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Low cost 2DOF/3DOF/6DOF motion simulator - DOF REALITY

Discussion in 'Commercial Simulators and Peripherie' started by Radioproffi, May 23, 2016.

  1. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    When it is ready.
  2. mike523

    mike523 Member

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    Now THAT is the best news I've heard all day
  3. Mpmo

    Mpmo Member

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    But what is it even...
  4. mike523

    mike523 Member

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    Can anyone share some presets for games like Project Cars 2, Assetto Corsa, Dirt, Elite: Dangerous, etc? It might not be perfect but at least it would give a good starting point for fine tuning, right?
  5. mike523

    mike523 Member

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    That was very helpful Andy, got me to a decent starting point in Project Cars 2 at least. One problem I'm noticing is that traction loss (and recovery) is extremely violent and jerky. Whenever I leave or return to the track I get a very sudden and significant yaw movement.
  6. Mpmo

    Mpmo Member

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    agreed. I'd also like some presets for dofreality 3dof too
  7. Spit40

    Spit40 VR Flyer

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    Use yaw/sec and look into washout or smoothing. Washout gain determines how quickly a force takes effect and washout return is a speed of returning to neutral.
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  8. hazardic

    hazardic m3gt2 fan

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    would you be so kind to explain where i should adjust those values please?
  9. Spit40

    Spit40 VR Flyer

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    Do you mean how to adjust washout? If so, click the small square to the right of the tuning line. The one to the right of 100% in this pic. in the Flt column If you don't have the Flt column then there is another plugin mode. I think one's called Basic and I forget the other on. It might be interface settings - sorry I don't have access to my main PC now.

    In Aerofly Fs2 and probably as a convention in SimTools plugins

    Extra1 = roll/sec
    Extra2= pitch/sec
    Extra3=yaw/sec

    upload_2017-12-11_16-41-11.png
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  10. hazardic

    hazardic m3gt2 fan

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    Thank you for your explanation! However i don't have such Flt option.. Just Dir, Force and % amount
  11. mike523

    mike523 Member

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    That's because you're using Basic mode and need to be in Standard
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  12. hazardic

    hazardic m3gt2 fan

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    oh i see, thanks! so i just swap to standard and apply all my settings from basic and technically i will get the same but with the ability to fine tune with Flt?
  13. mike523

    mike523 Member

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    That's how I understand it
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  14. DOFreality

    DOFreality Member

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    Pls use UDP plugin for PC1 and PC2 as it is more stable
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  15. DOFreality

    DOFreality Member

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  16. GTA

    GTA New Member

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    I am not sure what you mean by tap it in the lever. I have this same issue of slack in the traction loss with mine. Seems like a product defect. Can you post a picture of the fixed motor where you did this.
  17. Jukkakamala

    Jukkakamala New Member

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    It is fully assembled and quite a work to disassemble and take pictures.
    However, with my excellent paint-skills i made you this.
    Views are top and side, the original retaining screw not drawn.

    https://pekkakaukalo.kuvat.fi/kuvat/dof/3dof_lever.jpg

    Hope this helps.

    I used 5.5mm hole, then tapped it to M6 and used a M6 bolt. It has to be short to clear the motors own mounting bolts.
  18. GTA

    GTA New Member

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    Thanks that was useful. I am curious as to whether using an epoxy would be sufficient to solve this issue. Did the slack develop in the other motors or just the traction loss?
  19. Jukkakamala

    Jukkakamala New Member

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    Sorry, noticed afterwards you are not in the metric system, anyway, M6 bolt (and thread) is 6mm total diameter and thread pitch is 1mm. You have something very close so use those. The whole bolt type is "M6 x 1.0", your size might be something like 1/4-20 or 1/4-28, use drill and tap according to those and of course the bolt.

    In my eyes it is not necessary to use any larger bolt because there is not enough material on lever base.
  20. Jukkakamala

    Jukkakamala New Member

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    What?! I was not supposed to post that. It was a draft but anyway...

    No, epoxy is not enough if the slack is between the axle and lever. Been there, done that.
    Not with epoxy but with Loctite 660, industrial stuff supposed to cure such slacks.
    Nope, it lasted about 5 minutes and then gave away.

    Then i got angry and made it good the hard way.

    A bit of slack in the other motors but while i was on it, i disassembled them too and made the same mod in them too.
    There is a bit of slack in both of them anyway but unless your chair is 100% balanced it does not matter. And that slack is from the motor internals, a little more work to take care of. Meaning totally disassembling the motor, pulling the axle and cog out, cleaning and with hot flames, braze them together for good. Which i did to the traction loss because its slack is the most annoying.

    But if you correct all the motor internal and external slack, there will always be a little bit which multiplies at the end of the levers (the chair itself). The worm gear-contact to cog has always a bit.