From ADB (Old Mac) to USB

Hi,

This is probably the best place to post this since there is a lot of people here changing and modifying controls.

I have a Fighter Stick Pro, Pro Pedals and Pro Throttle. All old mac ADB.

I found this converter but apparently it has been discontinued!
http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/imate/

Does anyone know where I can get a converter and if I do would the controlers work on a PC running Windows XP?

Or any other ideas on how to convert them, please?

I have around 400 dollars sitting here. They are all in excellent condition so it seems like a shame to not be able to use them!

Thanks.

If you can't find an adapter anywhere, you can use the Mjoy16 to convert the whole controller electronics in your joystick. It is a standard USB HID class controller without feedback. All you would need to do is connect the buttons and pots to the circuit, plug it in the USB and it will work.

Try ebay or google for a converter, maybe you will get lucky.

Thanks for the answer Frakk!

I have been looking around and seems I would need to make an Mjoy16. That´s pretty much beyond me.
Although I´m posting on a DIY controllers thread I don´t know anything about eletronics. I just posted here because I though the guys here could be able to help me.

If it was just a matter of buying a USB controller and connecting it then I might be able to do it. But to actually build the controller would be too much for me.

I have looked everywhere for a solution to avoid making my CH controllers become just paper weights.

Webwing,

If building one Mjoy16 is beyond your (soldering skils), I suggest you to get one Leo Bodnar BU0836 USB controller card.

So remove CH internal circuits an rewire pot´s, buttons and HAT´s into BU.

Example, one CH set that I USBfied with BU0836.

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?u ... ost2334380

Sokol1

Thanks a lot. That sounds easier for sure. I´ll read the instructions and order the BU.

Will post how it goes!!!

More Advice

Hi Wingwash,

I would like to back Sokol up on this: the Leo Bodnar circuit board will do the the trick for you.

It would be easiest to get Three BU0836 circuits of some description: one for each of your controllers, but that gets a bit more expensive, and you run into the possibility that some games might not accept 3 controllers ( but I am not sure about that last bit though - Sokol might be able to help out. It might be that if the game accepts more than one controller, it will be able to accpet three controllers.)

You have either 7 axes or 9 axes on you controllers (depending on whether you have the little X/Y joystick on your throttle.) So you could save at least one BU0836 by piggy-backing the rudder pedals onto one of the controllers.

My old Gameport Pro Throttle has 16 buttons (four singles plus 3 * 4-way hats) plus a POV hat, so if I were to use only one BU0836 then the second POV hat would not be able to be function at all at all. (Fighter Stick has 16 buttons plus POV hat. A single BU0836 only accepts 32 buttons.)

So looking at that, I would put one BU0836 in each of the Joystick and the Throttle, and feed the three axis signals from the pedals to one of those controllers.

That would look neat, not cost too much, and it can even be used on single controller games such as Red Baron with PPJoy as a joystick mixer.

You could also put the BU0836s into an external box and feed the switch information from each of your CH components to that box via old style D-sub 9, 15 or 25 pin cables from the computer shop. This has the disadvantage of a bit of fiddly soldering to join the wires in you CH gear to the D-sub connector, but it has the advantage that this external box could be fitted up with 32 extra switches to use the spare 32 buttons on two BU0836's, and then shortly thereafter you will be building your own cockpit!

The BU0836X is a non-soldering, press-fit version and the BU0836A is a normal jumpered version, but both are 12 bit axis resolution rather than the 10 but BU0836 standard. I presume the 12 bit controllers cost more than the 10 bit ones, but it might be more accurate, especially if his filtering circuits are as good as he claims.

My advice: do do this project. It will restore your faith in your original wise purchase of CHProducts in a throw away world.

I hope this helps.

Regards,
George.

Hi George,

Good observation about buttons count.
What would I do:

16 buttons in stick plus POV HAT.

16 buttons in throttle (4 push + 3x4 in HATS)
Replace one HAT with mini-stick (like in USB Pro Throttle, Cougar TQS).

http://cgi.ebay.com/PS2-PS3-SONY-ANALOG ... 414bf9290b

BU0836 have 8 axis, so

2 in stick (X,Y) = the throttle in joy base is not necessary.
1 in thottle
3 in pedal (if PRO PEDAL)

The 2 left in mini-stick X,Y axis.

Maybe mini-stick is not usefull in old games, but work in news, ie mouse vision in IL, cam vision in Wings of Prey...

So, one Bu0836 (vanila) is sufficient.

Bu0836A is good to use with HALL sensor, or high end pots, to use the big resolution.

Sokol1

Yet again, good advice, Sokol. I did not know what buttons the old Mac stuff had. Also I have not used a mouse in games very much at all, so I could not be sure.

Using the extra Bu0836 might just keep webswing's internal wiring simpler and external wiring neater.

Regards,
George.

Guys, thanks a lot for the detailed information. Very instructive no doubt!

I´m digesting it all and figuring which way to go! Will keep you posted.

Thanks again!