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6 DOF from scratch

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Pierre Lalancette, Dec 18, 2016.

  1. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    I'm using Cura for slicer and my printer is using Merlin. I did not spend much time on Cura, as I spend a lot more on SolidEdge. I did use some others at the beginning, when I removed the initial Hictop program and put Merlin, screwing up everything for a month. So I promess myself to make it work and not change anything until my rig is done, or at least all part were printed. So, since it work, no change for now.

    I am lucky not to care that much about having perfect parts. As long as they behave properly, they can be as ugly as they want.

    Once I have done my rig, I want to change my printer head and remove the heavy motor on it, puting it away with the tube and everything. I will probably spend more time with the splicer and adjust Merlin to scan a wider part of my print surface. And I'll start to look into that S3D splicer.

    As for the brim, it is more a way to ensure that the head has printed many lines and is stable before starting the part. I don't really have any adhesion problem. Only one part loss traction in a year of usage. Wow, already a year!
  2. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Ah ok, Ive only really experimented with the Prusa Version of Sli3er and S3D.... let me know when you want to try something new, I can hook you up with S3D eh.

    I wish i didn't have the pickiness of perfect parts, But it just is what it is and my customers appreciate it i know.

    Im Not a fan of the bowden tube style print heads, I print alot of flexible finament and your asking for issues with a Bowden tube setup.

    Try and Brim that isn't touching the part, ( yes its possible I only run 1 perimeter as thats all you should need.) You shouldn't need to Purge THAT much to ensure your print head is flowing properly...if you have a clog, that many Brims wont fix the core problem.
  3. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Bowden may not be as good, but they are fast. Unless you telling me they are completely buggy.

    Never had a clog. I'll look into Cura, but I never seen the one brim around the part. As I said, as long I have working parts, I don't mind the little fiddle with the brim.

    I really have to convince myself not to change anything. I have the tendency to change things just for curiosity. If it's not broken, don't fix it!
  4. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Yes true, Bowden is quicker due to less weight on the head. Many printers run them, i just haven't experienced them, nor honestly care to.

    Clogs come with printing many various materials and Stuff like TPU and CF Filaments like to hang around a little while longer and take a few more purges to get it fully cleaned out. A Cold pull is a Highly suggested thing every once in a while to ensure your not building anything up in the nozzle.

    You should have an option to "offset" the brim from the part itself.

    S3D calls it a skirt

    upload_2018-9-27_11-14-44.png
  5. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Question:
    In this video, we can see that I do not reach the full distance of my actuator?



    Is there a way to be at the edge of the limite switch with the Tool Utility? I am not at the end of my potentiometer. Either it can't be done, or I am missing something obvious.
  6. Flymen

    Flymen Flymen Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Have you checked the resistivity of your potentiometer if it is of the good value like the others ?
  7. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    I thought it was using any value, but only using how close the resistance was going near the 0.
    5 v on one side and ground on the other, the middle going close to one side or the other, no mater the value.
    Still, I will check the resistance value and how many turns it does to be sure.
  8. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    I mesured the pot and they are 10k. They are 10 turns and in the middle, the olms are the same on each side (obviously). They have 5 turns each side and after 4 turns, they would trip the switch.
    So, I wonder why I can only set them to about 3 turn on each side with the tool utility?

    Still, trying to go forward with my none existing mechanical skill, I try to figure out how to set my platform. I want to do it with wood, because I am not equipped to do anything metal. It also make it easier for me to screw it up. I made this mock up placement and find it quite small. But after looking at SilentChill rig, it felt about the same size. So I will probably keep those proportion. The cat is there for size references.

    IMG_2059.JPG

    And for the actuators, the production pipeline has started.

    IMG_2060.JPG

    Those are my giant legos.

    IMG_2061.JPG

    This is where I tried to print a third actuator pieces assemble all at once, and my printer cable failed on me. Also, I put to much epoxy in one of the carbon tube, and I had to pull out the insert that was totally blocked. Luckily, with a little brutal force, it came out without destroying my tube.

    IMG_2062.JPG

    Also, I had my printer replacement cables. Word of advice, experience, whatever... You better like to get your hands dirty if you want to go into 3d printing. This is still the far west, like internet in the 90.

    IMG_2064.JPG

    Et voila! Working like new! The gauge of those wire were way bigger on the new ones. It will endure a lot more stress and current. I never did a print with so much used space and for a full 24h. All went beautifully, and my fourth one is about to finish as I write.

    IMG_2066.JPG

    Then, the rest is a matter of repetition. I'm still missing my corrected parts that went back to the mechanical shop. Just a week transformed to a month.

    IMG_2065.JPG

    Today, I did not fell like doing mechanics much. So I set up my Dirt Rally to work on my Vive. I had to install Revive. It worked, but after a 4Gigs download of Oculus stuff. Unfortunately, my wheel drive was not set inside my tracked zone, so I just got it working in the headset, without playing it. Anyway, without a simulator, I would have gotten sick.

    But now with revive installed, I could try the Robot Recall game (nothing to do with simulators). What a blast! The teleport with the Vive controllers is garbage, but the rest of the game is so cool. I recommend it.

    Now with the Pimax on the verge of being shipped, I found no RTX Graphic card anywhere. It's a good thing for my wallet, but it's nerve breaking.
    • Like Like x 1
  9. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    As Pimax has already started shipping to backers set up alerts on NowInStock for a 2080ti: https://www.nowinstock.net/computers/videocards/nvidia/rtx2080ti/
  10. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    Instead of measuring resistance why not measure the voltage output of the pot? That's what the arduino is actually measuring.
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2018
  11. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Thanks @noorbeast , I shall do that.

    Go idea @BlazinH . Maybe the arduino programation has variables that are tweakable and set to specific voltage. I don't even know if we can play with it, but it is a possible avenue. Anyway, when adding all the forces, it should go way beyond it goes now.
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
    3DOF, DC motor, Arduino, 6DOF
    Okay, since I hear that the no where to find RTX2080ti is not providing the expected result, I settle down for a GTX1080ti that was available. That was my reason to buy this brand, this one, is was at the reach of my hand and it was the last one. In the picture, the cat is there for size references.

    IMG_2067.JPG

    When it got installed, the first VR game that I wanted to try was Elite Dangerous. I have not played it for months since I spend all my free time on my build (and Netflix). What did I get when I started it?

    bug_elite.jpg

    Great! It turned out that Elite Dangerous has some problem with high end cards. I've tested many things so far that people were saying in forums, but nothing worked. People says they are crashing during the game. I've never been able to start it with the GTX1080ti. My other games run just fine. I'm discussing with Frontier about it, but it does not look good so far.

    Those who followed my build knows that my budget for it went way off the roof. So, to keep on the tradition, I bought myself a new tool to help me out in the build.

    IMG_2068.JPG
    IMG_2069.JPG

    But man, can I work those angles now! The cat is there for size references.

    IMG_2072.JPG

    And I got my parts back!

    IMG_2071.JPG

    I cut my tube at 60mm out of the bushing (The NEW Standard!) and I stuck them with epoxy. Now we wait for them to be dry.

    IMG_2073.JPG

    Again, I did a mess with the glue. My balance is not precise enough for that type of work. I really need a better system. I stuck the 2 other printed parts that were ready, and stuck my 4 other parts at the other end. Only to remember that those tube were not cut the right length yet. I hurried up to take them of and remove all the expensive epoxy I used to trow it in the basket. So stupid.

    IMG_2074.JPG

    Tomorrow, I should get the screws for my seat and start mounting its support together.
    • Like Like x 7
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2018
  13. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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    My Motion Simulator:
    DC motor, Arduino, Motion platform, 6DOF
    Coming along nicely :)
    • Agree Agree x 1
  14. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Slowly but nicely... Almost.

    Some gotcha that I got. I have my second actuator and I could not make it work with the SMC3 tool. The tool was hanging and I had to kill it. After a while, I think I found that I had to use specific USB on my laptop so they are fast enough to drive the actuator. After that, I had no more problem.

    Fixing my actuator, I tried to force the screw into the wood. Bad Idea, 2 of them broke into the wood. I had to move everything aside a bit.

    IMG_2079.JPG

    I drilled the holes properly and fix the screw. Since they were a bit on the side, I added some support. I don't know if it helps, but it shouldn't hurt. That's when the screw under the motor got loose. Fortunately, I could unscrew those on the side, turn the bottom a bit and do the fix. I remember now why I don't really like mechanics.

    IMG_2076.JPG

    I was trying to figure out how to attach the actuator to the platform. Not easy to do on your own. I wonder how you people can do it so rapidly. I still need to attach the other actuator, bu my drill just passed out, after almost 25 years of loyal services.

    IMG_2077.JPG

    I think my platform is too big right now. Will have to rework it a bit.

    IMG_2078.JPG
    • Like Like x 2
  15. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Those who are following my posts should know by now that I don't really want to build a 6 dof. It is only an excuse to buy fancy new tools and brag about it. So, when my Makita drill die after ONLY 25 YEARS of bashing and severe treatments (They don't make tools like they used to), it was time to get myself a replacement.

    IMG_2080.JPG

    Now, assembling pieces of woods together is a breeze. I made the platform significantly smaller. I now need to figure out how to attache the seat to it. But, I'm not there yet.

    IMG_2081.JPG

    The anchor system for my actuator is no good. I broke another screw. Probably because it got stuck in the metal part, and one is loose because it is too close from the side of the wood beam. I need to add more holes. Time to see if I can drill those aluminium bases. For now, I'll just add some reinforcements and it will do. I just want to work out some placements and measures.

    IMG_2083.JPG

    With my chair in use, I can no longer site on my ass all day and do nothing.

    IMG_2084.JPG

    Now, what tool could I buy?
    • Like Like x 2
    • Funny Funny x 2
  16. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Seriously love the humor involved in your posts, You've got a real good attitude towards stuff. keep it up Bud, You'll get there eh.:cheers:thumbs:thumbs
    • Agree Agree x 2
  17. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Thanks. Yes, keeping a good attitude and not taking everything too seriously helps a lot. Otherwise, those projects can drain a lot of things: Time, energy and money. The important is to keep them fun.

    Back to the project, this is what is will look like at about the middle of the actuator. At about 44 inchs (112 cm) from the ground. The platform can hold by itself, but I leave the chair for safety.

    IMG_2085.JPG

    The clearance for the batteries looks okay. There is still possibility to give it even more space, but I'll go with this for now.

    IMG_2086.JPG

    The inclination looks good. About 40 to 45 degrees.

    IMG_2088.JPG

    From the inside. This is the first time I get the feeling: Man, I can actually pull this off!

    IMG_2087.JPG

    I tried to drill a little guide hole in the aluminium and I broke the bit inside. So, screw it and I went for the full size hole. It turn out my drill can handle aluminium with ease (shameless brag).

    IMG_2089.JPG
    IMG_2090.JPG

    I should have no more problem with the fixation of the actuators. And I started to put lock tight on the screws at the assembly.
    • Like Like x 2
  18. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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    You really do not need those massive coach screws holding your actuators down. I have 1 inch screws holding mine down
  19. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Hum... This is intriguing. It is true that most of the force is going down. I could shorten my screws.
    Damn, I just bought 24 of those. Straight to the miscellaneous pile,. And I'll need to buy others. Oh well.
  20. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Question:

    I have a lot of noise on my potentiometer signal going up to the Arduino. Do you guys do anything special to reduce that noise?