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PT-Actuators 3DOF system?

Discussion in 'Commercial Simulators and Peripherie' started by LukeBrown, Jul 1, 2019.

  1. splendiddd

    splendiddd Active Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, Arduino, Motion platform
    Thanks, i already got help from THanos and his Discord :)
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  2. GT3 Porsche

    GT3 Porsche New Member Gold Contributor

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  3. GT3 Porsche

    GT3 Porsche New Member Gold Contributor

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    Any comments on the motion setup guys ...improve it possibly ?
  4. Thanos

    Thanos Building the Future one AC Servo at a time... or 6

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    A little more pitch/roll and heave would be good for immersion, otherwise looks good!!
  5. GT3 Porsche

    GT3 Porsche New Member Gold Contributor

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    thanks
    I’ve made the changes ...what do you think?
  6. mark_44

    mark_44 New Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Just finished the mechanical portion of my 3DoF / 3 x PTActuator + P1X build.

    Having 3 actuators, I took the advice of noorbeast and focused on weight distribution and CoG. As a result I bought some additional cut 16040 profile and 8080 brackets from SimLab (who have been amazing TBH).

    Though it does increase the footprint - the 'side pods' have allowed an equilateral actuator triangle to be created (110cm) . The weight at each actuator is within 2Kg when seated (I'm 80kg). Frankly I'm amazed at how stable it is.
    IMG_9998.JPG IMG_9995_2.JPG
    Looking forward to the tuning now.
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  7. CScott

    CScott New Member Gold Contributor

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    Stupid question maybe, could you help me understand what you mean by mimic wheel placment?
  8. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    An actuator is located on each corner, as the wheels of a car are.

    The downside of that, during very fast actuator movement, is that it is possible for one actuator to lose contact with the ground, which effectively is a loss of control from a motion simulation management perspective.
  9. CScott

    CScott New Member Gold Contributor

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    Ok that is understandable. I was thinking the 1 up front 2 in the rear setup but is there another advantage or level of immersion with 4 corners ve the triangle concept? Long term I would like to add yaw as I understand it .
  10. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    A triangular base needs to be big enough to provide stability.

    Do you mean yaw or traction loss, as they are 2 different forces?
  11. CScott

    CScott New Member Gold Contributor

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    Or I guess is it considered better use 4 if you also
    Oh boy, well both honestly but my goal is to better feel that moment of losing the rear or a front lock up would be nice to feel that or pushing through a corner.
  12. CScott

    CScott New Member Gold Contributor

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    Thank you for the help
  13. Thanos

    Thanos Building the Future one AC Servo at a time... or 6

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Maybe you need additional layers for traction loss...

  14. CScott

    CScott New Member Gold Contributor

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    That is awesome
  15. Slugga

    Slugga New Member

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    Hey guys,

    I think I have a bit of an issue with my MDBOX for my PT-5 actuators, I am getting a E - PoEr error code on the MDBOX
    Which from what I can tell says something has gone wrong with the thing as it says (return to factory)

    I have tried checking all the wires again and ensuring nothing is wrong, but I keep getting the same error.
    I have had this working as I bought it second hand, but as I went to redo everything now after testing I am getting the MDBOX error.
    Really disappointed right now. Was so close to completing the rig.

    If I had to replace the MDBOX what would I be looking at?
  16. Thanos

    Thanos Building the Future one AC Servo at a time... or 6

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Hi,

    The E PoEr, is "Power Device Fault Alarm", which is actually the error you get if the IGBT circuit in the MDBOX unit is fried. Does this error come for one axis or for all axis (A, B, C or D)?

    The IGBT can be replaced carefully. I had to replace it on mine when I burned it when I over torque the motor against hard stop... Only one of the three IGBT circuits failed on mine. But took me 3 hours to carefully desolder the part, clean the pads and solder back a replacement.

    This is what I don't like on the Syntron MDBOX drives, the MBOX controller ignores safety alarms from the three HS servo circuits, and they eventually die...

    If you wanted to get reliable servos, the best way would be the PT-ACTUATOR AASD-15A PLUS drives (and matching 80ST-M02430 motors). These are made custom FOR motion simulators. No 10khz whine, full on electrical safety and protection features, like over current, over voltage, over torque of the motor. Nothing I tried so far killed any of these servos... see the older model of these here:


    You can see the PLUS version, but its best to contact them directly for quote:
    http://www.pt-actuator.com/products/p5/58.html

    Thanks
    Thanos
    • Informative Informative x 1
  17. Slugga

    Slugga New Member

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    Yeah it looks like just the C circuit.

    Do you know the spec of the IGBT is should replace? Or are you able to point me in the correct direction.

    I will open it up tonight after work and see if there is anything obvious. But if I need I should be able to get it done, just wanted to order the replacement part.
  18. Slugga

    Slugga New Member

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    Also sorry to double post.

    With the 80ST-M02430 motors, if I decide to go this ways, Is this just something that I can swap out mechanically on my current PTs?

    Or would I be up for full actuators as well?

    Was trying to keep costs down as I already blew my budget buying this kit second hand.
    But after playing for a small amount of time I think im happy to throw some more cash down in the future.
  19. Slugga

    Slugga New Member

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    Sorry for blast of messages.

    Really really appreciate you getting back to me so quickly thanos. Absolute gem your are!

    I have opened it up.

    Im assuming it would be the HF3FF/005-1ZS relay that is busted on the C channel (as that is the one complaining)

    So if I lift this off and attach a new one I should be good?
    (I'm assuming these aren't silver soldered)