Mmos, motor monster and tx motor/base?

I have a dead thrustmaster tx. I figure its dead at the board as even with external power supply i get nothing. I searched the board for signs of burning etc but can't find anything. Its beyond my electronics skills at the moment anyways to be replacing mosfets and other IC chips. the power supply only puts out 10V so something is messed there. Spliced in a USB cable to eliminate the xbox connector. No Dice.

So i'm wondering what the possibilities are that I would be able to use a motormonster/stm discovery/mmos and the thrust master motor.

Ive looked through the threads by @RufusDufus and @Alexey and id think its possible. I would certainly need some guidance in both testing the motor and getting a system up and running. I have an OSW so the basics of setting that part up I can do.

If someone smarter than me was to tell me "maybe that would work and i could maybe offer some sort of guidance", I'll get to stripping out the guts and posting some detailed pictures to get the project rolling.

If the power supply is only giving you 10V then maybe you could start there. I beleive the supply should be putting out 24V with 5A rating. If you don't want to dick around then maybe find a replacement supply first. If the supply isn't the issue then you already have a new supply to power the MMos option(maybe find something like 10A for headroom and incase you need to go down the MMos route). If you go down the MMos route then you will need a 24V H-Bridge and the STM32 F4 Discovery board.

Link to retaining button functions:
http://rr-m.org/blog/hacking-a-thrustmaster-tx-rw-gaming-wheel-with-arduino-uno-part-1/

One thing I havent been able to find yet is the encoder pinout. You will need to figure out the channels:

Phase A =
Phase B =
(possible home trigger) =
VCC =
GND =

Don't rely on colour coding either as I found out the Logitech units that a red wire does not mean power and a black wire does not mean it was ground.
You may have to look at the circuit on the encoder and determine the pinouts. We should be able to help if you are able to post detailed photos.

Link to STM32 F4 wiring:
https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/diy-ffb-steering-wheel-mmosffb-in-progress.7769/page-4

The only change should be the 24V motor driver as opposed to the 12V system shown.

Wow thanks for all the info.

Looking at motor controllers they seem to be for brushed motors and I think he tx uses a brushless motor. Will this matter?

http://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/cytron-13a-5-30v-single-dc-motor-controller.html

Would something like this work?

I'm not 100% certain but I don't think it will work as the direction controll on that motor driver only uses one pin. The directional control on the MMos uses two pins.
So you would have to look for something that has either + DIR / - DIR or DIR + Complimentary DIR. Basically something with PWM + 2 pin directional control.
I think a few members here use 24V controller already so a shoutout to you guys who know of any good 24v H bridge motor controllers.

I don't know enough about the control signal coming from the MMos to know if it is compatible with a single channel DIR control board.

MMos has a few different options available for PWM/Dir setup using the config utility. In any case if you just want PWM and one DIR pin just ignore the second output from MMos board - it is just the inverse of the other DIR pin.

ok so sounds still possible!

Any input on a 24v budget h bridge that would be suitable?

Can I apply 24v to the motor directly to test or should I test with ohm meter?

I'll dismantle a bit more today and see what I can find for other questions.

Thanks again for your input.

ok here are some pictures and more detailed testing done so far to make sure i don't miss something obvious

*Symptoms* DOA. Thrust master TX 110V edition. Came with no cable using cable from my t300 that is verified good

Solutions (in order)

- Visually inspect main board and triac circuit for obvious flaws - None
- Splice in use cable to avoid xbox connector issues - verify cable with continuity tester
- Use 24V 2A Epson power supply to bypass transformer.
- Verify 24V at leads on board
- Verify 5V at board USB
- test triac 5V input to see if 5v is passing through to turn on triac circuit - No power at thin leads on power connector when plugged into computer
- Search hi and low for a fuse inside. Don't see anything





Did i miss anything in testing?

Ok, so I am answering here because I am also searching a way to upgrade T300/TX's with bigger motors or just replace broken pcb's with an open source project like stm32 or arduino.
So basically using the mechanical part as donors.
Now the T300&TX motor is a brushless motor with an extra hall sensor (meaning DC monster moto controllers won't work here) . The stock psu is 24V@2.5A.
Now my two scenarios are :
1.to try and replace the motor with a bigger one (24V, 3.5Amps), where obviously I will have to change the psu as well with a 24V@5A for safety, and hope that the stock pcb will be able to handle the extra Amps that the motor will draw. Everything else stays stock. Maybe extra cooling of the pcb would help.
2. Programm an stm32 board or an arduino and use an external controller (esc) to control the FFB. This is an interesting approach but more expensive because of the extra parts.

I do write all the above having read a lot, yet not fully understanding how things wotk. So any corrections are more than welcome. I do have quite a few dead T300&TX's so it's worth experimenting.