Different ways to pivot traction loss frame?

I'm going to do a half DIY build using the simxperience universal seat kit. I know it could be done cheaper going the complete DIY route but this works for me. Now to my question. What different ways have people used to make the traction loss pivot, I'm not referring to the motors that make it move but rather how people connect the front of the frame to the support. I'll be building out of 8020 aluminum T-slot profiles would any of the following things work?

8020 Pivot plate

8020 pivot joint

a chair swivel - descriptions read as if you need pressure downward before they spin

A lazy susan swivel much like the chair one but I don't know if they are easier to spin or not.

What else and where can I find it?

Hi

you could use a castor wheel, remove the wheel and bend the wheel mount flange 90 deg

regards Terry

I think people have used lazy susan bearings for that purpose before. @Nick Moxley might be able to give you some insights.

I used a lazy susan on my rig and am currently working with a large 1 1/4" bearing and 4 side castor support for a buddy's rig,

A Chair swivel and lazy susan would be the exact same thing.

And I hope your aware you have to purchase the software on top of the DIY kit Nautica.

I purchased the 150mm motion kit as well w/software. I plan on using it and the simtools software depending on the game. The front end and RT loss component they sell just wasn't going to fit all of my needs so I'm going a hybrid route on this one.

gotcha, good luck with the project and I look forward to seeing some pics once you get started.

Bonjour,
Personnellement j'utilise une rotule de pivot inférieur avant de Renault Mégane. N'importe quel rotule de pivot de suspension automobile peut faire l'affaire, neuve ou d'occasion. C'est économique et facile à adapter.

Hello,
I personally use a lower pivot ball before Renault Megane. Any automotive suspension ball joint pivot can do the trick, new or used. It is economical and easy to adapt.

Je ne le pense pas, certes ce n'est pas de la dérive pure mais nous somme très loin du lacet.
avec plus d'un mêtre de rayon et 15cm de déplacement latéral du siège ?
Le 2DOF sera juste devant les roues de trottinette.



I do not think so, certainly not of pure drift but we are very far from the lace.
with over a radius of mêtre and seat lateral displacement of 15cm ?
The 2DOF be front wheel scooter.

En fait dans ce cas il s'agit surtout de dérive du train arrière. En cas de glissade avant ça devrait être moins perceptible.

In fact in this case it is mainly drift the rear axle. If slip before it should be less noticeable.

hello i had success with lady suzan . However i had to fiddle with height by adding plywood...

I believe a small rubber wheel swivel would do also . just remove the rubber wheel and use the bearing. Use 90 degree brackets at the holes where the center of the rubber wheel attach. If interested i may post pics

i used that idea to attach the rear traction loss (3rd) actuator for a smooth left and right motion when the rod of the actuator pushes the upper frame from the fixed bottom frame

Oui une photographie nous intéresse !
Yes photograph matters!

Hi guys ... I think a Flange bearing ... is a very promising alternative for all the pivot point even under the seat ...
They could be used instead of the U-joints too ...

I have a question which I don't think has been discussed as much as the other aspects of traction loss. I was about to cut my frame to prep for welding and this question stopped me in my tracks.

How far forward or how close is the ideal place for the front pivot/bearing?
Some people have it under the pedals, some further forward. Is there an optimal distance for real feeling, or for speed and control of the motor and levers?
And I suppose this would apply to the mounting of the wheels and motor as well. Motor under the seat, wheels on the back? or motor and lever at the back and wheels under the seat?
I have 25:1 gearboxes so I haven't quite decided on the lever configuration yet.

Right around your feet, or very slightly forward. Essentially to emulate the Pivot point off the front end.

So Somewhere near where the driveshafts would be in a car if possible?
I'll see what I can measure up later.

For Space reason's, make it as long as your top frame....No sense having a 10' long traction loss table and a 6' long rig.