Konterror's 2 DOF Seatmover Project

A PSU has a very fast over-current protection. If a motor is switched very fast from one direction to the other (if you have for example a noisy feedback signal from your pot) the current could be very high for a short moment. That is enough for the PSU to shut down.
You could replace the PSU on the defective side for test purposes by a car battery. (Don't forget to connect a fuse between battery and JRK). If that helps you could connect a smaller battery on each side in parallel to your PSU. So the batteries would supply the short current-peaks.

What Game are you playing and can you take a pic of your Tuning center please.

@Bernd Manger Thank you for the comment I think my problem is not the PSU shutting down, but the motor driver errors. The JRK counts an motor driver error if motor output A is shortend to ground or vin. The PSU shutting off is a consequence, but not the problem itself. In case I put a battery in bewtween I would still get motor driver errors which result in basicly no motion when the occur.
@Nick Moxley I am testing with iRacing driving a RUF Track. I put in the JRK settings as well. My axis assignment:
Surge 21% Roll 15% Sway 55% Pitch 20% Extra2 6%

Other axis are not assigned anymore.

I added some pictures from the built as well, maybe someone sees an major fault in it. Something I will try is to lengthen the "pushrods" and move the motors a little farther back, to make angles less steep. Someone suggested that in an very early stage of my build and I have some left over material to lenghthen them 120mm.
The CTC I use right now is 50mm. In case more information is necessary, I will gladly provide more.

Please watch and understand what the setting's do and you should be able to solve your issues.



PS thanks again Rich for this video.

@Nick Moxley Thank you I watched that video before and thought I did things ok, but it seems I have been wrong. I did turn down the P a lot to 0.2. I am still getting some Motor driver errors but not as many as before and the sim keeps running. Now I have another problem. With these settings my seat moves way too sluggish. There is no texture on anything. I get most of the slower motions (sway, roll, pitch) but there are no bumps, or anything that comes close to faster movements. I cannot even feel the shifts anymore.
When I look at your Monza Jordan video, if it would run in my rig, the seat would not move one bit on the straights.

@noorbeast I uploaded a video of the JRK graph. I am driving with a Occulus, so I cannot watch the graph while driving. The "screen capture" is done with a phone, sorry for that, but the quality seems to be ok.
These are the settings that work on both sides without problem:
P=0.2 I=0.025 D=0.6


From what I get out of Richs video Nick posted I would have to increase P to make the lines more like each other, since they are way apart in the first video. Once I do that, one side looks and feels better, the other fails. I did a video with the graph as well(the non failing side):


In this video I put P=0.5 and D=1. I is unchanged.

I turned a few laps with one side on only, than switched that side off, and turned the other side on. Right side works like a charm, the left side shuts down with my lovely motor driver errors. I can make a video with the shutting down graph as well, in case that helps.

What is your USB connection like ? into a Hub or strait into the PC ? Also what is the AWG of your USB cables.....and for future proofing, please source some Ferrite Cores for your cables. 4-5-6mm cores will do pending which size cables you have.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pcs-Black...694303?hash=item3ac47dfd1f:g:fBEAAOSwBPNXSH-u


PS the main force you see in my Monza video or any of my bobble hat video's is Heave, but for Iracing thats Extra 1 correct ? usually you need to set a rather low tuning center value to get the oscillation your looking for.....i for example run between 1-2 1 for street cars and softer suspension stuff, and 2 for the Really stiff F1's. Tho im on Assetto, Not Iracing.

@noorbeast The motors are form motioncontrolproducts. 90zyt-155 with a 60:1 wormgear gearbox.

I changed the PSU left to right, and the error went with the PSU, wich kind of surprised me. I replaced that PSU two times already. Once in my initial search for the error. I recently got two PSU for free and switched the not working side again. I still have one PSU I never tried


@Nick Moxley Heave in iRacing is Extra2, and that is already somewhat included in my motion profile with a pretty small value, so it reaches maximum motion quick. What does AWG describe? The cable are 5-6mm thick and without ferrit cores. I will try to get some next week
The USB Cables go to a Hub.

Third PSU, same problem. The PSUs I use are the DPS600PB B out of HP DL380 Servers.
I followed Sliders Tutorial to make use of them.

I read a bit around in the forum. @Avenga76 used break duration. I will try that today after work. Maybe that helps with my problem. Otherwise I will do something in order to protect the PSU or do what @Bernd Manger suggested and add a battery as buffer

Have you tried going direct to PC...How long are your USB cables ? @ 5-6mm thick they are at least decent cable's, Not the Shi* paper thin stuff some guys try and run,

Ive had mixed outcomes with my ( 7 Port hub with 4A PSU) I literally have had the TL controller Cut out when it was plugged into the Hub and a buddy of mine "flicked" the light switch a couple times which turns on a 4' Florescent bulb i have and Sure as shit I heard a Bloop bloop from the USB and it dropped the connection. YES my room is grounded/wired properly and i have officially confirmed that i run my Entire setup, baring my AV amp and Cable box, on a Single outlet.

Ya Source some Ferrite cores and make sure there's no electrical gremlins going on here. 1.3 vs 2.0 Simtools is greatly improved in the way the Controller's deal with a little back talk up the USB lines.

Back in the 1.3 days i used to also get misc shut down's from time to time, but now with 2.0 and me adding Ferrite cores up the ying yang, I honestly cant remember the last shut down...Early Beta days in v2 maaaaybe.

I have Cores on my cables directly off the JRK *how the cables came, I then have a 2nd Ferrite core on the end of the Lead off the JRK, Then i have short 2' extensions off the face of my PC that go to my Seat motor's which Also have 2 cores per cable. I have a 3rd dedicated USB from the Rear of the PC that Runs my TL, Its however a 10' cable and I honestly dont think i added a Ferrite core to the TL cable **remembers to check later** Ive also went to town and added cores on my Wheel base, Pedals and Button boxes......There cheap why not.

So ya I got a Shi* load of Ferrite cores on my cables and I want to say back when i used 1.3 and made this change, It was a BIG difference. So highly them.

@Nick Moxley Since I started using a DD servo wheel I had some trouble with flickering load cell pedals and a buttonbox on my wheel that did not work as soon as it touched the servo. I fixed all those issues connecting the motorhousing to the USB Shield I had lots of fun figuering that out -.-'
I think I got some mini-USB cables with ferrite cores flying around. And for testing I should be able to connect the JRKs directly.

I am using simtools 1.3. 2.0 is still beta?

Hello Konterror, can you tell me what software did you use for the aluminium planning? I'm looking for creating a 2dof with large actuator.
Thanks
Cyril

@cyril69850 I used: http://www.maytec.de/index.php?id=21&L=1
It's a free software and you can buy the aluminum from maytec right out of the software, which I would not recommend since they are expensive (would have payed 1200€ or so at maytec and payed half somwhere else)!
The software was easy to use though and I took the measurements to a diffrent aluminum supplier.

@Avenga76 explained in his thread very nicely what Max acceleration does, and found I the use of break duration in the same thread, as well. Thank you, I kind of misunderstood that before! I set 20ms of break duration, so one PID calculation, and put Max accel. to 300, so it takes two PID calculation or 40ms, to go from full forward to full backwards. I did a few Laps in Laguna Seca with the RUF and it ran fine! I upped the P to .6 and and D to 1.5 and did more laps. My "problem side" shut down once during a crash, but never during normal driving, with hitting curbs too hard etc. It feels already pretty good. I get bumbs and it feels like bumps in a car, that has suspension, not like bumps in a Kart
I need to tweak a bit more with PIDs I think, and maybe reduce the duty cycles a tad and add a little more P.

Maybe tomorrow, or the day after. Worked too long today, need rest ^^

Thank you very much for your reply.
I've already seen that the price vary a lot between sellers.
The cheapest I could find was from metodis.fr.
But depend where you live too.
Thanks a lot.