I have the room to rebuild any way I want, but would preferably like a compact. I have messed with simcalc, but want some real world advice. My components are jrk1212's with 25:1 gearmotors. This is mainly going to be for elite dangerous, and some racing. My past setup was very fast and powerful with a typical shoulder mount design. Can my 25:1 drive the seat mover satisfactorily attached underneath the seat, or should I go up a little to past the leg height like yours. Or am I really better off with another shoulder mount design. If I could pull off the attachments under the seat at front or rear would be most compact, just don't know if it's best for the 25:1 motors, or if I'd be missing alot of the finer motion details going that way.

    Or maybe install motors under a pedal mount with only my hotas and stationary wheel on desk

    Thanks for your input.
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2021
  10. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    Now that I think of it, I probably will go for footpedal mounted motors. I should be able to maximize torque and speed that way, while keeping the bulk of sim under desk.
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2021
  11. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    And another question.
    Running an aggressive profile, sometimes my server psu would shut off. Would running a car audio 12v capacitor inline help my weaker psu's?
    Screenshot_20210330-001211_Chrome.jpg
  12. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    The 25:1s can work in a compact design, even connecting under the seat, for average weight users, though you want as much inherent design leverage as possible, so maximise the distance between the pivot to the rod connection point on the levers. For heavier users or limited leverage 60:1s are a better choice.
  13. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    I'm assuming foot mounted rod connection and stationary wheel should work well, while keeping everything hidden under desk?
  14. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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  15. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    Ok, won't be able to start working on new rebuild until vacation time in a few weeks.

    After having a shoulder mounted seat mover, I have decided to switch to a foot mounted design. It will be a little more compact as the bulk of sim will be under the computer desk. With the shoulder design during aggressive movements with stationary pedals sometimes it would cause my foot to bounce a little bit on the gas pedal. Switching to moving pedals should take care of that issue. At the same I feel having legs move with pitch and roll will feel better with flight sims. My dual flight sticks will be mounted to the seat. Steering wheel will be stationary mounted to desk. I believe the stationary wheel works better when simulating gforces in racing games.

    Ordered a new gaming chair to build with.
    Screenshot_20210330-223044_Amazon Shopping.jpg



    My tired server power supplies would shut off under aggressive loads, so I have ordered 2 new 360 watt psu's.
    Screenshot_20210330-223323_Amazon Shopping.jpg


    And also ordered a new 200 watt amp for Gamevibe to power my bass shakers.
    Screenshot_20210330-223509_Amazon Shopping.jpg
    • Like Like x 1
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2021
  16. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    Made a mistake and cancelled my order for the power supplies. Those were rated at 30 amp- my current ones are rated for 47 and will kick out once in a while. I may go the battery route instead.
  17. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    This forum has certainly grown and their is a lot more information in here now compared to when I started this sim.

    Looks like I only need to add a bridge rectifier to cure my psu's going into protection mode. That is great news!
  18. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    Well, started laying things out a little today to get some ideas. Decided I want to run the PC at the sim. I'll run a USB extension and hub to desk for mouse and keyboard. That'll allow me to keep my chair mounted flight sticks, and the rest of the cabling nice, short, and neat.

    Because of this, it's not going to be as compact as I envisioned when I started the rebuild but I'm still coming in at 1066 x 610 mm. That's almost 1/4 the size of the original build.

    Since it's not quite the compact I planned on, I'm back to rear mounted motors, and shoulder mount. Not necessarily a bad thing, it'll allow me to take advantage of the speed of my 25:1 motors.

    A quick mock up until I figure the rest of the details.
    20210401_094305.jpg
  19. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    Everything laid out now, and time to start the new build.
    20210401_211406.jpg
  20. jem45472

    jem45472 Active Member

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    I'm a bit tired, these are my specs if I measured everything right.
    20210401_213519.jpg
    20210401_213509.jpg