New builder of 2 dof race sim

Hey Zed thanks, yep there is a lot of stuff to do, the making of frame was only couple of weekends I have no trouble with building things wood or steel but when it comes to the computer I struggle big time but learning everyday. The Trike is awesome also Australia, love this place although having said that I have nothing to compare it with as I have never been anywhere else in the world other than Tassie with previous employer. I am sure USA also has it's positives but from what I see on TV not for me.

@Ned - LOL! Yeah, quite a bit of turmoil here now. It's very unfortunate to see the divisions and the behaviors of so many. But it's not just the US. It's like the whole world is going mad. There is so much good out there but some prefer to oppress, to intimidate, and even to kill. I'll never understand it. I think it's one reason VR and the sim world are so appealing - total escape.

Cheers!

360° pot is fine: anyway the code will stop the motor if the value read is beyond mini and maxi
just start the test with pot initially within the range

Wow, look at those arms spin! Bit of setup still required but good effort so far!

"Bit of setup" that's an under statement ha ha, but thanks anyway.

Ha my new MM boards arrived yesterday 4 of them, what is the best way to connect the 12 volt power in wires and 12 volt out wires to the motors? Do you just solder straight to the board or do I get screw terminals and solder them to the board and then connect wires to the screw terminals??

If you will be using heavy gauge wire it will probably be easier and a better connection to just solder. Depending on the gauge you use, it may not even fit the terminals without cutting away some conductors and that can make shorts more likely. Not best practice to cut conductors anyway.

Well I hooked up the 1st MM board and checked voltage out all seemed good then I hook the motor up all works in forward then when I spin the pot to reverse the motor spins very slow and then comes to a stop so I guess the first of the 4 MM is F faulty, not sure I want to continue with the other 3 MM boards. I see some people have had same issues with the cheap MM, can anyone tell me the best place to purchase JRK boards for best value on internet delivered to AU? Also are they just as simple to hook up to Arduino or do you have to have an electronics degree??? ZED?????????????? Noorbeast??????? Racingmat??????? Silent Chill??? 6???

Or please advise which is the best motor driver to use and setup for a new to electronics type of person???

Hey @Ned, I am pretty sure I've seen people mention similar behavior when using wiper motors that haven't had their internal grounds removed. Are you running with wipers and have you made sure there is no continuity between the motor power connections and the motor bodies? That can lead to seeming to work ok in one direction but going slow and even burning an MM in the other. If that's the case, any controller you hook up will burn up if what is going on is internal shorting in the motors.

Not sure about this, though, since you already had things going both directions in the bronco video. Did things change between that video and now?

Hey Zed thanks for input, but all earths have been removed there were 3 in each motor, when you hook up 12 volts to motor before cutting earths out using a test light the body of the motor would be live after cutting all earths the body no longer lights up with the test light.

Hey @Ned - not sure at all then. I do keep seeing people talk about bum MM's and having to replace them. Sabertooths might be a way to go depending on shipping and such since you already have the Arduinos. I'm really happy so far with the JRKs but don't have miles on them for endurance. Much more expensive than a MM if you pop one, though.