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Showroom 6DOF Build (Bodine Motors, Sabertooth, FlyPT Mover)

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by BondeX, Mar 10, 2016.

  1. BondeX

    BondeX Active Member

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    Here is a test setup I am working on to understand how SMC3 works in conjunction with SimTools. Motors will be mounted in a similar fashion, but with way beefier L brackets.

    I am not happy with what i am using to mount the hall sensor even though it works well. can you guys recommend a sturdier bendable mateiral I can use to form my U bracket. thanks

    Attached Files:

  2. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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  3. BondeX

    BondeX Active Member

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    Thanks @SilentChill, I just need to find something close to what you recommended in US.

    Now since I was able to form these brackets with a pair of pliers as they are flexable, is there a reason to switch to a sturdier material? what I am trying to ask is what approach is better? flexable or sturdier?
  4. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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    I would say sturdy because you are attaching it to the motor itself, if you had it connected to the base/frame of the rig I would use something more flexible
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  5. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    rotate the bracket so that it resides at the bottom where the motor meets the lumber.
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  6. BondeX

    BondeX Active Member

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    @bruce stephen, I see what you mean. I will do that on the actual rig.
  7. BondeX

    BondeX Active Member

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    Alright after spending quite a bit of time on electronics, I finally managed to work on mounting the motors. Took me almost a day... @SilentChill made it look so quick and simple :mad:

    I will have to add a mechanical stop as my motors rotate under load when unpowered.

    1.jpg 4.jpg 3.jpg 5.jpg 6.jpg 2.jpg

    Need advice on whether to choose square or round tubing as a sleeve. The round tube is somewhat of a tight fit and I personally would prefer it.

    Thinking about putting a two nuts on either end to lock in the sleeve and the ball joint. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    @poman, just to let you know, my structure is rigid and I have no play whatsoever. I am using the same ball joints as you.
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  8. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    Square or round tubing will both work, it just depends on your personal preference, just weld a nut to the tubing either end then use a lock nut.
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  9. Pit

    Pit - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Gold Contributor

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    @BondeX great progress, just a hint: the wooden beams will not absorb the noise of the motors, quite the opposite will happen, wood amplifiers sound and vibration.
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  10. BondeX

    BondeX Active Member

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    Thanks @noorbeast, So in that case I will go with the 1/2" Round tubing as shown below. Now the reason I wanted to go with two nuts (Locktite) was to avoid welding as I don't know how to weld and will have to get someone to do it, but if you think I absolutely should weld Nut 1, then I will get it welded.

    Mounting_Rod.jpg

    Thanks @Pit, So If I want to use wood, and don't want the noise, do I need to build it somewhat like @SilentChill and @poman? Can I add a dampening material underneath the L brackets to mitigate the noise issue?
  11. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    I personally prefer the security of welding the nuts either ends with lock nuts.

    If you use the two nuts either end then do keep an eye on them all, as the rods are the critical link.
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  12. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    if you need stuff welded you can bring it by. just IM or text me.
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  13. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    If those are simple 5-6" L brackets from Homedepot or your local reno store, I can almost guarantee those will bend over time. I can bend a 6" L bracket in a vice with my hands....i would HIGHLY suggest you beef up those brackets.
  14. BondeX

    BondeX Active Member

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    @Nick Moxley, while these brackets are quite sturdy, I do think you have a point there. Can you suggest how I can fortify them?
    Last edited: May 17, 2016
  15. BlazinH

    BlazinH Well-Known Member

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    Imo, with your current setup the easiest way would be to fit some wood blocks between the backs of the motors and the L brackets at the back. Then get some large hose clamps and wrap them around the motors and brackets to clamp the blocks in place and support the back end of the motors too.
    • Agree Agree x 1
    Last edited: May 18, 2016
  16. RacingMat

    RacingMat Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    or maybe it's no use...
    what's the problem to be in a "low" position at start or stop?
    none in my opinion: easier to seat, no mechanical stop which could be broken if activate at a wrong moment :)
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  17. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    also a mechanical stop will become a problem if the motor gets away from you. Simple things can cause a motor to take off. Any loose pot connection amongst other reasons. my 2dof rests at about 180 degrees and shoots to about 90 when powered up.
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  18. BondeX

    BondeX Active Member

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    @BlazinH, thats what I had in mind. Will draw it up.

    @RacingMat, @bruce stephen, i dont understand simtools all that well, thats why i was thinking of mechanical stops. Do the motors hold position under load when the sim is fired? Or is it only when a game is running?
  19. bruce stephen

    bruce stephen Hammer doesnt fix it, must be electrical

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    as soon as you power up the ards and monsters. without simtools or smc3 utils running.
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  20. Nick Moxley

    Nick Moxley Well-Known Member

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    Triangles are your friend. A welded on bracket to turn the L brackets into Triangles would help immensely.
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