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Hannibal's thread into DIY motion platform

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by hannibal, Feb 15, 2019.

  1. Flymen

    Flymen Flymen Gold Contributor

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    3/8 rod is perfect , and 18 plates 5 x5 and 6 others 3 x 4 1/2 , that I did !( or near of that depend what you have at home in your home scrap parts )
    Very important : the precision of alls holes is very important and more the center one if you don't want everything move like earthquake!!
    If you don't have again your ballscrew , put a extra 100$ each because the chiness one are very cheap( poor quality ) . I have 3 very good one with hight quality et 3 others ( chiness) and I can see the diference … lower sound when this travel, like -30% sound , long term quality , chiness have some defect too . For the bearing sleeve you have two choice : like my mine or the one like Pierre and silentchill … if the money is not a problem buy the one like them .
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2019
  2. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    thank you again @Flymen


    so now i am researching shaft couplers..

    I see, sixdegreesofflight went with D40 L45 size couples with a rated torque of 10N.m with a max of 20N.m
    because @Pierre Lalancette has ampflow motors with 12.7mm shaft.. he went with rater torque of 7.5N.m

    I also went with ampflow motors with 12.7mm shaft... have my eye on D45 L66 size couplers with a rated torque of 30N.m (max 60N.m)

    is this excessive??

    now i see a D40 L55 with my desired size of 10mm x 12.7mm with 15N.m rating... this is good i think?
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. Flymen

    Flymen Flymen Gold Contributor

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    My opinion info ! @Pierre Lalancette ,@SilentChill ,@pmvcda
  4. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    im trying to find a balance for cost..
    i totally understand, you get what you pay for...

    ughh! so there is stainless steel ball screws and carbon steel ball screws?
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2019
  5. Flymen

    Flymen Flymen Gold Contributor

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    don't put a carbon steel ball screw !! o_O
  6. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    ok, it just that carbon ones are more money.. the stainless are cheaper... i thought u were saying to spend more on the ball screw!
  7. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    Do you guys remove the spacer from main bearing block in order to get a longer shaft below the block in order to connect the coupler?

    Attached Files:

  8. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    I was talking about the structure in general when I compared steel, aluminium and carbon.

    If it screw, it's for it holding it in place. If not, it's probably just so the holding screw presses only on the rotary part of the bearing.
  9. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    when i received the parts, on the bearing block, there are 2 spacers, and 2 bearings that are on.
    if i put the ball screw on with all the items that it came with, i have less thread to put the nut that you are talking about. @Pierre Lalancette

    but if i remove one of the spacers, then i have more thread to screw on the nut...ill try to take a photo
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2019
  10. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    One photo is with the space, another without.. im just wondering if you guys use the space to have more shaft length to screw the nut and coupler

    Attached Files:

  11. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Ok, the spacer is on the other side. It looks like a ring to take all the weight on the moving part of the bearing. But I don't know. I don't remember such a thing on mine.
  12. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    after looking at photos of your build, you have the 2 spaces and bearings on your block. but i cant tell how much of the coupler fastened to the ball screw shaft... where you able to seat the coupler to the middle of the coupler? i found the photo of yours.. seems like the same!! i wish the length of the ball screw and size of the actually allowed the fully exposed shaft end up to the screw threads.

    ***update***
    found mounting procedure
    https://cnc4you.co.uk/resources/Mounting Procedures.pdf

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 14, 2019
  13. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    after getting extra 7mm length 12mm ID 16mm OD spacers and removed the 9mm length spacers, i was able to achieve about 14mm from the shaft to mount the coupler..

    Attached Files:

  14. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    ran into proper way to epoxy..
    also, i heard about using sand, but the proper thing to use is "bond beads"



    • Like Like x 1
  15. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    i have to say, building 6dof with DIY linear actuators is a money pit!

    jeez, its either i am buying the wrong parts, or spending money on tools and stuff.

    ended up wasting 100$ worth of heim joints and threaded adapters today..

    i should have went tie rod ends, regular heim joints have limited traverse angle, i see why silent chill had to shave off the lug nuts in order to get more of a traverse angle!
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2019
  16. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    I assure you, this is only the tip of the iceberg. You'll get time when you won't care anymore about the cost and you will only want to see the end of it.

    And I'm not yet talking about what you will destroy. Yesterday, I destroy a perfectly working monitor. Put it to close to the rig. Found it on the floor, destroy.

    Welcome to the Never never ever spending enough projects.
  17. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    im next to obsessed lololol yes i definitely want to see the end result. im trying to find balance of keeping sanity between my other hobbies like dance and piano, which i am neglecting..
  18. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    Looking like something..

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  19. wyoben

    wyoben New Member Gold Contributor

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    @hannibal What made you change your mind and decide to do linear actuators? I am still researching all my options.
  20. hannibal

    hannibal Active Member

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    let me say something.. DIY linear actuators is not for the faint of heart. if i didnt have experience building controllers from scratch.. it would be a huge learning curve. i have yet looked in to welding, but i will learn when time is appropriate.

    i went linear actuators because some many of the top DIY'ers started from 2dof motors to 4dof motors to 6dof motors to linear actuators..
    i went straight to top because i feel that i might have followed the same path, and i really dont want to build like crazy.. though you do have to enjoy the journey of the build..