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What kind of printer do you use?

Discussion in '3D Printing' started by bruce stephen, Feb 12, 2016.

  1. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    ABS isn't as great as it used to be when it was basic PLA VS ABS. PLA has MANY exotic forms now that have proven to be even tougher than ABS in certain circumstances. There's also Very Low Warp or No Warp ABS and Nylons now a days, They just cost a few bucks more.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  2. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Nylon intrigues me. There is a lot of comparison between PLA and ABS, but I have not check much information about Nylon. Maybe it is a better material than ABS? Don't know yet. And if it is only a question of a few bucks, I rather spend more and save a tonne on troubles. I will have to look it up.
  3. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Nylon needs to be dried before printing, Make sure to take that into account before purchasing.

    I have one of these and LOVE it, The difference in Freshly dried Filament Compared to Old Hanging around for months stuff is Amazing.
    http://www.printdry.com/
    [​IMG]
    • Like Like x 3
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2017
  4. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Damn! I want one of these! But it is way to low in my must to have list. I will have to wait until I have done my simulator, rebuild the patio and redone the bathroom. My hopes are low. :(
    • Funny Funny x 2
  5. wrabenda

    wrabenda 2DOF noob

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    I'm running XYZ Davinci 1.0 AIO with Simplify3d to generate g-code. Printed Recaro seat yesterday for my test Arduino rig

    Attached Files:

  6. iceman

    iceman New Member

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    Nylon is very strong, but it also has to be printed at a very high temperature. It also has a tendency to warp. Experimented with it a little while back, but returned to PLA printing.

    It kind of goes without saying, but don't try to print with nylon on a 3D printer designed for PLA or ABS. The required temperature will burn through a lot of materials in the extruder.
  7. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Interesting comment,

    Care to clarify/explain what your trying to say ?
  8. iceman

    iceman New Member

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    Sure thing. Nylon requires temperatures over 240 degrees. A common plastic used in extruders is PEEK. PEEK breaks down over 240 degrees Celsius.

    Most people printing with nylon use an all-metal extruder.

    Things may have changed. This info is from a couple years ago back when I was experimenting.
  9. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Most modern current machines are coming with Full Metal Hot ends like the E3D V6 or above.
  10. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    I could not find the extruder material, but on the manufacturer site, the Hictop 3DP-12 says:
    "It supports to print PLA, ABS, Wood, Flexible, Nylon, Hips."
    And the replacement part proposed are made out of brass.
  11. Mmcool

    Mmcool Member

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    ... ordered!

    I have about 15 spools of all kinds of filament, that i always hold on from opening to avoid humidity get to it.
    • Like Like x 2
  12. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Me, jealous again.

    Ok, printer gurus. Other questions:

    I have succeeded to bring a gear from the web site to Cura (passing by fusion 360), but the gear is upside down. How can I turn it the other way around (in Cura or fusion 360). For me, who's been working in 3D for more than 10 years, not being able to do such a basic thing is outrageously frustrating, to say the least. I'm not even thinking to change any measures, as I am not there yet.

    upside_down.jpg

    Other question. To print with a SD card, what's the pipeline? What is the file format to use? So far, my attempts simply provide me an 'No SD card' result.

    You know good tutorials for Fusion 360? I am all ears!
  13. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Not being a Cura User i cant help you there but in Fusion just click on the body, click "m" on your keyboard and make sure your playing with the Bodies and not a sketch or anything else, Then use the Arrows on the Screen to Flip the part, Save it and then back to Cura, You need a gcode from Cura to load on the SD card, the printer reads gcodes, NOT .stl files.
  14. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Thanks. Works in fusion, but changes nothing in cura.

    When everything fail, read the instructions. :(
  15. Thanos

    Thanos Building the Future one AC Servo at a time... or 6

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    If you click on the part you should see another button appear on bottom left of the screen that has options to rotate the object.


    Best Regards,
    Thanos
  16. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    Thank you so much. It was so simple, no wonder I missed it completely.
    This is what happen when you go to fast, and don't want to make any kind of effort. ;)
  17. SeatTime

    SeatTime Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    AC motor, Motion platform
    I have bitten the bullet and ordered myself a Original Prusea i3 Mk2 (kit)- I know everyone has their favorite, but to me its was not 'too' expensive and just seems to be a very stable system and comes with most of the stuff that everyone ends up fitting later in the cheaper price bracket.
    • Like Like x 2
  18. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Awesome choice, Any MK2 specific question's don't hesitate to ask. :cheers
  19. iceman

    iceman New Member

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    The Prusa is a great printer. It's still part of the reprap project, so that means if you need any replacement parts, they're easy to come by and cheap. I built one a while back and it was a real joy when it finally gets all calibrated and sorted. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

    It's nice to see some of the "old school" 3d printers still alive and kicking. I had this one, a Replicator II, and a Ultimaker.

    The original Ultimaker was a piece of garbage(where mine ended up). Seems they have sorted it out in the current generation. The bowden tube design with the motor pushing the filament from a great distance was half-brained. Had feeding issues from the day I got it.

    The Replicator II still is a great printer to this day. It is unfortunate that the latest iteration has gone totally proprietary with everything.
  20. SeatTime

    SeatTime Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Well the printer is in transit - not the 7 weeks they initially quoted for delivery :). Already have a list of things for it to make for the new sim setup and shell.
    • Like Like x 2