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Question Is this will work 3 dof 4 actuactor???

Discussion in 'Ready, set, go - Start your engines' started by Arta Yasa, Nov 16, 2025 at 06:31.

  1. Arta Yasa

    Arta Yasa Member

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    My desain is 4 actuactor on corner, but i dont upsidedown the actuactor. Like on the picture, its will work or will get trouble?? Base of actuactor is fix welded on the base rig, on the stroke of actuactor with rod end(ball end) to the up rig..
    Or i need to make it upsidedown??

    Attached Files:

  2. Radioproffi

    Radioproffi Active Member Gold Contributor

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    Need to add some joints. When the actuators move, the angle of the upper frame will change, which will require changing the installation angles of the actuators (this requires joints at the bottom) or changing the linear dimensions of the upper frame (which is impossible in this design)

    upload_2025-11-16_11-3-54.png
  3. Arta Yasa

    Arta Yasa Member

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    If pur botem joint the rig will falldown, because on the up already with rod end ball joint sir
  4. Radioproffi

    Radioproffi Active Member Gold Contributor

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    Yes, you're right, but that doesn't change what I wrote.
  5. Joe Cortexian

    Joe Cortexian Active Member Gold Contributor

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    I am considering a similar design.

    I assume the top joint (not visible in the photo) is a standard heim joint (spherical rod end) with its axis oriented front-to-back.
    - Roll is largely unaffected (the joint pivots freely side-to-side).
    - Pitch is severely restricted to ≈ ±10–15° (exact limit depends on the specific heim model).
    - Exceeding this range causes binding, accelerated wear, or catastrophic failure (spherical race cracks or rod end pulls out).

    If the top joint is a ball-in-socket design (e.g., trailer-hitch style), angular limits become effectively irrelevant (±45°+ easily achievable).
    - A trailer hitch ball + coupler would work mechanically but is sloppy and noisy.
    - Better solution: Machine a precision socket and pair it with a PTFE (Teflon) liner sheet (2–3 mm thick, 2–3 inches diameter).

    Real-world precedent: My Hobie 16 mast used exactly this—stainless ball in an aluminum receiver, with a flexible PTFE disc between ball and mast base no grease required.

    Bottom line: Ditch the heim. Use a trailer ball (or machined equivalent) + custom PTFE-lined socket—cheap, durable, silent, and gives full SFX-100 motion without joint-angle worries.
    .