Arduino sketch for G-Loc arcade

Hi everyone, I have this G-loc arcade that I am converting into a sim. I will be using an arduino with pololu 24v shield. I don't have arduino sketch to run it, anyone has the sketch for it? thank you

I amusing Arduino mega and pololu 24v shield.

I tested the motor and they run well at 24v

Try the sketch from @RacingMat HERE

Hi there, thank you so much, it will be of great help, I am trying to convert an old G-loc arcade from sega into a sim, thank you again

Thank you so much it worked like a charm. Sim is running strong, but it is running using 26v and i want to run it at 48v, because motors are 90v. any idea of 48v bridge for arduino? thank you

I hope that you find the proper h-bridge to move the motors at sufficient speed,

Just a word of advice. Anything at or below 25-30 volts is considered SAFE and as NON-LIFE-THREATENING.

Going above that number (48 volts or even more if it turns out that 48v is not enough) you should be taking into consideration a lot more things regarding your own safety .

I agree, that is why I am using 24v right now. Actually I played with it all day yesterday and it worked very well at 24v. So I might just keep it like that. Thank you for your advice, it is a wise one.

Ok I am going to document what I did to retrofit my g-loc arcade into a motion sim. Here are the steps required to make it happen:

1) checking the rig
2) electric wiring
3) electronics hardware install
3) g-loc hardware wiring check and retrofit
4) wring connection to electronics
5) pots adjustment
6) arduino uno sketch install
7) smc3 setup
8) testing

1) checking rig:
I went through the rig and check first all the hydrolics. I took a 12v battery and hocked it up directly to motors to see if hydrolics work. After I saw,they work, I decided to gat rid of all computer hardware. I checked fans but they are running 110v, so I took them off. And replace them with 12v fans

2) electric wiring:
I made a list of what I needed for rig and then used the rig wiring to do mine. Then I got rid of extra wiring. I also used rig sound wiring to hook up a computer sound system to rig speakers (rear and front)

3) electronic hardware:
I started with pololu jrk, but their 12v and it was way to slow for rig motors rated 90v. So I decided to test 24v with motors with simple frys electronic uno board and 24v motor board, and it worked very well but boards cut in fires really quickly. So I ordered 2 (24v motor controller from China worth around $20 each). It took a while for board to come, but when they arrived I installed them right away following the arduino uno smc3 wiring diagram. At first it worked but not very well, I kept having to re center sim hydrolics. But them I saw one of the wire where not properly setup. I switched it and it started to work perfectly.

4) electric wiring:
I took a volt meter and tested lines from motion seat to rig to find the one I needed to send sound and to connect wiring for motors (1st motor is brown and green, second motor is brown and purple). Then I tested motor like that with a stable power supply, and it worked fine

5) pot installation:
There are already one pot connected to motor using a small gear. The middle wire from pot is the signal. The 2 others are as usual + and ground. I figure out their cables and extend ended it to the front of the rig where boards will be. My pot for motor 1 was not aligned in the center when using smc3. So I open the small door on the rig side and with sqrew driver adjusted the motor pot so it is centered when centered on blue line in smc3. That was trickier than I though and took me around 10 minutes to get it set up properly. After setting them up both centered on the rig hydrolics, I then stared the smc3 and checked it with blue line. Adjusted pot until green line is centered on blue line. Did that for both motors to ensure that sim is leveled.

6) arduino sketch install:
Straight forward process, I downloaded sketch for arduino uno from this site and install it without any problem. I made sure that I modified the start of sketch with option 2 for Chinese board setup. I also downloaded the smc3 application to adjust my rig. It is important to note that the smc3 software needed me to change the ini file to reflect my uno actual use port, save it and then start smc3.

7) SMC3 setup:
That was pretty straight forward. You need to change ini file to show your actual USB port so it can communicate with computer and board. They put your setting in smc3 (I will take a pic of mine and up it later)

8) testing:
In game engine, I set up the rig with axis 1 as axis a and axis 2 as axis b ( I will post pic soon). Went thought every dof (sway, roll, pitch and surge) one by one until got result I wanted. And the results were great. When I was done one by one I then started playing. And playing is real good. Now I am trying to run it in 48v, we are designing 48v driver boards to see if it will work better, but at 24v it works well. Do not hesitate to contact me if you need help with your g-loc sim retrofit.

If you want to use more than 24V, you will probably have to change your H-Bridge.

For sure, do you know any h bridge that work on 48v?
Thank you

No I only know until 30V max (Sabertooth or IMS-2 C)... Maybe this one ?

Hum that might work, I am going to order one and I will let you know, thank you

I am using ims-2 but only at 24v I did not know I can push it to 30v. Let me try and I will let you know.

Yes it can be interesting. Thank you.

Ok running it at 30v is prefect. Rig respond properly in time. This runs real well. I have to say it has been a while since I built it and I have been using it everyday for around 2 hours without any problem. It has never crashed at all, the rig is just perfect. Would advice anyone that can get their hand on an old motion arcade to buy it right away, if not let me know and I'll buy it for one of my friend.

What is the frequency of your pwm ?

hum, I Have some curiosity about that cabinet, could you put some pictures of it? thanks

Sure but I have to figure out how to inlaid,them, I will try today

I

am running it at 27v right now and it works perfectly, motion sim runs perfect, never crashed. Must be the best toy I have ever built