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Showroom Dschadu's 6 DOF build

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Dschadu, May 23, 2020.

  1. Dschadu

    Dschadu Active Member

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    D-Hi everyone,

    long in the planing, finally making it! I started to research on motion platforms 5 years ago and started to plan my own actuators and electronics.
    But these tasks turned out to be enormous and I ditched the DIY-electronics (which already eaten up about 300h development - with approximately 200 more to go).
    Recently @SilentChill showed his BLDC Actuators - the design is simple, easy to build and powerful!

    So I started to buy stuff...
    3x oDrive 3.6 56V Version without connectors - 183,46€ each
    6 x Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6374-149KV Brushless Outrunner Motor - 89,18€ each
    12x IGUS GSM121425 bearing - 1,20€ each
    6x IGUS GFM252625 bearing - 1,33€ each
    6x Encoder AMT102-V - 20,55€ each
    IMG_0007.JPG IMG_0008.JPG IMG_0010.JPG
    IMG_0011.JPG IMG_0013.JPG IMG_0014.JPG

    The encoders do come with a lot of different mounting hardware. The biggest plus is that they are wear-free as there are no moving or touching parts.
    IMG_0020.JPG IMG_0021.JPG


    To get things right, the I also bought the correct connector:
    6x MOLEX 50-57-9405 - 3,29€ each
    100x MOLEX 16-02-0069 - 7,92€
    IMG_0019.JPG

    And a nice SubD9 connector, too:
    ENCITECH 6355-0009-01 - 1,78€ each
    IMG_0015.JPG

    And the other SubD stuff:
    50m LIYCY 5 x 0.25 - 35,20€
    6x D-Sub Female - 0,30€ each
    6x D-Sub Male - 0,96€ each (I have no idea why the are 3x the price...)

    To keep the odrive cool, I got these 40mm fans:
    12x 12VDC 40x40x10m 15,7dBA; SUNON HA40101V4-1000U-A99 - 2,55€ each
    12x 40 x 40mm fan grill - 0,43€ each
    50x Screw STP5X10 4.2mm - 4,55€
    IMG_0023.JPG

    And some connectors I already had:
    IMG_0022.JPG


    oDrive Case and assembly:
    Its not fully assembled on the last picutre. Still needs the leads for the second motor and the subd9 connector.
    Airflow is designed to go over the cooling fins. They get controlled from a central spot to keep them as quiet as possible. At 7 V they are very silent and they do push a lot of air ofter the odrive board.
    IMG_0031.JPG IMG_0032.JPG IMG_0038.JPG IMG_0039.JPG IMG_0042.JPG

    The encoder cable is fully shielded.
    IMG_0041.JPG IMG_0043.JPG

    As power source I bought a WS-CAC-6000W - 38€. The scrap price would score more... absolutely incredible.
    IMG_0035.JPG IMG_0036.JPG IMG_0037.JPG

    Only downside: The fan is really loud. So I removed it and put a more silent one in, only to discover that the integrated fan controller is not happy with the low RPM and shuts down the output. Solution was a simple NE555 circuit to emulate a faster spinning fan. And it worked :)
    Heat-shrink around it to avoid bad thinks from happening and put it all back together.
    IMG_0044.JPG


    More pictures and infos to come!

    Attached Files:

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  2. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    6DOF
    nice work!!
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  3. Dschadu

    Dschadu Active Member

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    A custom connector for the power supply. Its not perfect and also looks not that good, but it should do the job!
    IMG_20200508_171928.jpg IMG_20200508_171950.jpg

    The actuator itself - as mentioned above - is based on SilentChills design. But I had to do some changes to fit the parts I'm able to supply. In particular I had to change the bottom mounting, as I couldn't find the huge U-Bolts that are used in the original design. While I where on it, I removed some material in some place that is not structural critical, mainly to reduce printing time. I also added the possibility to add a 40mm fan below the motor, just in case.
    Some prints turned out great with the first print, some parts needed adjustment, usually because I didn't get the tolerances right.
    After everything arrived, I could start to build the first actuator.

    6x Bearing FK12 - 15,90€ each
    6x Ballscrew 1605 600mm - 36,90€ each
    4x Aluminium pipe 12x1mm, 2000mm, 2,64€ each
    4x Aluminium pipe 25x2mm, 2000mm, 7,04€ each
    Different bolts and nuts in M4 - M6, too much to list here.
    IMG_20200510_121348.jpg IMG_20200510_121404.jpg

    Now with everything in place... time to test the odrive. The documentation is not optimal and the usage is a pain, as there is no UI. But I got the hang of it pretty quickly and it turned out that there are not many commands and settings. I limited the motor to 10 A @ 24 V and 150 rpm for testing and it worked so far. Final version will go with 70 A @ 42 V (at least that's the plan).

    Then the outer pipes arrived:
    6x Aluminium pipe 90x3mm, 800m, 18,40€ each
    IMG_20200515_130442.jpg

    The first actuator is nearly completed:
    IMG_20200515_154145.jpg IMG_20200516_164916.jpg

    And a short video on how it is assembled:


    Now my 3d printer needs to print all the other parts (~160h), but this will take some time as I don't let it run unattended. So only a few parts on weekends.
    In the meantime I can prepare the pipes and start building the frame.
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  4. Dschadu

    Dschadu Active Member

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    Its big update time :)
    I can't believe that it has been 3 months... incredible. The amount of work is just insane. I had two weeks off and was working 4-5h every day to get things forwards.

    I started doing a bit electronics: Prepared the oDrives and cabling.
    IMG_20200714_092623.jpg IMG_20200715_160552.jpg IMG_20200715_172404.jpg


    And then i started the task of creating the lower linkage. I need four aluminum block for each actuator. Times 6 makes for 24 identical parts.

    First, cutting:
    IMG_20200810_111217.jpg

    Then marking:
    IMG_20200810_115745.jpg

    Started to drill some holes and tapping the threads:
    IMG_20200810_140434.jpg

    And more drilling (this is a 27 mm drill. It produces insane chips)
    IMG_20200808_091740.jpg IMG_20200808_092513.jpg IMG_20200810_141819.jpg IMG_20200810_162911.jpg

    After I got all 24 pieces drilled and cleaned, I started on the lower frame:
    Cutting, drilling, welding... a lot of work again! I tried my best to get this as accurate as possible. I ended up with 3-4 mm difference between CAD and reality (the long side edge-to-edge). I would say that's pretty good.
    The frame is 40 x 80 x 3 mm. The plates are 5 and 6 mm (had some stock still laying around). Welding is done with a AC/DC TIG welder. The head gets really hot really fast, so I had to make a lot of pauses to let it cool down. Annoying...
    After welding was finished, I only primed the frame to prevent it from rusting. I'm going to paint it black if everything is done.
    IMG_20200811_161056.jpg IMG_20200817_145532.jpg IMG_20200817_162426.jpg IMG_20200819_145032.jpg IMG_20200819_145525.jpg IMG_20200820_094947.jpg

    Then it was time to assemble the actuators... A huge pile of material!
    I drilled all the tubes beforehand and also assembled a few things as I was waiting on the 3d printer to finish. The aluminium pipes are also sanded to prepare them for painting. But this will happen after everything works to prevent scratches. This means I have to disassemble everything again...
    IMG_20200820_131030.jpg

    Some detail-views and part-groups ready to be put together.
    IMG_20200820_133102.jpg IMG_20200822_110914.jpg

    All 6 actuators partly assembled:
    IMG_20200823_110435.jpg


    This is the latest addition: Some laser-cut parts for the lower end of the actuator. They will replace a more crude version made with an angle grinder ;)
    IMG_20200826_175147.jpg


    And besides all that... I also renovated my gaming-room: Put in new outlets, a second circuit just for the Sim, some Network ports and painted everything.
    IMG_20200718_093545.jpg IMG_20200718_174825.jpg

    Before and after:
    IMG_20200718_134143.jpg IMG_20200830_114045.jpg


    Next step is to get the actuators completely assembled. Then put them on the lower frame and build a temporary wooden upper frame. Get the electronics done and test the motion... I think this will take another month or so, as I only have the weekends to work on it.
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  5. Dschadu

    Dschadu Active Member

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    Its again time for a big update!

    The bottom frame found its home (remember I will paint it black when everything is done)
    IMG_20200902_193047.jpg

    The actuators are assembled and ready to go onto the frame. I suggest to get a second person to help you do this. My actuators cannot be laid on the ground, as the lower joint does not allow this much movement.
    IMG_20200902_193054.jpg IMG_20200903_181306.jpg IMG_20200903_190220.jpg

    Build a wooden frame. If something goes wrong, the wood can break and shatter (hopefully)
    IMG_20200905_124245.jpg

    Now it is time to get all the ODrive into their cases
    IMG_20200905_200340.jpg IMG_20200905_200442.jpg IMG_20200905_200501.jpg

    I designed two circuits to fight two issues: Back current into the PSU and overvoltage. The left one is an ideal diode. Instead of a diode with 0.7 V voltage drop it uses a Mosfet with only 8mOhm resistance. Lower losses, lower temperature, more voltage to the motors :)
    The right one is a brake-chopper circuit. It enables a resistor when the voltage rises above a defined threshold.
    IMG_20200930_184900.jpg IMG_20200930_193248.jpg

    The E-Stop stuff and the PSU needs a place to go. I ordered some laser-cut sheet metal and build my custom cabinet. Walls are 1.5mm, bottom is 2mm.
    IMG_20201002_170909.jpg

    All this stuff has to go into there... (and of course the PSU)
    IMG_20201004_085209.jpg

    Some build pictures:
    IMG_20201004_085602.jpg IMG_20201004_092250.jpg IMG_20201004_093030.jpg IMG_20201004_100338.jpg IMG_20201004_151450.jpg

    I wanted to use the original PSU 42V connector, but opted to connect the wires internally.
    IMG_20201006_183200.jpg IMG_20201006_183207.jpg

    Two detail pictures:
    IMG_20201006_183213.jpg IMG_20201009_172442.jpg

    The copper bars distribute the power. Maybe a bit overkill ;) The other picture is the ideal diode. It uses the case as heatsink and is electrically isolated to it.
    IMG_20201009_172446.jpg IMG_20201009_172453.jpg

    ODrive mounting position:
    IMG_20201010_132033.jpg

    Do you remember where I said that I hope the wooden frame would take the beating and not... something else? Well... I was wrong. Had issues with the Index-Signal search. The actuator went from "very slow" to "full speed" and "full extend" within .75sec. The 3d-Printed part got obliterated.
    Luckily only this part got damaged. The spindle puked out all of its ball bearings, but after 45min of fiddling around I got all of them back in.
    IMG_20201010_151949.jpg IMG_20201010_151959.jpg IMG_20201010_160430.jpg IMG_20201016_144108.jpg IMG_20201016_144118.jpg

    The Index signal looked like this. Its just... bad.
    IMG_20201010_152637.jpg IMG_20201011_101901.jpg

    I set-up my oscilloscope to measure the signals on my bench. The first picture is the signal when turned by hand. The 2nd is when the motor is running. The frequency matches the motor PWM frequency.
    IMG_20201011_103656.jpg IMG_20201011_103837.jpg IMG_20201011_101705.jpg

    After hours and hours of trouble shooting and trying different settings.... I found the issue: I got the wrong firmware version. If you are looking into ODrives, download THIS version and only THIS version!
    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/135nR860-Wdb2QgAaqxzzxanJe04ZAtfT
    Also use the config you will find there. Friendly provided by @SilentChill :)

    Only thing you need to do:
    change "odrv0.config.brake_resistance" to your resistor value.
    Run "odrv0.axis0.requested_state = AXIS_STATE_FULL_CALIBRATION_SEQUENCE"
    Set "odrv0.axis0.controller.config.trav_upper_lim" to your values:
    cpr * (stroke / screw pitch)
    example: 8192 * (460 mm / 5 mm) = 753664
    Don't forget to save! "odrv0.save_configuration()"

    Even with this firmware, I noticed some spikes. Fix was easy. Just added some ferrit to the motor leads. This reduced the EMI by a significant amount.
    IMG_20201013_190634.jpg IMG_20201013_190801.jpg IMG_20201013_190920.jpg

    This is now the current build state:
    IMG_20201017_141441.jpg

    Everything looked good. Index search went good, too: Actuator does 2 turns outwards, 1 turn back, 1 turn outwards. The initial two turn are a bit jerky, but that's normal. I connected Mover and... the actuators went the wrong way. After two or three hours of searching and looking into things, I decided to change the A/B encoder cables. And this was the issue.
    I think the software ignores the A/B signal direction when looking for the index signal. It just goes into one direction. Only after the index is found the software looks at the A/B signal. And if they are switched around, the actuator goes the wrong direction.

    Got it moving yesterday:



    But now I got EMI issues again. The USB connections drop out when all three ODrives are active. So I have to order some good USB cables and a good powered USB Hub.

    Big thanks at this point to SilentChill for his help and patience :)
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  6. Dschadu

    Dschadu Active Member

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    The last few weeks were a roller coaster of emotions...
    But first, lets start with some work on the upper frame.
    I got tired of my bandsaw that cannot produce a 90° cut, even with a high quality brand new blade. So I went out and looked for an alternative. I found an old "Eisele" cold-metal-saw on a eBay Kleinanzeigen (something like Kijiji or Craigslist). Build in 1974. Still runs like a charm!
    IMG_20201031_135137.jpg
    Only downside: The coolant pump runs, but does not pump any water. Solution: 3d Print the pump wheel with some flexible filament. It did not fit at the first try, but it still works even after removing some material.
    IMG_20201102_163219.jpg IMG_20201128_140901.jpg

    I have to say... this thing cuts... if you set it to 45.4°, it will cut 45.4°. All day long.
    Set it to 121° and measured the cut afterwards:
    IMG_20201107_145534.jpg

    Some parts I prepared:
    IMG_20201107_162614.jpg

    Started to weld the middle pice:
    IMG_20201108_124932.jpg

    Did this two times and this part was finished.
    The arms that go left and right were a bit tricky, as they sit at an angle. I used my welding table to create a jig and used some stock to get my reference points right:
    IMG_20201121_150817.jpg IMG_20201121_153055.jpg IMG_20201121_171357.jpg

    These are the mounts where the seat will bolt to:
    IMG_20201129_150602.jpg

    This arms will later hold the steering wheel. I added some material on the inside to get it more sturdy
    IMG_20201129_150618.jpg

    And this is where I left it last week, ready to be welded!
    IMG_20201129_150635.jpg


    But now to the part that took me the most time and was also very frustrating:
    After I had one ODrive running, I tried all three of them. Sometimes it works, sometimes the USB connection drops. I bought a high quality powered USB Hub but without success. After this attempt failed, I switched to the serial connection. After the firmware issues were sorted, I run (again!) into EMI issues with the encoder... One actuator was working, but the other one was just doing random stuff while searching for the index point.
    So... what to do now? SilentChill went for the 24V route. But this is not an option for me. I am stubborn about it.
    My plan now is the following:
    Use RS232 instead of USB. A ETH -> Serial board is used. (USR-RCP232-T2)
    Use industry-standard shielded motor cables
    Use industry-standard EMI cable glands
    Use twisted-pair industry-standard shielded encoder cables
    Put the PCBs into a full metal case.
    Switch from AMT10 to AMT11. AMT11 has the same footprint, but offers differential signals. This means every noise that will affect the wiring, will have no impact on the signal integrity.
    This, of course, means some kind of circuit to decode this differential signal again. So I created a PCB for the ODrive to sit on. PCB will arrive as soon as its cleared by customs... parts should arrive tomorrow. You can finde the schematic and PCB attached.

    Sometimes you have to go a few steps back to get forward...
    IMG_20201122_144338.jpg IMG_20201122_162749.jpg

    I hope that all this effort will solve the noise issues. Fingers crossed...

    Attached Files:

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  7. Dschadu

    Dschadu Active Member

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    While I was waiting for the PCB and the parts to arrive, I continued to build the upper frame.
    IMG_20201205_124252.jpg IMG_20201205_124256.jpg IMG_20201205_124303.jpg IMG_20201206_135547.jpg

    Seat mount: done!

    Then the parts for the ODrive Motherboard arrived. A short test fit to see if all measurements are okay:
    IMG_20201214_173343.jpg IMG_20201214_173357.jpg

    Turned out that everything fits! Below the completed PCB. I will show the solder process a bit further down
    IMG_20201219_120740.jpg


    The case is laser-cut 1 mm steel (1.5mm for the bottom). And also fits perfect!
    IMG_20201225_155810.jpg IMG_20201229_114842.jpg IMG_20201229_114851.jpg IMG_20201229_115149.jpg

    Looks a bit messy, but works perfectly. At least on my bench... Real test with the 48 V is still on the To-Do list.
    IMG_20210110_101819.jpg

    Since the new encoder has differential signals, it needs more wires. About double. To fit all these wires into the same small encoder footprint, the manufacture has chosen this small connector. Its fiddly and takes a lot of time. Like... a lot of time. About 30 min per connector. And thats only for on side. The other one has to be soldered, another 30min. So 1h per cable.... uff....
    IMG_20201219_121214.jpg IMG_20201219_121346.jpg IMG_20210212_155337.jpg IMG_20210212_163148.jpg IMG_20210219_161003.jpg

    The cable is shielded. This cut-out has the purpose to provide a location where the cable shield can be connected flush with a metal ground.
    IMG_20210221_103826.jpg

    Same goes for the motor cable, only a bit bigger:
    IMG_20210130_135750.jpg

    I also had the issue that the actuator pipes where ringing like hell. They also amplified every noise. Solution was self adhesive bitumen that is used in car audio applications. Price is okay, and the result is awesome. No more ringing.
    IMG_20210116_151252.jpg

    Last weekend I finished the steering-wheel bracket. Its made from 45mm extruded aluminum and some custom brackets. It can be tilted (+-20%) and also adjusted in height (+-10cm)
    IMG_20210221_154754.jpg IMG_20210222_172114.jpg IMG_20210222_172456.jpg IMG_20210222_172506.jpg IMG_20210222_172510.jpg IMG_20210222_172529.jpg

    And its very sturdy. That's about 95kg standing there :)
    IMG_20210222_172100.jpg

    And as said above, here is the process of soldering the PCBs:
    Blank PCBs needs to be cleaned with IPA.
    IMG_20210221_111612.jpg

    Then a stencil is used to apply the solder-paste. It has laser-cut cutouts for every pin that needs to be soldered. It needs to be aligned to the PCB.
    IMG_20210221_111628.jpg IMG_20210221_111848.jpg

    Next step is to apply the solder paste
    IMG_20210221_111848.jpg

    Now the stencil need to be removed carefully to not mess everything up.
    IMG_20210221_112909.jpg

    Now follows the step that takes the most time: Put every component into the paste. One by one...
    IMG_20210221_115249.jpg IMG_20210221_122225.jpg IMG_20210221_122701.jpg

    After about an hour of placing components, the PCBs go into an special made reflow-oven. It follows a specific heat-curve.
    IMG_20201218_160150.jpg

    Soldering only takes a few minutes:
    IMG_20201218_160641.jpg


    So... yeah. A lot of different things got done. The upper frame is done, the PCBs are assembled. The new PCB case is done. Every motor and encoder wire is done. Today I finished the painting of almost everything. There are still a lot of things on the to-do list. But the goal is in sight.
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  8. Dschadu

    Dschadu Active Member

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    And another big update! This time not months apart!
    Starting with some painting:
    IMG_20210227_134825.jpg IMG_20210227_134825.jpg IMG_20210227_134831.jpg IMG_20210227_134836.jpg IMG_20210227_141135.jpg IMG_20210227_154918.jpg

    I really love that green color.

    After painting I filled the lower frame with sand. Goal is to make it heavier and reduce noise. Both goals were achieved!
    IMG_20210228_141420.jpg IMG_20210228_142946.jpg

    After testing one of the ODrive-Motherboard-PCBs, I went on with the two other two PCBs. And at this point I noticed I forgot to to order two voltage regulator ICs... Tiny little thing:
    IMG_20210303_182201.jpg

    While I was waiting on the two ICs, I continued with all the small task that were ahead of me. The issue with these "small" things is, that you need a lot of different parts and tools, just to perform one of the many things to do. So it ended up looking like this ;)
    IMG_20210306_172412.jpg

    But I got everything done quickly. Main cabinet is almost done now. There is not much space left, but for now all big things are in there.
    IMG_20210306_191041.jpg IMG_20210307_174225.jpg

    It was time to assemble the actuators:
    IMG_20210307_174245.jpg

    Preparing the wiring for the actuators. The cables are all shielded and grounded properly to reduce EMI as much as possible. I also added a ferrit to each motor cable. The ground meets at one point in every ODrive case.
    IMG_20210309_211239.jpg IMG_20210309_211249.jpg

    Mounting all actuators to the base (everyone has to help to hold them ;) )
    IMG_20210310_142948.jpg IMG_20210310_151541.jpg

    The upper frame is ready. To mount it to the actuators, I firstly put it onto the main cabinet.
    IMG_20210310_151532.jpg IMG_20210310_160727.jpg

    With some help from a friend (its impossible to do for one person) I got it mounted. Second picture is a detail shot of the cableing.
    IMG_20210310_161516.jpg IMG_20210310_164814.jpg

    Mounted the seat and steering wheel. Looks almost finished :)
    IMG_20210311_111808.jpg

    The next step took some time to complete. Every ODrive needed to be calibrated and set-up. Even if you get used to it, these things are a pain. But I somehow got it done.
    Now it was time to power it up! To be honest... My heart was pumping. I turned it on with the E-Stop in my hand. Turned on Mover and... it worked! Holy shit was that a cool feeling.

    I started to test the extreme angles to see if something interferes with each other. I found out that the upper mount movement was limited by the nuts.
    IMG_20210311_133746.jpg IMG_20210311_115132.jpg

    The fix was very simple. I just 3d-printed a few spacers.
    IMG_20210311_134114.jpg

    Mounted the pedals (new ones are on their way) and the USB Hub
    IMG_20210311_151705.jpg

    And there it is! Looking really nice :)
    IMG_20210312_093553.jpg


    Next up is a test. Spoiler: It went great, then bad, took some hours to solve, and then all turned out to be great again! The feeling to drive with the movement is awesome and is a lot of fun. But more on that when I got a good video :)
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  9. Will974

    Will974 Active Member

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    875Coins
    Ratings:
    +112 / 1 / -0
    My Motion Simulator:
    6DOF
    Fantastic job Dschadu !!!! I really want to see a video of your rig !!!! :)