My 2dof (worm gear + IBT-2)

Hello guys.
After much research and testing, it's time to share my project.

At first it is a 2dof, because I had several problems putting the third dof to work (the plates were damaging themselves without any explanation).


Initially I started with 3 IBT-2, then I moved to 3 motomonster, then 2 motomonster + 1 IBT-2, finally I got 2 IBT-2, waiting for the new IBT-2 to complete 3dof. It seems crazy all this !!! lol

From the photos you will see how much I have worked on the project. lol

To make the engine easier to use, I used these parts.

Finally, it is provisionally ready, just missing the cockpit.

My Settings

Now comes the problems:
1) When I go to the track in the LFS, the engines start to spin without stopping until I start to accelerate.
2) When I close the game, the motors start spinning until I manually turn off the motors.

Any help will be very welcome.

I'm using SMC³.
I'll take the test and post the results later.

Yeah use the SMC3 Windows Utilities, it'll help you visualize what's going on with the PID and your motors. I had an issue initially with my pots, and it was very apparent in the program as my position was always reading 5v.

Also great idea with drilling into the bolt to insert a cotter pin. IDK why I didn't think of that I just used two lock nuts to pinch it to the shaft. That's a much better solution!

Hi....
It really was lack of mileage on the LFS. But I think I still need to walk a little more so I can calibrate correctly.

Now the next chapter will take a test with a weight to see the stability of the engine position.

I've seen similar models here in the forum, and on another site.
He spent a lot of time researching to find something that would be easy to work with.

Here I am, without having solved the operation of the simulator.

I think my problem is in the potentiometer because the motor does not stop spinning. With or without the potentiometer the motor rotates the same. And I test the potentiometer and the engine responds. I'm super confused by this.

The videos below show how it works the same, with and without the potentiometer.








This was my last setup on SMC3, but nothing has changed from what I had previously done following the manual.



Tomorrow I will buy new potentiometers to see if it solves the problem.

@Zeraxx What was the problem you had?

Either your potentiometer or motors are wired in reverse OR the potentiometer is open circuit. The program is trying to get the motors into a position but never reaches it because the motor is spinning the wrong way.
As a quick test, change the polarity of the motor in question. Use the SMC3 utility to track the position of the potentiometer and use the "OUT MODE" to manually control what position you want the motor to go to. If the "FEEDBACK" line does not change when you change the "TARGET" line then the potentiometer is either broken or wired incorrectly.

If the motor does move to the target line and follows it, then the potentiometer and motor are in sync. However you need to make sure that when you tell the motor to go up, it goes up physically rather than physically down. If it goes in the wrong direction then you should reverse the polarity of the motor and the potentiometer.

what gauge of wiring are you using on the monster? im having the issue s of soldering them.

What ujoint are you using . Got an online shop link ?

My first thought was the same as what @Alexey wrote: When a motor does not stop spinning, the most probable reason is that the wires need to be reversed.

But then I saw one of your pictures, which shows your very strange connection between motor and pot. I have marked the relevant part in the image below:


With this kind of setup, the pot's movement direction is automatically reversed periodically on each 180 degrees of motor movement. And during these 180 degrees of motor movement, the pot only makes for a really tiny angle.
In other words: While the motor performs a continuous movement in one direction, the pot moves forth and back, changing its direction on every half motor rotation.
This may have the result that the pot never reaches the position in which the motor would stop.

You really have to change this in a way that the pot always follows the rotation direction of the motor.
The easiest way would be to directly connect the pot axis to the motor axis.

When you have done this, you should make the wiring check mentioned by @Alexey.

Side note: I assume that the reason for your current pot/motor connection is that you fear to break the pot. However, when you exactly follow the SMC3 setup tutorial, which explains how to carefully increase the motor speed and check if it is wired correctly, the risk of damaging your components is really low.

Good luck, and let us know if you have been able to solve the problem.

I'm using 2mm wires. The same ones that are used in flat cables.

I bought here in Brazil, but on ebay there are several ads.

Hello Guys.

Just giving feedback.

I decided to review the construction from the beginning.
So I started the configuration of the SMC3, aligned the sides of the motor and potencientroentro correctly (right descends and esqueda rises).
Manually, using the fingers to control the potentiometer, the green and blue lines are superimposed.
However, my acrylic piece has a millimetric difference in the circumference of the potentiometer with 2mm more, and this is influencing the rotation of the motor.
I'm waiting for the new part to arrive so I can update them on my progress.

until the next post, which will be tomorrow ... because I hope to finish yes this weekend. lol