My first 2DOF racing sim project

Hello!

I'm from Sweden and have started a 2DOF racing sim project which will be done in three steps. It's a long term project and the goal is to get it ready before the end of the year.
The project thread is made in three main posts, one for each step, to keep them close to each other and easy for you to follow, and then I will update each one with new information when there is something to show about the progress.

My project will be done like this…
Step1: The construction of the electrical control unit started from a modified Dell server chassis from which I used the PSU's and put the rest of the electrical components inside the cabinet, like the JRK G2’s and other parts. By using the server chassis I’m able to ”plug-and-play” the PSU’s without any soldering if they need to be replaced, but also get a nice looking cabinet.

Step2: A small test rig using 12V/2W worm gear motors. This rig will help me to play with the settings to learn how to make the basics settings before I start the setup of the full size rig.

Step3: A full size rig based on a modified fixed FK Automotive sim racing seat plus welded frames and reinforcements. 200W 12VDC 50:1 worm gear two shaft motors and hall potentiometers and JRK’s will control the movement.

Let’s start the project journey!!!


Step 1 – Cabinet with all electric and electronic stuff.

1. Starting point, an old Dell server with two 12VDC, 64Amp, Power Supplies. A perfect chassis to start from.


2. Label on the power supply.


3. The old server chassis was too big and needed to be resized and rebuilt after the old electronics was removed.


4. I reused the front panel from the old server and kept the two slots for the power supplies. The front panel will get the main power switch.


5. Some unused metal for recycling…


6. The power supply contacts will be reused and be put back in the chassis when the circuit board is removed to be able to ”plug-and-play” the power supplies without soldering or mechanical work.


7. The contacts are not soldered and can be removed carfully from the circuit board by a screw driver. Start with a small one to open a gap and then use a bigger one to ease the contact from the circuit board.




8. A buddy made brackets in his 3D printer for the Pololu JRK G2 12V27
Download the STL file from ... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3837389
(too large to be uploaded here)



9. The rear side of the cabinet got connections for the USB connection, motor power outlets, potentiometers, switches for PSU fan speed, emergency stop circuit and main power input. And the front panel got a main power switch witch control the mini contactor (in the middle of the chassis).


10. The contacts for the power supply in place and connected.


11. View of the componets. Note that no heat sink is needed on the JRK G2’s.

12. View from the back of the cabinet with all components in place and ready for test.


13. Ready! Before and after…



Today status: All components has been tested and works as expected and it’s ready to be used, first for the mini test rig and then the full rig


Main components used…
2 x Pololu JRK G2 18V27 USB
1 x USB hub
1 x Fuse holder + 30Amp fuses
1 x Main power contactor. Schneider Electric type: LC7K0910M7 (230VAC control voltage)
2 x Power outlets/plugs for motor control
2 x Switches for PSU high/automatic fan speed
2 x Microphone outlets/plugs to connect the hall potentiometers (3-pole)
1 x USB outlet (USB connections on both sides)
1 x 230V AC main power input
1 x Main power switch. Green illuminated 2-pole, 2 way. Schneider Electric type XB4-BK…
1 x 230V outlet/plug for the external emergency switch. (switch of the main power contactor control circuit)


Suppliers…
1. Contacts and Pololu JRK’s
http://www.tme.eu
2. Schneider Electric components from a local shop

Step 2 – Mini test rig


The small test rig use 12V/2W worm gear motors and will help me to test that everything works as expected and to play with the settings to learn the basics before I start the setup of the full size rig.

So far it has not been tested, focus now is to make the full size rig because I have limited time to spend on the project in the coming months.

1. The small worm gear motors, flexible couplers for the potentiometers and M6 rod ends arrived.


2. 12VDC, 65rpm, worm gear motor


3. One of the two hall potentiometers.


4. The test rig, and of course an AC Cobra model on top if it
Almost complete except two rod ends and rods.


5. A closer look. The u-joint is from a ½” tool set.



Main components used…
2 x Worm gear motors 12VDC 65rpm
4 x M6 Rod ends
2 x Hall potentiometers
2 x Flexible couplers (between motor and potentiometer, 6mm inner diameter)

Suppliers…
1. Motors
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/0-6...290.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.61084c4dbdVWm5
2. Hall potentiometers
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2PC...059.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.a1a04c4d2clzMB

Step3: Full size rig

The full size rig is based on a modified fixed FK Automotive sim racing seat plus welded frames and 200W, 12VDC, 50:1 worm gear motors. The reason why I modify a fixed rig like this one is to save time on the construction and to get a flexible starting point to test wheel and pedal possitions etc. before the welding and final measures are fixed.

1. The FK Racing seat and fixed rig arrived


2. Unboxing


3. This is how it looked like before the modification started


4. Worm gear motors (200W, 12VDC, 50:1) and couplers arrived from China.


5. Motor specification and dimensions. Motor type KS-80ZYJ08-12V-200W-50K


6. Before modification. The frame is a very good starting point and will save me a lot of work


7. The original frame is not stable enough and needed some reinforcements, both for it’s stability and to get mounting points for the rods. An additional frame under the moving part of the rig is made of 25x25x2mm, and the frame in front on the picture is the one to be on the floor, made of 30x30x2mm tubes.
Reinforcements and fixing points for the rods are also made in 30x30x2mm.


8. The frame for the u-joint is made of 25x25x2 mm but is not welded in the correct place yet because the balance point is not measured (only placed there for the picture). Note the possibility to fine tune balance point and possition of the u-joint if needed after the rig is finalized.




Main components used…
2 x Worm gear motors KS-80ZYJ08-12V-200W-50K
4 x M10 Rod ends
2 x Hall potentiometers (same as used in the test rig)
2 x Couplers (between motor drive shaft and motor lever)
1 x Emergency switch in plastic box. Schneider Electric type xxx
1 x Volvo 240 U-joint

Suppliers
1. Motors KS-80ZYJ08-12V-200W-50K. 12V, 200W, 3000rpm (no load speed 3600rpm), 50:1 gear
https://dakemotor.en.alibaba.com/pr...ml?spm=a2700.icbuShop.41413.48.789b3f0cYfH1qc
2. Racing seat
https://www.fk-shop.de/en/Tuning/Sp...me-consoles-imitation-leather-black-blue.html
3. Rod ends
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10m...476.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.a1a04c4d7Cc8fT

My project is slowly moving forward and it’s time to add some updates on what I have done since last time I updated this thread.

9. The moving part of the rig is ready. Made two front brakets to be able to change the distance between the brakets and balance point.


10. Construction of the lower fixing point for the u-joint on the frame.


11. The u-joint and column in place.




12. The upper u-joint fixing point is adjustable to fine tune the balance point if needed.


13. Approx location of the motor with enough space between motor and frame for the movement. The motor mounts will get two possitions to be aligned with the two upper brackets for the push rods.



The construction is still ongoing ... adjustable motor mounts and push rods are next to be done.…more info and pictures to come later…

It's time to make an update of the progress of my project.

14. Construction of motor brackets. Used 15x15x3mm and 30x30x3mm to get it stable.


15. A 30x5mm is welded to the motor shaft couple on which the motor lever is bolted for easy exchange to a lever with different CTC distance if needed.


16. The motor has two fixed locations for the bracket on the frame and can be moved to change the pitch movement if needed.


17. Left side is done. Note the two fixing points for the motor bracket and the rod to be able to change the pitch movement. Hope the possibility to change the pitch and CTC on the motor lever will make it flexible enough to fine tune the movement.


18. The mechanical construction is now almost done
Final step is to add fixings for the Hall potentiometers, a stabilization bar between the motors, cable ducts and the box for the electrical connections before disassembly and painting

My project is moving forward, the rig is now disassembled and painted. Just started the final assembling by adding an electrical connection box to be able to disconnect and remove components easily without soldering of cables.

19. Painting done.


20. The motors and the new electrical connection box are in place.




Next is to mount the moving parts of the rig and the Logitech racing wheel. Then the fun, but probably time consuming, part will start to learn how to set up the software and to get it work

My project is slowly moving forwared and the rig is now ready for configuration by the JRK Configuration tool and SimTools.

21. The electrical box on the rig is done.


22. The rig is now finally assembled and ready for setup of the JRK’s and SimTools.



Started to run the JRK Configuration tool to set basic motor parameters and feedback from the Hall potentiometers. Setup of the first JRK/motor combination went fine but I got serious trouble on the second JRK/motor and got ”Motor driver error” after 15 minutes of tests without load. :-( Same error if I have the motor connected or not. Looks to be a bad JRK board and Pololu is looking at the issue right now.
(URL to my thread about the broken board https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/jrk-g2-motor-driver-error.15510 )

Hope to get it solved quickly so I’m able to finalize the setup and do my first race on the rig.

Yes the project has been on hold for some time but has been started again. As I wrote in my previous post I had an issue with one of the JRK boards which ended up in a garantee replacement by Pololu so I’m back on track again. The JRK/potentiometer feedback callibration is done and now it’s time to learn abut how to make the setup in SimTools to get the rig moving.

I have also replaced the old Logitech wheel/pedal setup some weeks ago with a new Moza R5 direct drive kit to get a more realistic driving expeience.