Tutorial 3D Vision works with (probably) any XYZ active shutter glasses

Some months ago I bought VIVITEK DLP active shutter glasses and the NVNDIA 3D Vision shutter glasses. 3D Vision = Nvidia shutter glasses and 3D TVPlay = XYZ shutter glasses like the VIVITEk one's (the latter no surround or triple displays!)

By accident I got the VIVITEK shutter glasses working in combination with the emitter of NVIDIA. To do so, you have to start any program as usual as a 3D application, before 3D VISION has to be enabled in the NVIDIA panel. Now the emitter sends his signal as usual to the glasses. Any active non NVIDIA shutter glasses do not work due to the "wrong" signal, only the NVIDIA 3D VISION glasses will do so.

Continuing you cover the emitter or disconnect the USB cable from the emitter after you started the program (or a game like AC ). After that you have to enable the DLP feature of the projectors or display for which the glasses should have to be compatible. If done, the XYZ glasses (in my case the VIVITEK glasses) will begin to shutter. The synchronization signal is now generated by the projector or display to synchronize the glasses.

The very best: the glasses of VIVTEK (sorry I have to say that and I am not a dealer of VIVTEK or anything else) do not flicker, are much brighter, have a better contrast and better colors than the NVIDIA glasses. Surprise! At least NVIDIA 3D surround works with any active shutter glasses.

PS: a little bit elaborate, but NVIDIA restricts so extremely so that we need to bypass it.

To use Nvidia's 3d vision you must connect its emitter to your pc via usb. This is to ensure you can't use Nvidia's 3d software drivers unless you purchase their 3d kit first (or at least have an Nvidia emitter). The emitter also has a sync cable that is usually attached to the sync signal of your 3d viewing device. However, DLP's are unique in the fact that they are fast enough to send a flash to the screen along with the video that acts as the sync signal. Therefore DLP projectors that use this method don't need a sync cable (however my DLP televisions do have a sync output). DLP shutter glasses are designed to work with the sync flash from a DLP where Nvidia's glasses sync using an infrared signal driven by the sync cable. These glasses operate on different wavelengths so I'm not sure why you need to cover Nvidia's emitter to use your DLP link glasses. But, whatever the case, once you get Nvidia's 3d drivers working by hooking up its emitter, it should be able to send out stereoscopic data to a DLP.

Btw, another hack that can sometimes be done to fool Nvidia's 3d vision into working with an unsupported device is to change the edid of your monitor or projector to one that Nvidia's 3d vision does support! This is risky though as you could brick your device if all doesn't go right!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extended_display_identification_data

When the emitter is sending, no zapper, remote control or anything else can be used or can send any signals (interference of the emitter). That is the reason of unplugging (after starting the program...)

Yeah in deed, the EDID of a certified display is one way to bypass the access routine check of the driver. On the other hand in most cases you wont brick your device, if the signal is out of range the projector or display shuts down.

I’m a little confused @Pit. When the input sync cable is not being used on Nvidia’s emitter, are you saying it is still sending out a sync signal that is causing you interference? I would think with no input sync signal that there could be no output sync signal either. But I guess Nvidia’s emitter sends a signal out also that corresponds with DLP links flash on the screen when you are using a DLP projector because I just ran across this thread about it. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3...jector-nvidia-3d-vision-dlp-link-glasses.html
This thread also explains I think why your DLP link glasses look better than the Nvidia glasses when using DLP link.

For the record, I have never tried to write my own edid, but I did use one I found on the Internet on my 2009 hdmi 1.4 Samsung lcd tv. It was there it was stated that it could possibly brick your tv but maybe they were just covering their ars. It worked for me without issue though. I used it because, after Samsung discontinued making DLP televisions in 2008, they decided to make their 2009 3d lcd tv’s compatible with DLP 3d. DLP’s use what is call checkerboard format for 3d and is usually unique to DLP’s but they decided to emulate it on their lcd sets for backward compatibility. The problem for me though was I wanted to use my Samsung lcd for 3d with Nvidia’s DLP settings giving me a full 1080p resolution at 60Hz for each eye (120Hz total). But the standard for hdmi changed to 1.4 on my 2009 set. The hdmi 1.4 standard for 3d is set at 24Hz so Nvidia’s 3d vision would only let me select 3dtv Play's 720p @24Hz. So I changed my edid to make my tv look like an older 2008 Samsung plasma using the 1.3 hdmi standard. Now Nvidia’s 3d vision will let me select the resolution I want. In the end is was all for nothing however. The lcd’s used on my tv are way to slow to function properly at 120Hz so, while I did have full resolution 3d @60Hz per eye, it was with very bad ghosting of images making it un-enjoyable. I suppose that is at least one of the reasons the hdmi 1.4 standard is set at 24Hz since that is still fast enough for viewing movies, etc. But it sure stinks for gaming!

No this has not been said by me
3D Vision use infrared light to control the toggling of the glasses. If the emitter is ON, all remote controls or other glasses in the room are out of any order due to the interference of the signal. So you have to cut the USB connection of the emitter or you have to cover it. When the emitter is OFF, the display has to take over the synchronization of the glasses (3D -> DLP -> ON), and against all the odds it works perfectly.
NVIDIA driver does not shut down the program if the emitter is OFF, but if you quit the game without connecting the emitter before, the driver goes back to checkerboard.
BTW If you use 3DTV Play and you turn your head, the picture is going to be deformed. Not so using 3D Vision. A very big disadvantage of 3 display is the different synchronization, every display has to be adjusted using the right sync (normal, reverse). However if Oculus CV1 is available 3D Vision will be outdated.

@Pit, if the emitter needs to be unplugged or covered to prevent interference with other inferred devices in the same room then that means it is sending out something or there would be no interference in the first place. I just didn’t think that Nvidia’s emitter would be able to send out a sync signal to it’s glasses without receiving a sync signal from the display device first thru the emitters sync cable. But when using DLP Link displays apparently it will since DLP Link doesn’t require a separate emitter or use an output sync signal to work. Since DLP Link’s sync signal is included in the video, Nvidia’s drivers must know the timing necessary in order to keep sync with it thru their emitter too. However, I read that DLP link glasses are unable to decipher between left eye and right eye data so there is a 50/50 chance that the left and right eyes will be out of phase requiring you to enable, disable, and re-enable 3d until the images are in phase unless your have a 3d resync option on your projector. When using a display that outputs a 3d sync signal for use with Nvidia's emitter this is not an issue when using Nvidia shutter glasses.

To avoid any confusion I had to edit the headline (3D Vision works [DELETED]emitter[/DELETED] with (probably) any XYZ active shutter glasses) because as written above in the OP (NVIDIA 3D surround/vision works with any active shutter glasses), the emitter does never communicate with any non nvidia glasses, apart from this has never been claimed in any case.
Basically we are talking the same language. Thank you @BlazinH for the supplementary details! This is a DIY community and all unusual solution processes are our passion